ATW4470TQ0 Admiral Washer - Instructions

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

just like video showed really helpfull

I removed the back of the washer, removed the old water inlet syphon, replaced it with the new one, and, with some difficulty, replaced the back of the washer, reattaching all of the parts to it.

I did the repairs after watching a few videos on this web site and it covered everything I needed. Went well and the parts were perfect.

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

Ordered part PS3408149 from partselect.com. Lifted Washer control panel with putty knife. Removed hinges (regular screwdriver, used as a crowbar rather than screwdriver) holding control panel to washer body. Moved washer body panel out of the way, and reviewed level sensor/level selector switch. Take handle off front of selector switch. Twist selector switch off from inside (90 degree turn till square inset lines up withsquare hole, then it will come out). Insert new selector switch. Remove old tubing. Fish new tubing through where old tubing was. Cut off extra tubing, then push tubing onto selector switch and tub basin (where old tubing was). Put washer back together. Done. Worked perfectly.

The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.

I disconnect power from wall outlets. Turn off pipes and remove water hoses from machine. Clear machine making room to operate.
I removed two Phillip head screws from behind the console, press down lightly on console then flipped it back. Disconnect the lid switch by releasing the plastic clip. Used a screwdriver to release the 2 metal holding clips (one on each side on top of machine. Ease the case up slightly then pull back gaining access to the centrifugal switch which is mounted to the motor with one Phillip head screw. One end of switch was broken and disconnected. Motor was not keeping up. Discharged capacitor by grounding the terminals with an insulated plyers. Lift the clip on the broken switch then pull the connector off. With new switch in hand, remove each of the 5 wires from the old switch by using a needle nose pliers one by one and connect them to the new switch making sure each one is properly secured in please. Connect the new switch to the motor using the single screw. Secure the connector to switch. Replace case by tilting back about 45 degrees, slide under front frame of machine all the way then down inplace. Use the two metal clips to secure frame to rear panel. Reconnect lid switch. Return machine to usual spot, reconnect water hoses, turn pipes on make sure there are no leaks. Plug back into wall outlet. Washer was tried and all cycles were completed.

I first watched a YouTube video on how to open up the machine. It was a breeze. I removed the part the hose attaches to where the water comes out and into the tub. The hardest part was removing the old hose clamps. Had I known I would have used new clamps. I took off old hose and replaced with the new one, it took longer because of the clamp issue. Otherwise it went fairly easy, to my surprise. Even tho I am a 70 yr old woman I will try to fix what I can. Doing this saved me at least $600. For a new washing machine. I'm so proud of myself.

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.