ATG180VNCW0 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

After unsuccessfully trying to change the blown light bulb I discovered that the plastic light socket had gotten so hot that it melted and permanently fused with the blown bulb. After my new socket arrived in the mail I just popped the temp control assembly out with a screw driver and removed the old socket and placed the new one in. Whole operation to 5 minutes.

I wrote down the Brand and model# of my refrigerator. googled it and PartSelect came up. I mean it literally took me 5 minutes to select the part, and order it! I ordered it on a Saturday and the part arrived on Tuesday! And it was a perfect fit! I will always return to PartSelect for any replacement parts for my appliances! Thank you!

Door would not stay closed so I decided to replace the gasket... The new gasket install was easy and quick. I removed the liner and took off the old gasket, placed the new gasket on the liner and reinstalled the liner. However that did not fix the original issue of the door not closing. I followed all the instructions listed on the web site but none corrected the problem. The door on this model has no adjustment. So I adjusted the leveling wheels to tilt off center towards the back. That helped but still did not resolve the problem... I then closed the door slowly to see if it was being interfered with, As it turns out it was being hit by the bottom of the inside of the refrigerator. Since I could not adjust the door, I used the front leveling wheels to compensate for the lack of door adjustment. I slowly kept adjusting the w heels to see what effect it had. I finally adjusted them to the point were the door now closes and seals on its own. I’m guessing that over time the liner became malformed and caused the door to hit the inside of the refrigerator. After it started working I checked the level side to side and front to back. Side to side is good and there is a slight tilt to the rear.

First, I unplugged the appliance. Safety, first.
Than I removed the shield which was held in by screws. This covered the fan, thermometer.
The defrost thermostat was taken out, with a little extra force. The wires on the defective part were no longer attached to the part. The instructions were easy to follow in replacing the defrost thermostat. I stripped the coating on the wire, attached it with the enclosed electical bugs. The assy was able to follow, and the part went back on. The refrigerator is working perfectly. I couldn't have done it without the help in diagnosing the problem and with the speedy delivery of the new part. Thanks for all your help and the ease of the installing the new part!

Removed the old drawer. Put the front on the drawer which ws a little tricky but with the help of a screw driver to gently pry the drawer the front went on easy.
Put the drawer in the refrigerator.

Just like that.

The BIG problem was getting the old drip pan off. The bolt on top of the compressor was too long to allow the removal of the old drip pan. I removed the old drip pan by cutting most of it away with tin shears then cutting the remaining part of the pan around the bolt with a hack saw (taking care not to damage freon lines and raising the pan above the threads of the bolt so as not to damage the threads). I still had to cut half the bolt away with a hack saw by replacing the nut and cutting a third of the bolt away (above the nut), so the new pan would fit. Putting the new pan on was a breeze after that. It may be easier to just cut the bolt off altogether on top of the compressor and use the wire clips per the instructions supplied with the kit to install the new one.

Simple switch repair: Unplug fridge, pull down to remove switch assembly, slip contacts off. Reverse with replacement switch. HOWEVER, check first to see if the bulb filament might be broken, as this could cause the same symptom. OR in my case, the light socket connection was the culprit. Check that too before ordering a replacement switch.

Removed old gasket. tried to mount new gasket with a few screws, but weight of new gasket created a sag, so I removed door and laid on a table. Installed new gasket, as it layed flat and square on the table. Installation became a simple job.

ordered the glass and installed it

Twisted replacement bulb into place easily. Let there be light!

Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers.
My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring.
Success! My coils no longer freeze up.
Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.

Removed old thermostat and replaced. really easy.

First I let the gasket lay flat on a hard surface in the sun for several hours. Then I removed old gasket and placed new gasket in place and utilized some glue substance to hold it in place.
Easy enough--hope refrigerator will be more energy efficient

First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.

tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.