ATF6000FS2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Followed the youtube video step by step. Very helpful video. Be careful of hinge screws. They are very easy to strip. Had to buy a special tool to remove stripped screws. Advice go ahead and purchase the 4 screws. 3 for the hinge and 1 for spare. Rest of the repair was easy. Less than an hour to complete.

My 10 yr old son removed the two screws, placed the new strike on, and screwed it back into place!! So easy a child did it!!

First, I recommend you have a second pair of hands. The chrome door is quite heavy. Using Phillips screwdriver I removed the screws that attached the door to the frame. I had a helper hold the door while I removed the screws.
Once hinge screws were removed I put a towel down on a counter to keep the front of the door from getting marked up and proceeded to remove all of the screws around the back of the door so that I could lift the frame up enough to remove the broken hinge and insert the new hinge. It was a bit tricky to get the new hinge with bushings in place. I gently lifted the frame up with a flat head screw driver to widen the opening so I could get the bushings on the new hinge into position on the frame. Make sure they are properly inserted before you start tightening up screws.
Next, replaced all the screws on the frame, returned to the washing machine with helper who held the door up while I aligned the holes in the new hinge to the holes in the frame around the opening to the washer.
After everything was secured and tightened, to my surprise, the door latch did NOT line up with catch without lifting up about a 1/4" or a little more, on the bottom of the door. If someone slams the door without doing that you could break off part of the plastic latch or damage the catch inside the door frame.
I believe the original holes on the door frame were not drilled precisely during the manufacturing process and that is why the bottom bushing broke. We have always had to lift up a bit on the door to line up the latch with the catch. Eventually the strain on the bottom bushing caused it to break and then the door tilted down so you had to lift it up about 3/4 inch to latch it. I bought new hinge because if the top bushing broke the door could have come off.
Next time I buy a washing machine, I will pay more attention to the line up of the door latch with the door catch.
Flashlight helped me line up the holes.

I had called a repair man; and fortunately he never returned my call. After reading many of the reviews involved with the same problem, and wanting to use my washer, I decided it was easy enough to give it a try. And so it was. 2 screws in back removed the cover; and 2 screws in the front of the washer permitted the removal of the affected part. Removed three "plugs" from old; put them on the new part; replaced it back in the washer, and replaced the two front screws, which held it in place. Replaced top, securing with the two screws. And surprise - surprise -- the washing machine was working again! Your reviews were so helpful and encouraging --- that this really old lady decided to try it --- and like they all said "It was really easy to fix."

PartSelect had the part in stock, shipped that day. The part was delivered the next day, my wife had it installed and working when I got home from work.

-Unplug machine and remove all water connections
-Remove back panel with power phillips screwdriver
-Removed some rectangular circuit box in the way of getting to one shock absorber (3 screws)
-Remove old shock absorbers with 1/2 inch socket (suggested in accompanying directions)- this took 2 minutes
-inserted new shocks as directed...this was the most difficult part, but used a hammer to bang into place.
-reinsert and screw down circuit box (or whatever it was)
-reattach back panel
-reestablish water hose connections
-plugged in and was in business
-had ordered a washer/dryer set for $1700 (at my parent's urging) and now can tell Sears to go pound sand!

After accidentally dropping a crystal clock (don't ask) near the open door of the front-loading washer, the plastic striker broke and couldn't be repaired. Without this part being functional, the washer won't start because the door can't be secured.

I ordered the new part, and it arrived quickly -- that's really the story here.

Replacing it meant removing two screws, pulling the damaged part off, slapping the new part in, and replacing the screws. My 4th grade daughter could have done this one -- wish they were all that easy!

I'm glad the part came so quickly. With a local supplier, it would have taken four more days.

By unscrew the washer Machine door off' then place the door flat surface and start to unscrewed each screw carefully keep all the screws together then remove the broken glass that you don't cut yourself in a safe place, then place the New glass back on & replaced all the screws back on tightly once all the screws back in then replaced it back on to the washer Machine, make sure you pre-test your washer Machine for no leaks.

Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.

I started with a Phillips head Screw driver and removed the screws from the current Door strike and replaced with a new one. To replace the Door Lock and switch assembly I had to access the right portion of the door gasket which was a little tricky, as it has a wire ring around the gasket to keep it in position. It has never been removed so it was fairly stuck so I took some pliers to pull on the gasket and ring to loosen it up. Once I got it off I was able to remove the Gasket just enough to access the electrical components to the Switch assembly. I loosened the screws on the current switch assembly using a Phillips head screw driver and removed it through the access point then unplugged the current wiring harness from the switch assembly and plugged the new switch assembly in. Then I tightened up the screws on the new switch assembly. re attaching the gasket was possibly the most time consuming as there is a metal lip on the door itself that the gasket has to wrap around in order to re attach the metal ring and hold everything in place. I took a flat head screw driver and ran it along the edges of the metal lip while pulling the gasket to secure it around the lip then I wrapped the metal around the gasket to secure it to the metal lip in the door ( Note: the metal ring has a spring that should be positioned at the bottom of the door once it's installed correctly, you will notice the gasket is shaped at the bottom to allow for the spring) Once I completed that I made sure all screws where tightened and then checked the unit to be sure it worked properly. It is working perfectly and no more error message.

Despite putting all the information about my washer in the order, I received a dispenser drawer that was similar to the one I needed, but would not fit. It was also a slightly different color than the original part on my machine, so obviously someone just threw it in a box and sent it to me. It wasn’t even wrapped in plastic! Just the part in a box, no instructions, no bill of sale, nothing. When I needed to return it because it wasn’t the proper part, I HAD TO PAY THE $10.00 TO SHIP IT BACK!!! Really poor customer service in my opinion. Hopefully I will at least get a credit for the incorrect part that I had to pay to return.

(1) Removed top of washer . (2) Open washer door . (3) Removed the two screws holding the Door Lock Sw while holding the switch from inside the machine . (4) Lifted the switch up to remove wire harness one wire at a time and reconnect to new switch . Double checked work and reinstalled switch . (5) Run washer machine make sure everything is back working . I need to add that the washer door needed to be adjusted . The bottom of the door was kicked out . Washer is now working .

Took the old one off and snapped in the new one.

Turned circuit Off at breaker panel Extracted metal seal ring from tumbler seal,loosened/extracted 2 screws holding assembly,pulled 2 wires,Reversed sequence with New lock assembly,made sure tumbler seal was seated securely,turned breaker on,tested,Complete!

This part did not fully solve the problem because both halves of the door need to be replaced and the other half is neither included in this purchase or available on this web site that I can see. The door panel is thin plastic and the problem will reoccur. Removed door by removing the metal hinge screws, disassembled door, installed new part, reinstalled door.