AT21EM9FV Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

I removed control knobs and a couple of screws and forced the assembly down enough to remove the old thermostat, and insert the new one. Lucky me it was a identical replacement item. Job took about an hour.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Remove the back hardboard cover screws for access to the condenser fan. I opted to tip the fridge over on its side for even better access to the fan mounts and wire. Replaced the fan assy (reused the fan). Splice the wire and it's done.

My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!

First I removed the Ice bin, I then loosened the ice bin rail under the ice maker and removed the screw that attached the bottom of the ice maker to the side of the fridge. I unplugged the power to Ice Maker from the back of the fridge and unscreewed the two screws that secured the ice maker to the fridge. This allowed the Ice Maker to be removed from the fridge. To replace the new ice maker I simply repeated the steps in reverse.

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

Water was dripping out of top freezer door and had water under the refridgerator. I could hear a clicking noice from bottom of refrigerator every 3-5 minutes.
After removing back panel, I noticed the fan was running and the clicking seemed to be coming from somewhere around the compressor which was warm. I noticed on the site a simular problem had been submitted. It said to remove the start relay and if it rattled it was bad. I removed two wires from it ( it is connected onto the side of the compressor) then took a small screw driver to pry it away from the compressor. It not only rattled but had tiny pieces falling out. I ordered the part and replaced it in less than 15 minutes total and all is well.

Turned off power to Refrigerator.
1)Removed broken light switch, using a screwdriver, to gently pry it out. Then unlugged the switch from the connector. I used long nosed pliers to gently pull out the connector from inside the frig, so I could easily plug in the new light switch. I then pressed the new light switch back in place.
2) Remove light cover. I then unclipped the socket which holds the light bulb, I gently pulled it out and unplugged it from the two wires. I then attached the two wires onto the new light socket and clipped it back in place. Bingo done with both items practically no time!

The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

First you must unplug the refrigerator, then remove the top hinge and freezer door, then you must remove the middle hinge to remove the refrigerator door, after that there are 4 screws located in the refrigerator compartment that must be removed that are holding the plastic control knob trim in place. When you remove these screws and drop the trim piece you can unplug the wiring on it, to completly remove it, next right above the plastic trim previously removed there is a metal trim with 3 screws holding it in place they will be removed now. Now you need to remove all of the shelving in the freezer compartment these pieces will just snap out , at the lower left and right sides of the freezer compartment there are two plastic tips that are attached to the main plastic body of this compartment they will need to be snapped out from behind the metal body of the refrigerator this can be done with a flat head screwdriver. Now pull straight out on the plastic body and it should come out , this will expose an insulating cover over the freezer coil where the defrost heater is located,if this is covered with ice you will need a heat gun which is a overgrown hair dryer basically. To melt the ice you will have to remove a insulating cover that is located behind the previously removed front metal trim it will come out by gently snapping it out of place, use caution during this step so not to break the cover in half. This will expose the front of the freezer coil and you can now use the heat gun to melt the ice, keep a check on the drain pan beneath the refrigerator as it will have to be emptied depending on the amount of ice build up. As the ice melts it should release the top cover of the coil and this will lift out of place also again use caution when removing the cover. With the coil exposed melt the remaining ice, if you look in the coil you will see the defrost heater, if the glass tube on the heater is broken please use extreme caution so you will not get cut by it , now you can unplug each wire from each side of the heater you may need a pair of pliers for this. when the wires are unplugged you can now lift out the bad heater again use caution if the glass is broken. There is a gaurd over the heater that will have to be removed by sliding it off the end wires when you have this off, slide it over the wires on the new element, now gently install the new heater back in the coil reconnect the 2 end wires and make sure they are connected good. you can now assemble all of the covers and parts in the reverse order you removed them, when assenbly is complete plug the refrigerator back in and in about three hours or so you should here the fan and compressor stop and the unit should go into a defrost cycle during this you should here the water running to the drain pan as it melts.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

pull the fridge out away from the wall and hope you have a long flex water supply hose.remove cardboard cover,oh yea unplug fridge first.unplug wire from the relay.flip the wire retainer off the relay and pry it away from the compressor.pull the 2 prong capacitor off and then reverse the steps to reasemble. skip the middle man at the local appliance shop.i waited 2 weeks for him to get the part and gave up.your reg shipping got it here in 2 days.