ARGS7650SS (P1130764NSS) Amana Range - Instructions

No tools were needed; the old burner bowls were taken out and replaced with the new burner bowls. I would like to say the service was great from PartSelect. com. I was so happy I was able to find replacement bowls for my older drop-in range that I ordered a second set to keep for future use. PartSelect.com sent the replacement bowls quickly, and the order was processed very efficiently. Thank you!

Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.

1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.
2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.
3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.

Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.

4. Put everthing back in opposite order.

Get to the ignitor:
Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.
Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.
Remove screws that hold the ignitor.
I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.

Unplugging the ignitor:
Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.
Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.

I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,
Remove bottom drawer from oven,
Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,
Disconnect old ignighter connection,
Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,
Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plate
Remove baffle plate,
Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,
Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

Removed all four burners
Removed top
Found the clock assembly
Plastic frame that holds clock in place is cracked in several places.
Removed cracked frame by removing two of the four screws(2 broken plastic screw holders)
Removed 2 piece clip holding clock with 3 of 6 broken insert clips
Trying to order just plastic frame.
If not possble will have to order entire clock assembly which is a much greater exspense
Redo removal procedure

This is the second time I have had to call a repair person to GE the old screws off. It isn't the fault of the part. Better original screws would have helped. It was very frustrating an expensive. I would say check the screws before you order the part.

After reading previous posts regarding this type of problem, I determined the very high likelyhood that the over ignitor needed to be replaced. Accessing the underneath of the oven compartment, I removed the metal shield covering the ignitor wires in order to unplug the ignitor. (Be sure to disconnect power cord first)
From inside of the oven compartment remove the flame spreader plate ( 1-screw) which gives access to the ignitor. Remove the three screws holding the ignitor bracket and pull the wire and plug through. That's it !!
Installation of the new ignitor is the reverse of the above proceedure.
Oven now functions normally again.
A very simple repair.

removed 2 screws on each burner and disconnened wire . replaced module so the top of range had to be lifted. Shut powder to unit. removed wires one at atime and connected to the new module, then reinstalled wires and screws to burners. very simple task

This was VERY easy and I've never worked on this type of appliance before.

First, take off the grate, thermal plate, etc that are resting on top of the stove (this is all the stuff you take off to clean the stovetop).

Then, carefully unscrew the two screws holding the burner to the gas pipe. Grab the screws and set them aside so they don't fall back into the stove, then pick the burner up off the stove.

once you have the burner a few inches above the stove surface, wiggle off the single wire by grabbing it on the metal part (not by the wire) and gently wiggling it off.

Grab new burner, push on wire and sit it on stove, use a finger in the gas pipe to align it and put the two screws in. you're done.

I read on this site about someone who had my same problem. He ordered and installed a new spark ignition module and after installation the stove worked fine. So I ordered a part # PS2034431 Spark Ignition Module for my Amana stove. I installed it, and it worked just fine, really for the first time since I bought the stove new. Oh well...
Taking the stove apart took a bit of study to find how to get it right, and the clothes pins were to keep the wires from slipping back through the stove top as I was putting it back on before actually hooking up the piezo units. The instructions that came with the spark igniter were pretty useless (not wrong, just useless), but carefull notes while taking the bad unit out and where each wire went made the replacement rather easy. The really tough part was removal of the burners - the small screws had deteriorated over the last 7 years, so I had to drill two of them out. I replaced all of them with stainless steel screws. This cost an hour of my time plus a trip to the hardware store.
But as I said... the stove now works fine really for the first time. Way to go, Amana!
I trust this igniter will last a lifetime.
And certainly, reading about the same problem I had and easily finding the part was a welcome treat on this site.

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I removed the two screws and pryed out the old hinge. I then put in the new hinge. The new one fit well. I went to screw it in with the supplied screws. The screws not only did not fit the hole tapped in the hinge (too big, different tread) but both screws were different from each other. They were different sizes and different types all together. I tried re-using the screws from the originol hinge but they also did not fit. I then got my own self tapping machine screws and finished the job. This job should not have been that hard. If they had supplied the correct screws, It would have taken all of five minutes.