ARG7302WW (P1143337NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

First we removed the oven doors. Then removed the shelf that separates the oven from the broiler, giving us more room to work. At first we thought we needed to loosen the screws around the bracket holding the ignitor, but we realized that the burner needed to be removed. Lifting the burner up from the front gave us the room to pull it gently from the back of the oven wall, giving more room to pull the wires connected to the ignitor from the back of the oven wall out and then disconnecting them. Then carefully pulling the ignitor out of the bracket.

Putting the new ignitor in was easy. Carefully sliding it into the bracket, not touching the ceramic piece, connected the electric wires, pushed the wires back into the hole in the back of the oven. Then placing the burner back into place.

We then turned on the gas and the electricity and the ignitor glowed and the burner lit. PERFECT! In the past we've had a repair man come in and this time we saved $100. Even more perfect.

Replace the dual gas valve assembly for both the broiler and oven by removing the lower drawer. Then removing the drawer's right side sliding bar, and turning off the gas at the input to the valve assembly (a small part between the valve assembly and the inlet gas tube). Then unscrew the two outlet gas tubes and the gas inlet shut off assemble. Then remove the holding brackets to remove the valve assembly. I found that when the new gas valve was replaced, if the oven still does not turn on, you have to adjust the gas outletto the oven by using an allen wrench inserted into the opening of the outlet valve of the valve assembly. It has to be done several times at small incremental turns (about a 1/4 turn at a time) to get the right amount of gas flow and have it completely shut off when the oven is turned off. I found this out by taking the old valve apart of see how it works.

Bought new igniter based on advice from other stories here. Didn't test the impedance. The igniter glowed, but the oven wouldn't start.

1. Removed single nut on flame pan & remove pan.
2. Removed Pan drawer and disconnected plug to igniter.
3. Removed 3 screws holding igniter in place.

Note: the screws were corroded & one stripped in removal - you may want to purchase the metal housing for the igniter assuming it comes with new screws.

4. Put everthing back in opposite order.

Get to the ignitor:
Open oven, clean out the crude, and remove the bottom pan to get to the gas parts.
Remove the nut to get the flame sheild off.
Remove screws that hold the ignitor.
I stripped one and had to pry it off with a strait slot screw driver while turning it with a phillips.

Unplugging the ignitor:
Pull out the drawer. Removed the 2 panels under the stove to access the ignitor plug.
Replace the ignitor and reverse the procedure.

I did remove about 20 screws and the main pan at the bottom of the inside of the oven, but it didn't help me do anything, so don't make the mistake that i made with that.

Regarding my right side oven door hinge replacement, P/N PS2172201

After reading that other people had trouble threading the screws into the new hinge, I looked at the drilled mounting holes in the new hinge. Neither hole was threaded. The smaller hole used a self tapping sheet metal screw which works fine. The larger hole gets a machine screw and will not self tap. Since the instructions say put the screw in "once" to tap the holes before installing the hinge, I tried this. It doesn't work, regardless of what the instructions say. The larger hole should come from the manufacture threaded. I do have a tap and die set so I tapped the hole myself. After that, the installation is a 5 min. ordeal.

Take the two screws, one on each side, out that hold the oven door on the hinges. The door will then pull straight off the hinges. Take the storage drawer below the oven out. Unscrew the top and bottom hinge screws and pull the old hinge out from inside at the bottom. Put the new "threaded" hinge into position and hold from the bottom, inside. Screw in the two screws, large one on the top end, and put the door back on. You can open both hinges about 30 degrees to allow the door to slide back on the hinges easily. Put the last two screws in that hold the door to the hinges and you are done.

Really very easy and saved several hundred dollars in repair bills. I might add that my hinge arrived on time 3 or 4 days after the order was placed.

Unplug oven cord from wall receptical,
Remove bottom drawer from oven,
Remove sheet metal plate from rear of oven to gain access to the ignighter connection,
Disconnect old ignighter connection,
Removed the pan on the bottom of the inside of the oven,
Removed the hex nut on the top of baffle plate
Remove baffle plate,
Remove (2) screws holding ignighter in place,
Replace the ignighter and all other commponnents in reverse order

I removed the back of the control panel and the disconnected the control circuit board. There wires and one plug and the new board was in. The most difficult part was removing the stick on display label without tearing it. In 20 minutes we used it for dinner. Parts came very quickly and the repair was simple. Thanks

i disconnected the power supply, took all shelves out of oven, removed screw that holds the bunner to oven, removed bunner along with igniter. cut wires to igniter wired new igniter , tested before
installing bunner,( ok) installed bunner and screw
fired up and all is well.

was so each, we removed the door and the racks. and the bottom drawer out. All we had to do was remove the ignitor that was held in wtih screws we could read the wires from the bottom of the oven and then put the new one in and attached the wires from the bottom. We had read reviews of others that did the same repair and were confident that we could do it because they described it and said it was so easy. Thanks everyone.

removed 2 screws on each burner and disconnened wire . replaced module so the top of range had to be lifted. Shut powder to unit. removed wires one at atime and connected to the new module, then reinstalled wires and screws to burners. very simple task

After reading previous posts regarding this type of problem, I determined the very high likelyhood that the over ignitor needed to be replaced. Accessing the underneath of the oven compartment, I removed the metal shield covering the ignitor wires in order to unplug the ignitor. (Be sure to disconnect power cord first)
From inside of the oven compartment remove the flame spreader plate ( 1-screw) which gives access to the ignitor. Remove the three screws holding the ignitor bracket and pull the wire and plug through. That's it !!
Installation of the new ignitor is the reverse of the above proceedure.
Oven now functions normally again.
A very simple repair.

First I removed the back panel (6 screws) you can clearly see the part ,removed 4 screws that hold the clock unit in place.disconnected the wires.removed the plastic film on the old part,cleaned it,stuck it back on the new one.reconnect 5 wires.done.part was shipped very quick and i saved about 100$

This was VERY easy and I've never worked on this type of appliance before.

First, take off the grate, thermal plate, etc that are resting on top of the stove (this is all the stuff you take off to clean the stovetop).

Then, carefully unscrew the two screws holding the burner to the gas pipe. Grab the screws and set them aside so they don't fall back into the stove, then pick the burner up off the stove.

once you have the burner a few inches above the stove surface, wiggle off the single wire by grabbing it on the metal part (not by the wire) and gently wiggling it off.

Grab new burner, push on wire and sit it on stove, use a finger in the gas pipe to align it and put the two screws in. you're done.

opened up the oven to locate the position of igniter

disconnected igniter and checked the continuity of the igniter to find that I had an open circuit

once I found out the igniter was no good I google for appliance parts and found parts select had the best prices that I could find. I called a couple local parts stores and there prices were definately inflated. I chose to go with parts.select.com
I receive the part in two days! I installed the new part within 15 minutes and turn on the oven to have it light almost instantly. I won much praise from my wife. Parts.select.com recieves my praise for ease and quickness of part delivery.

I read on this site about someone who had my same problem. He ordered and installed a new spark ignition module and after installation the stove worked fine. So I ordered a part # PS2034431 Spark Ignition Module for my Amana stove. I installed it, and it worked just fine, really for the first time since I bought the stove new. Oh well...
Taking the stove apart took a bit of study to find how to get it right, and the clothes pins were to keep the wires from slipping back through the stove top as I was putting it back on before actually hooking up the piezo units. The instructions that came with the spark igniter were pretty useless (not wrong, just useless), but carefull notes while taking the bad unit out and where each wire went made the replacement rather easy. The really tough part was removal of the burners - the small screws had deteriorated over the last 7 years, so I had to drill two of them out. I replaced all of them with stainless steel screws. This cost an hour of my time plus a trip to the hardware store.
But as I said... the stove now works fine really for the first time. Way to go, Amana!
I trust this igniter will last a lifetime.
And certainly, reading about the same problem I had and easily finding the part was a welcome treat on this site.