AMV5164AAS - Instructions

My part arrived the next day. That was a surprise to receive it that quick.
I removed the lower panel to gain access to the motor. Disconected the 2 electrical leads and removed the 2 screws that held the motor in position. Installed the new motor, reconnected the leads and reinstalled the lower panel. It was a very easy reapair. I took all of 10 minutes to complete.
I will definately use Parts Select the next time I need a repair part for any appliance.
Great service

Removed 6 screws from bottom cover and 2 from motor cover. Unplugged motor and installed new motor. Plugged in new, Installed cover. Done

change light bulbs

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

Read the troubleshooting section on this site. Figured it was an interlock problem because the food was not getting hot (magentron not turning on) and the carousel was not turning. Did not think both the carousel motor and magnetron failed at same time, thus indicated an interlock problem. The interlock switches are actuated by the door latch. Replaced the assembly locker piece with all three switches (only a $20 dollar part) and microwave was fully operational again. Wife and kids think I am a hero.

Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.

Turn off power supply at breaker . Replace old bulb with new bulb .

We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.

Opened Box and Replaced Part......No Problem!

screwed in new bulb

Turned it round till the part slid into place on the shaft. Expect a snug fit.

ordered a new tray

Replaced entire door latch assembly with the three micro switches. Easier to replace entire latch assembly as individual switches do not remove easily from latch assembly. Had trouble removing front panel assembly. Parts ordered solved this problem.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Unplugged the microwave. I opened the door. I used a butter knife to pop the bezel off the inside of the door. I pushed the locker up and to the left and used the butter knife to pry it loose. Disconnected the locker from the spring, and reversed for the installation.