ALE866SBW (PALE866SBW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.

Squeling from inside dryer. To Fix-
Pry dryer top cover off by popping cover off the two fastening clips located at about 3" inward from the two front corners. A screw driver at these two locations is easily inserted between the top cover and front panel.
Next remove the two screws on the top inside of the driver approximate size 5/16 inch. Pull the top of the front panel outward and then note how the lower portion clips into the fram, lift the front panel off the clips and roll it to the right. Remove the 4 screws and bulkhead.
Draw a picture of how the belt wraps around the drum and idler. Also note the belt orienation on the drum. Roll the belt off the idler pully and reomve the drum.
Replaced Idler asembly by first removing the tension spring and lastly the retaining bolt.
Reinstall everything in reverse order. Can be a bit tough getting the belt around the idler and motor pulley however this is managable. My machine runs great now!
Once again Parts Select comes through with great delivery, perfect fit, good pricing, accurate parts list. This is my third purchase and I have been 100% pleased. By far the best on line service I have ever experienced.

Dryer drum stopped but all other elements seemed functional; couldn't afford new dryer. Unplugged appliance & moved it to my garage (more room to move about). Undid base plate w/tools and found belt slack - identified broken idler pully wheel as part to fix. Went online & found part-select, located part & was way happy: $7.00 part + $7.00 shipping; got part 3 days later. Removed broken pully wheel (take off lock-washer, put wheel on, reinstall lock washer). Cleaned out venting elements (huge lint-ball & some sand in blower intake area). Re-attahced base. Back on-line to see "replace dryer belt" instruction sequence; opened lid of machine (while verticle) and positioned belt properly. Located access port (sealed) at base, knocked out the circular metal plate so I could reach in & thread the dryer belt back around motor & idler pulley wheel. Did test spin (manually) to make sure belt properly threaded, in place. Move appliance back to proper location, plugged in & hooked up venting to outside; ran test & SUCCESS!!!! It even seemed to dry better because of the now cleaned venting area. Labor cost = $0, Part cost < $15.00, Time (actual work) bit over 3 hours total.

I just inserted the door catch, which by the way fit in perfectly. Thanks. Took 5 seconds to repair.

I removed the dryer front and the drum, then disconnected the wires from the dryer motor and removed it from the motor mount, after installing the new motor in the motor mount the rest was just putting the dryer back together the same way I took it apart, the best way to do this is to print out the diagram from partsselect.com and follow it step by step, this was so easy everybody can do this and save alot of money for the labor and the parts mark-up, try it you all can do it (SO EASY)

I first thought the drum rollers were the source and replaced those. It took me 60 minutes to get the dryer disassembled and wires labeled for reassembly the first time. Knowing how to do it for this repair made everything go quicker.
I removed the tension from the belt by pulling it away from the spring and then slipped the belt off the motor. I then removed the drum from the dryer to get to the idler arm assy.
The trickest part of this repair was putting a box wrench on the nut on the motor side of the frame. I found a 3/8" box wrench with an angled handle that worked well. I then used a 7/16" socket on the other side of the idler arm base and removed the bolt. I was careful to note the position of the tension spring so that I could put it back together correctly. I then put the new idler arm assy in place with the bolt through the frame but had some trouble keeping the nut in the box wrench. I ended up using a bit of chewing gum to keep the nut in the box wrench long enough to get it threaded!

From there it was a cinch - just put the belt back around the drum, the idler wheel and then pulled up on the arm while I slipped the belt over the motor. No more screeching!

When on the sensor dry setting, the clothes would not get dry, but would get dry on the timed dry setting. So good heat and rotating drum.

We first cleaned the moisture sensor inside the door, located on the vent screen. Once clean, we ran again. It still did not function. We checked the vent and piping for obstructions and all was clear.

From there, we took off the upper panel where the moisture sensor connect to the sensor control board. Used a continuity meter to determine if the signal was getting from the sensor to the board. With the sensor on a low setting, we ran a wet cloth across the sensor and we had continuity from the sensor to the board.

At that point, we replaced the board. It had to sets of wires connected to it, that snapped out easily and it smply snapped out of its position. The new board went into position as easily as the old came out. Reconnected the wire harnesses and re-assembled the upper covers.

Once re-assembled, we ran a load and it cycled as it should.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Remove front pannel
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts

1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.

I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

I am not mechanical so if I can do it so can. UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST!There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer itself remove these and take out the brackets that are held by these two bolts, I used a socket, lift up and peek in to the front top you will see two screws that hold the other side of the top of the dryer lower the back side and move to the front of the dryer now that the back bolts are removed. Take a large screwdriver and place a dishrag or handkerchief so the flat side is inserted where these screws are located{preventing scratches}pry upward it will seperate the top of the dryer from the front of the dryer move over to the next screw and repeat now the top is loose and can be slid backwards until there is room for you to see down in front of the dryer, notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side, take the time to write down there color and in what order they are located as you will have to remove these now inside the front panel from the top about a third of the way are two bolts, one on the left and one on the right use the socket to remove these now pull the front panel to you and lift up, the front panel will now come off set aside. remove the three screws that attach the plastic vent from inside the dryer,pull out plastic vent, vacuum out dust and lint install new plastic vent install the three screws from inside the dryer drum and reverse the process you are finished!

Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

I inserted the clip

Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.