AK2H35HR (P1171804S) Amana Cooktop - Instructions

1. Open the circuit breaker feeding the range. Turn all range control switches ON to establish that there is no power. Remove all knobs.
2. Get under the range and remove the 2 hex-head screws securing the flex conduit to the bottom panel. Then remove the 20 hex-head screws securing the panel to the range. Lower the panel and place aside, and then after checking for no voltage disconnect the red and black incoming wires by pulling on the spade connectors. Make sure you mark which wire went where.
3. From below apply pressure to the range frame to free the top surface gasket from collected food debris, then from above lift our the range and place upside down on a towel. Support the range with wooden blocks so that the unit is not resting on the knob shafts.
4. The control switches are all mounted on a common bracket with two screws for each switch. The first task is to remove two screws on each side holding the bracket to the frame, and then two wire harnesses on each side. Then gently move the bracket and rotate it sidewards so you have access to the screws holding down the switches.
5. Remove the defective switch leaving all the wires still connected.
6. Install the new switch and transfer the wires from the defective switch.
7. You're done, now restore everything in reverse, just make sure all wires move freely and not pinched.

This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time saver is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore

1. Turned off the 240V branch circuit to the cooktop.
2. Removed and inverted the cooktop.
3. Removed the bottom panel, used 1/4-inch nut driver to remove the sheet metal screws.
4. Confirmed the circuit was de-energized. Voltmeter set to AC, measure across the L1, L2 connections, should be 0 VAC or very close.
5. Make a diagram of the existing connections to the controls to be replaced, note all control markings (L1, L2, H1, H2, PL) as the replacement controls have connectors in different locations.
6. Remove the AC Mains plate, 2 sheet metal screws.
7. Make a diagram of the primary AC distribution blocks.
8. Remove the AC Mains input leads, Red and Black.
9. Remove the AC distribution to the controls from the primary AC distribution blocks. Needed to free up the control panel.
10. Remove the 4 sheet metal screws holding the control panel.
11. Rotate the control panel to access the screws holding the controls. Caution on the wires to the heating elements, watch for pinching.
12. Remove one control with the wires attached.
13. Install the replacement control. Secure the screws.
14. Transfer the wires, matching the connection marking (L1, L2, H1, H2, PL) exactly.
15. Do the same (12, 13, 14) with the next control.
16. Re-install the control panel. Check all wires for clearance.
17. Re-connect the control wiring to the AC primary distribution blocks.
18. Re-connect the AC mains wiring to the primary AC distribution blocks.
19. Re-install the AC mains plate.
20. Visually check all the connections. Shake out any debris.
21. Replace the bottom cover, installing all screws.
22. Remove the gasket strip from the mounting lip, clean the surface, install new gasket (weather stripping).
23. Re-mount the cook top.
24. Energize the 240VAC branch circuit.
25. Test the controls. Correct any errors.
26. Done! Go have some hot tea! (or a beer)

Opened the Cooktop. Hardest part was removing the cooktop.
The heating element was broken, very hard to see.

Remove 2 clips and install in new element. Great oppurtunity to clean the unit.

This is a slide-in range, so I:
1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the range. The range is hard-wired, so can't just be unplugged. I determined the clock on the range went off.
2. Removed 4 screws holding the front control panel to the cooktop. Removed 2 screws from each side panel into the cooktop. Removed 4 screws from the rear panel holding the cooktop.
3. With my assistant (my wife) lifted the cooktop and tilted it so that I could access the underside.
4. Used an iPad to take photos from several angles of the wire connections from each burner control. Printed the one showing the connections on the dual burner control.
5. Removed the 4 screws holding the sheet metal support for the dual burner and one of the other burners. Released the spring steel retainers holding the dual burner. Removed the burner.
6. Used the iPad again to take photos of the connections to the dual burner, and printed it.
7. Removed all the wire connections to the burner. Checked continuity from the center (common) terminal to each of the other terminals. Determined that in fact the inside coil was open (burned out).
8. Removed the two screws holding the spring clip retainers on the old burner. Matched the old and new burners to determine where the spring clips should go. Drilled 2 small holes in the base of the new burner and screwed the clips from the old burner on the new one.
9. Now the tricky part: The new burner didn't have the exact same limiter and heat sensor probe as the old one. After several false starts, we were able to barely make out the terminal letter/number designations on the control and match them to the same letter/numbers on the new burner. It required a magnifier and a strong flashlight to read these engraved markings.
10. Made the connections on the burner. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to carefully pull the connections off the spade terminals, and attch them on the new burner.
11. Mounted the burner to the sheet metal support using the spring clips previously installed.
12. Re-attached the 4 screws holding the burner support to the cooktop.
13. Carefully replaced the cooktop onto the range, paying special attention to not pinching any of the wires, and making sure all the wires, from all the burners were still connected.
14. Replaced all 12 screws holding the cooktop to the range.
15. Turned on the power, and checked all burners, including the new one, to see if they were opetating properly. YAY! They all worked!

It must be noted that we had to call a repairman to troubleshoot our installation the first time. We had reversed two of the wires to the new burner, because of the difference between the old and the new limiter connections. The engraved markings in the porcelain were very difficult to see. The instructions that came with the new burner never addressed this issue, and instead had very confusing (and worthless) instructions about replacing the limiter from the old burner to the new on. (This was not possible, anyway).

After the repairman left, we discovered the front burner that had been working, no longer was. With our newfound experience, we repeated the previous steps to take the range apart and discovered one of the wires had become disconnected from that burner. We re-connected it, re-attached the cooktop, and everything worked.

One telltale indicator that we had mixed up the connections on the burner, was the red "hot' warning light on the range top came on as soon as we restored power, even though no burners had been on. I should mention that the dual burner "worked" a couple of times even with the reversed connections, but then failed to work any more.

Replaced them.

none

Thanks for the previous viewer's tip, disconnect power, pushed the cook top out of the counter and used a wood block for the support. Unscrew the smooth top from the burner, remove old and plug in the new one. Connect power, test OK. Put everything back.

Replaced the old knobs with the new ones.

Removed top of stove replaced heating element ,piece of cake.

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.