ADB2500AWW Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed two bottom plates (two screws on each) Then I pulled dishwasher out about six inches. That's as far as it would go because I did not disconnect the water and drain hoses. That was enough to remove the broken cable and collect the disabled spring. I then reattached the new cable to the spring and reworked them into position. NOTE: There is a right and left cable and spring set-up. I used the "good" side as a guide. I then pushed the dishwasher back into place and replaced the two bottom plates.

first i removed the back of the dish washer door and determined the handle was broke.went online with you with model number and looked at the parts breakdown. ordered the latch assy,however the latch assy i ordered did not come with the handle,reordered handle and got latch assy and handle and it was cheaper--go figure! you guys were great! received ra# for part to return asap and i'am very pleased! thankyou for your great service! i will tell others about your service! again thanks!

Unfortunatly if the plasic handle breaks you will need to purchase the handle/latch assy. However it comes complete with the interlock switches so it made the repair quite simple. . . Removal of the inner door panel also releases the handle/latch assy. Unplug the interlock sws. And install the new hanle/latch assy. While putting the inner door panel back in place. . . Clean up the mess you made and it's done. . . 1/2 To 3/4 of an hour and part of that is rounding up the tools you. . .

I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.

Not a bad repair once you diagnose the problem. Took me three tries to figure it out. Just make sure you follow the instructions. I used an allen wrench to hold the motor in place while tightening the part onto the motor shaft, this way I didn't have to remove and flip the dishwasher to do the repair. The good news is the replacement part I needed was metal instead of plastic, thus I should never have this problem again. I don't understand why it was plastic in the first place but all of my appliance problems seem to be made to fail after several years of service.
Repair was

There was a tear in the fine filter (fabric) on the accumulator. This can be seen by looking in dishwasher without having to disassemble anything. Food was being sucked in and sprayed back out on dishes.

Disassembled, cleaned, replaced part then reassembled.

Cleaned out the spinning sprayers -- used toothpicks to clean out holes, flushed with water.

Cleaned out under the accumulator.

Works like new.

I pulled the dishwasher out from under the countertop. It was quit easy to get to in the lower left front corner of the appliance. I loosened up the bracket that was holding the valve in place. Removed the wires, and taped and ID them so that I would know which one went where. Removed the hose clamp, pulled the hose off and removed the old valve. Put the new one back in just as I removed the old one in the same order. It was a snap! This is not the first time I have used PartSelect! Our evaporate fan went out on our refrigerator a couple years ago, replaced that. A shelf broke in our refrigerator twice, each one different at different times bought both from Part Select. This is the first place I look for help with repairs! I at least attempt to save money, then if it's too difficult I will hire a repairman. So Far, PartSelect has saved me a lot of money on doing it myself! Thanks PartSelect for making small repairs easy to tackle yourself, along with reasonable prices for parts!

First I opened the breaker on the dishwasher removing power from the unit. Then I removed the Torx head screws on the cover on the back side of the front door. Then I pulled off the stainless steel sheet metal panel which exposed the door latch. Then I unplugged the electrical connectors to the two micro switches on the assembly, next I plugged in the connectors on the new latch assembly and postioned the latch back on the mounting holes. Replaced the stainless steel sheet metal and put the screws back.

The big problem is that you cannot purchase the wheels only. I found that out after ordering the rack track because that looked like what I needed. But it didn't come with the wheels. So I returned it. Then I went to the basement and found things in my junk boxes and fixed it without purchasing the complete parts. Cost: 10 cents for two nuts vs $60 for the required parts.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

after reading a article on problems the logic one was frist the door. Order the part ,took off the inter panel with star slot (10)exposed the handle and switch. Removed it, abit hard at frist,then replacement went in easy , the washer worked.
I guess I was lucky because on the other side of handle similar type of part thats maytag for you.

Difficulty was primarily because there were no instructions for the procedure so trial and error. I suggest: 1) Turn off power circut to the dishwasher. Then remove the star headed screws on the panel with door open and this separates the interior plastic door liner from the exterior door panel 2) remove the 4 screws inside the door that are the final fasteners for the exterior panel and the metal brace 3) bottom of the old door panel is curled and needs to be bent back slightly at the bottom 2 corners with a screw driver or pliers so the old panel can be removed by sliding the panel upward past corner brace while being careful with the electrical connections 4) once the old panel is removed the new one can be slid down the door arms and the interior screws attached 5) finally install the star head screws holding the interior panel and the new exterior panel. Restore electrical power and enjoy the new look of the ss panel.

took screws our of side trim and top trim, decreased height on leveler legs and pulled dishwasher from the cabinet, replaced cables and springs from both sides on the door, lubed door hinges cleaned everything under dishwasher re-inserted and re-installed trim screws. took around an hour with clean up.

We took out old racks and installed the new ones. On another note, after ordering (or trying to order) parts from appliances older than 10 years old several times, I think manufacturers stop making parts after 10 years. So if you're thinking of replacing a part on an older appliance, try to look for it sooner than later.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.