ACO1560AB - Instructions

removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.

Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.

I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to catch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.

The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.

I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me.
The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.

took cover off, installed bulb.
lost the owners manual,
part select's schematics were very helpful
thanks

new glass tray

Had to remove door. Next pop off the plastic trim around door. Remove spring holding latch place new latch and afix it to the door frame

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

Make sure to have your model number correct. First tray I purchased I didn't use the model number and just picked what I thought would work (KitchenAid), but didn't. Second attempt I put in the model number and received the correct one. Take out of the box and into the oven, that easy.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Replaced bulb by: 1 pulling plug on microwave to make sure not hot - no power; 2 used needle nose pliers with head part about same size that fit inside of socket; 3 opened pliers and held firm against broken metal part; keeping pressure of pliers against broken metal part of light bulb, slowly unscrewed the broken part from socket using firmly held opened pliers. The rest was a cinch...just screwed in new light bulb, plugged in microwave and viola - there was light once again.

Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor.
Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.)
Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place.
It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!

It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.

Just removed and replaced by putting the new turntable and glass in, 1, 2, 3; that's it. I'm so thankful for this site because I would have had to buy a whole new microwave. Thanks a million!