ACM2160AS - Instructions

1. I went to the internet to find the service manual for the Maytag microwave.
2. I opened up the oven and started measuring the resistance of the diode, capacitor, transformer, and magnetron between terminals and then to ground. The transformer and magnetron were well within the resistance limits. The diode was shorted in both directions(+-). The capacitor was fully open in both directions -- high resistance.
3. I ordered the 2 parts, installed them, and ran the oven. Worked perfect first time.
4. Reinstalled oven and worked ever since (1 week so far).
5. The secret was that the transformer had a load hum. I figured the transformer was OK. The magnetron had no short between filaments and ground to filaments. The only two left were the diode and capacitor. The first two are about $200 -- almost the value of a new microwave. The $70 repair was well worth it. If the first two were still bad, then tempted to buy a new oven.

Remove top grille (2 screws), undo control panel (1 screw). Tilt down control panel, switches are on the left. There are actually three switches that are involved with the door, two horizontally mounted, one vertically mounted. This would be an EASY REPAIR, but it took me a while to figure out which of the three switches was bad, and also took a while to figure out that there is a plastic rod that inserts through the hole in the switch body. Once i figured this out went like a breeze. Lower horizontal switch was the bad one, but since the kit came with two switches i went ahead and replaced the upper horizontal one as well. IT appears that the horizontal switches are probably more likely to fail than the vertical switch based on the position of the switch and force angles. Works great now!

The repair went well...I am so glad that I read this info before buying a new microwave....it saved me lots of money. I did have a repair man come and look at it and he told me to buy a new one but it cost alot of money when it wasn't necessary. I did the repair and I was very proud of myself.
Three men watched a woman fix this and it was no problem...they were impressed also....

My 8 year old daughter cleaned the inside of the microwave with enough water to rival a tsunami. Resulted in a clean microwave with a fried out motor that no longer revolved. Part came quickly. Took cover and bottom off to get to the part. One screw held it on and a plug. Removed those, put on new part and she was good to go. No trip to home depot today.

I looked up the #1 reason for no heat for my microwave on the site , and using my model number found that 92% of the time it was the Black Sleeve Diode. Ordered the $15 part, and installed it within 30 minutes. Most of the time was used for removing the built in microwave and removing the cover. Replaced the diode by finding it on the diagram that I printed from this site (free). Very relieved that we don't need to have our custom cabinetry re-sized to accommodate a new microwave. Thank you!

Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.

After determined the problem on one of the websites...I received the part I needed... removed the control panel and installed the new main fuse In about 15 mins!

Used needle nose to pull off piece of old ring. Layed in new one.

I removed the unit from the wall. Took the cover off. Set the unit on its side. It revealed the working parts. Removed the old micro switches. Put in the new oness. Presto, it worked. Very easy for me.
The parts was delivered almost before my notice they were shipped.

Problem would come and go. Found service schematic inside unit. Perform all the suggested tests. One possible solution was the primary interlock switch shown on the schematic and a check found the switch stuck. It would free up some times but would stick again in the open position. Ordered switch which was a simple plug in unit.

Found instruction on internet,
1. Remove anit-tampering screws with punch and hammer
2. Remove the rest of the screws
3. Removed cover
4. Remove burned out bulb and installed new one
5. INstalled cover
6. Installed screws including the anti tampering onces
7. Op tested unit.
Wife is happy.

1. Removed cabinet screws (10-15?). 2. Removed cabinet. 3. Removed top interlock switch which actually was not defective. The press clip connection appeared as if it had been arcing for quite some time and the corrosion created resistance sufficient to prevent the current from getting through the switch. 4. Replaced switch anyway but broke plastic retaining clip despite every effort not to do so. Reset broken clip with super glue. 5. Reassembled cabinet and appliance is in good working condition.

Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor.
Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.)
Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place.
It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!

This had to be the easiest repair job on record. When the new glass tray for the inside of the microwave came from you, I just took out the old chipped one, tossed it in the trash and then washed and dried the new one and set it inside on the turntable rollers.

DONE in less than 60 seconds. I wash and dry FAST.

Thanks for having a web site that was so easy to find the replacement part.

Over the stove microwave installed in top cabinet row.
1. Unplug device.
2. Two people to remove from wall/cabinet (remove two, large, top mounting screws and rotate entire microwave down and off the wall mount). Should be some wood spacers between top of device and bottom of cabinet.
3. Remove screws from sheet metal cover.
4. Remove one screw holding blowers in place and rotate out of the way, in order to gain access to 2 of 5 screws that hold the magnetron in place.
5. Unplug magnetron and remove the 5 screws.
6. Drop in new magnetron and re-assemble microwave in reverse order (steps 5-3).
7. Two people restore micro to wall/cabinet. Replace wood spacers, re-install two, large mounting screws (finger-tight). Test device. Secure the two large screws.