AAV4200AWA Admiral Washer - Instructions

First I tipped the washing machine onto its front. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine. Then I removed the screws that held the cover in place on the back of the machine. Next I removed the two hoses that were connected to the vertical pump using pliers to pinch the clamps. I then removed three screws that held the vertical pump in place. I took the new verticle pump with pulley and mounted it to the washer and putting the washer machine back together using the previous steps in reverse order.

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Removed excess water,removed hoses,tiped back washer,removed belt,removed pulley and bearing. Removed 3 screws and replaced with 3 longer screws in the stator,then removed 3 shorter screws. Then loosen very slowly each of longer screws to relieve pressure from the brake spring. Once loose,pulled out brake rotor. Replaced with new parts. Works like new.

I felt extremely confident when purchasing the part because I say three diagrams which clearly showed I was ordering the correct part. 0. Drain all of the water out of the machine. 1. Remove the rear panel from the washer. 2. Use the pliers to disconnect the hoses from the pump. 3. Remove the three screwa from the old pump. 4. Support the washer with the block then take the belt off pulley. 5. Remove old pump. 6. put new pump in place then reconnect the pulley, you can remove the block.. 7. Install the three screws for the pump after you tighten it up by placing the pump over ther correct screw holes.. 8. Reconnect the two hoses using the clamps you removed. 9. Secure the rear panel and screw in place. 10. Wash clothes. EASY FIX!!!

The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!

Removed the front panel, Removed the belt from pump in the back of machine. Removed the pump from the back of machine, Put the pump in reconnected the belt, Replaced all the screws. My husband did the repair work in a matter of 45 minutes. Machine works fine now. The part came when I was told it would. I am very pleased with your service.

Took a screwdriver and pried up the top of washer, then reached in and unscrewed the front two screws that allowed the front to be lifted off.
Removed two screws on lower right side that allowed us to pry open right side of washer. There are six springs along the bottom of washer that keep the tub stable and keep it from bouncing against sides while in spin mode. One of the springs broke and needed to be replaced. Off course it was the one that was in the far back and the hardest to get too. But by prying open the right side it was reachable. The wife pushed against the tub to make the spring stretch a little less but still was too difficult. We took the advice of another home repair guy and put quarters in the spring (about $1.75 worth) to make it stretch out, then it was simple to connect the two ends, remove the quarters and voila....it was done. Screwed theright side back on, but the minimum order on the springs was six and the others seemed fine, we just put the other five inside the washer cabinet, replaced the front panel, reset the clamps on top of the front panel, slammed the top down and we were back in business. The parts including shipping was a little over $10.00. So I am sure we saved at least $140 repair job.

Disassembly
- Took the back bottom plate off.
- Removed hoses.
- Removed pump with pulley (3 nut screws)
- Removed belt

Installed new parts
- Installed pump with pulley (3 screws)
- Installed belt by placing on 2 small pulleys, then turning onto the large pulley (used a screwdriver to help align over pulley for leverage).
- Replaced hoses
- Replaced back plate.

For safety I Unplugged the machine
Tipped machine back and removed the belt. Rotated the motor by hand and all is well there. Rotated the water pump by hand and a grinding sound appeared. I Let the machine down . Using a hard object , 1/16th of an inch thick, I slide it between the front edge of the lid and the front panel unlocking the clips ( one on the right side and one on the left side ) holding the lid down. I then tipped the lid up and removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Lifted the front panel off of the clips on the bottom end of panel. Using a nut driver I removed the 3 bolts holding the pump to the frame. Then with a pliers I removed the clips holding the 2 hoses. With a pan to catch the water I removed the hoses and drained them into the pan.
I then took my machine model number and went to the internet in search of a new water pump. After checking several sites with no success, I come upon the site for PartSelect.Com. With the excellent search method on the site I was able to quickly find the part I needed. I placed my order (10pm) on a Tuesday night and a short time later I received an email letting me know they had my order. On Wednesday I received an email letting me know they had shipped my order. On Friday the order had arrived.
I removed the new pump from the box and inspected it . Every thing looks great. I placed the pump into its mount on machine and bolted it down. Attached the 2 hoses, put the front panel back on and tipped the top down into place. Pushed machine into place, plugged it in and fired it up. I now have a quiet running machine again. Thank You to PartSelect.com for the quick response to my

tip washer up on wooden blocks.remove drive belt.remove "E" clip from tub drive pulley and remove all the parts.Install new parts in kit as per instructions.machine works great!

I was able to get the belt off easily but the belt was fine. I changed the snubber easily also. But that wasn't the problem. I went through all the parts that are easy enough to change without a mechanic but turned out it was something inside the innerbasket and we had to junk the washer and it was only 4 yrs old.

Removed the waterlines. Set the ends in a small pan or bucket to catch the water.Do the same with the drain line.
Keep an old towell handy as water will drain out of the drain pump when you remove the drain hose. Removed the back panel. Use a flat bladed screw driver to pop the top off the two clips in front holding the top down. Lift the top and pull the two screws which holds the front in place. Remove the front and set aside. Underneath, use gloves and the screw driver to remove the six springs by placing the screwdriver through the top hook end about an inch and with both hands lift the spring off. Carefull not to let the blade slip off and bust your knuckles on something,hence the gloves. Lean the machine over and walk the belt off the pulley. Disconnect the small tube in the back left corner from the drum and lift the unit out from the top. Set the drum on it's top and loosen the six screws under the big pulley just enough to pull the snubber out. Replace new snubber, tighten screws. Set drum back in place and reattach springs. Lean unit over and replace belt. Reconnect the small tube, back left corner. Replace the front panel and top. Connect the drain line and replace the rear panel. Connect waterlines and check for leaks. I went ahead and replaced all springs. I recommend replacing the belt while your at it. I'm wishing I would have. It runs like new, gets more water out on the spin cycle and the dryer dosn't take as long to dry the clothes.

Open the top of the washing machine by using a putty knife to release the latches at the right and left side. Prop up the top so it doesn't fall while working.
Remove the inlet hoses and put in bucket to catch water.
Remove the two screws that hold the inlet valve in place.
Remove the wires from the inlet valve. (One of the spade connectors one wire broke and I had to replace it.) I used needle nose pliers to pull the spade connectors off.
Remove the outlet hose.
Throw out old valve assembly.
Attach hose to new valve assembly. (My old valve assy outlet was slightly smaller in diameter than the new valve, but I was able to get the outlet hose to stretch enough to fit--couldn't use old spring clamp though, but new valve came with a hose clamp--worked fine.)
Attach wires same way as they cam off old valve.
Position and use the two screws to screw assy back into back of washing machine. (The screws had to tap the holes on the valve, so start out a little hard.)
Reattach the inlet hoses and check for leaks.
I also ran both the hot and cold in a cycle and the reraised the top to check for any leaks internal to the machine.
Pus the top back down to engage its fastening clips.
Job done.
My washing machine is 23 years old.

I decided to replace the entire agitator. The Dispenser, Agitator, and the screw had already come off when it broke. All I had to do was pull/slide the base off the motor. Then I slid the new base in place, slid the agitator on top of the base. I then screwed in the retention screw (which was probably the hardest part due to the small access). After that I snapped on the Softener Dispenser and I was done.