AAV4200AGW Admiral Washer - Instructions

shut off supply lines, remove cover on back of washer, remove drain hose from pump,inlet and exit. remove belt underneath washer from pump. remove 3 assembly screws. remove pump. set new pump in place. rescrew pump to washer. reatach inlet and exit hoses to pump put belt back on under washer put cover back on back of washer. turn supply flines back on. should work like new

..First I sought the source of the water leak, by removing the louvered panel on the rear (4 nut headed screws hold it in place) and observed for water leaks during a wash cycle. This required that I re-position the washer and route the fill and drain hoses in order to stand behind the washer during its cycle to observe through the rear panel opening.

...There was no visible leakage of any of the hoses or connections but I could see the water puddle on the floor was coming from under the water pump located in the front corner.

...I wasn't able to peel the sides off the washer. I disconnected the rear hoses for hot and cold water and the drain hose. I removed the plate on the rear that orients the drain hose.

...I tilted the washer 90 degrees to its front using 2 x 4's to cushion the front so the machine would not be scratched.

....I removed the drive belt underneath. It was easy to remove by hand and did not require loosening screws on any of the pulleys.

...I disconnected the black exhaust hose from the tub with a screw driver and the white drain outlet hose with water pump pliers.

...I then reached into the front corner of the machine through the opening in the back and removed the water pump which is held in place by 3 nut head screws. I used a ratchet set to do this.

...I observed the water pump which is almost all molded plastic. The bushing area in the center attached to the impeller appeared to be wet and rusted. I assumed this to be the source of the water leak. I found the replacement on line at PartSelect site and ordered it. It was much cheaper at PartSelect then other sites.

....When the replacement pump arrived 2 days later , I compared it to the pump I removed. It matched physically including the pulley so then I installed it and re-assembled the washing machine in the reverse order from disassembly.

...I left the louvered panel off and observed the water flow for leaks during the first wash after re-assembly.

...There were no internal leaks and no puddling on the floor, so I replaced the louvered panel and put the washing machine back in place.

The water pump was a bit noisy during the 1st load
but otherwise the machine ran well. After the 1st load the pump is quiet and the machine runs just as it did before the puddling occurred. It is fine.

After having done this I can say, it was uncomfortable and cramped to reach in through the rear panel opening to remove and replace the water pump. But I could not find a way to lift the top of the machine easily so I could removed the side panels to have better access to the water pump and hoses. If anyone knows a way to do that without unplugging and removing the electronics panel, that would be useful information. Please post it.

It can be done the way I described here because I did it, but that may not be the easiest way if the side panels can be easily removed it would probably be an easier repair.

Unplugged Machine, Turned Off Water, Disconnected water and drain hoses. Let water run from hoses ino bucket.
Removed back plate where drain hose goes into back of machine. Used pliers to close the clamp holding to drain hose to remove it. I stuffed the exposed water pump opening with towels to keep water from spilling.
At this point I leaned the machine over on its front so the back of the machine was facing skyward. I placed a towel over the motor in case water spilled it would not get on the electrical components. I removed the belt on the bottom of the machine from the water pumps pully. I then removed the three screws mounting the pump to the bottom of the machine. I disconnected the other hose from the water pump that comes from the wash tank with the pliers. Once disconnected I stuffed the ends of both with towels to keep water from leaking out.
I took the new pump and connected the hose from the washer tub with pliers, mounted the pump back to the bottom of the tub with the three screws, replaced the belt, and reconnected the drain hose, and took the towel off the motor. I then replaced the back plate and set the machine upright. I connected all the hoses back up and plugged it in. It worked great. If you spill water on the motor you can dry it with a hair dryer.

First I popped the lid up to about 70 degrees. Then removed the two hinges. Then removed and replaced the two hinge pins. The key is to then just start the two screws for the hinges, slip the pins in and then tighten the hinge screws. Total time was 5 minutes.

Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.

Turned off water suply. Removed drain (pipe is short). Then slid washer out so I could tilt it back and work under the washer. I put a wood brace under the front of the washer for safety. I then followed the instructions that came with the parts.

After examining the diagrams online, I removed the 3 screws holding on the back panel. Nothing seemed wrong so I tilted the machine to look underneath at the belt. All seemed OK but manually moving the belt by hand revealed that where the belt drives the pump had worn loose and was the source of the problem. Reading other descriptions of the ease of replacement of the pump, I ordered the new pump. It took approximately 15 minutes to remove the old pump and 10 minute to install the new pump and replace the belt. The machine is back to working fine. This is a fairly simple repair.

Remove the access panel at the back of the machine. Locate the Motor Pivot Spring. It is about the same diameter as a coat hanger and is attached to the motor and the motor base. I was able to remove the old spring and install the new spring with my fingers. When removing the old spring, remove the motor end first, then the motor base end. When installing the new spring, attach the motor base end first, then the motor end.

Opened the front panel by using a flathead screwdriver (to pop the top lid up) and socket wrench (to loosen the front panel off). I then had to reach in and replace the missing/broken suspension spring. The spring was very difficult to extend so I used coins to lodge into the spring to elongate it. After the spring coils were loaded and held apart with coins (nickels and quarters) the spring could be installed using a pliers for leverage. The washer doesn't make the loud banging noise anymore!

I used a putty knife to disengage the clips that attach the top of the washer to the front panel. The top will lay back without having to hold it however, I didn't trust it to stay up on it's own so I used a bungy cord and straped it onto a wire rack that hangs on the wall above my washer. Next I removed the two screws, one on each side, located on the inside of the front panel near the top of it. Then I gently pulled the front panel towards myself so that I could lift it off of the clips located at the bottom of the panel. The pump assembly is located at the front right corner inside of the washer. I disconnected the two hoses that run to the pump assembly and using my ratchet, I removed the 3 screws that hold the pump assembly in place. There is a belt on the bottom of the washer that goes around three pulleys, one of which is the pump assembly pulley. After I removed the pump assembly, I took the belt and laid it to the side. I then installed the new pump assembly. After I put everything back together, I gently tipped the washer over on it's side as far as I could and reinstalled the belt around all three pulleys. I started with the pulley on the left side and then the pulley in the middle and finally, the pump assembly pulley. I have washed a total of seven loads of laundry since I did the repair and have had no problems.

I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.

Ok, let's do this thing.

MAGIC TOOLS:
5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.

1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.

2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.

3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.

4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.

5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.

6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!

7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.

8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.

Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless!
reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!

Opened the top of the washing machine, removed the two screws and the front cover removed the agitater, drum and outer tub. replaced the bearing and seals and reassembled.

These gaskets and seals were relatively easy to get to. I replaced all 3. Put machine back together, but washer still leaked. I ended up having to remove more components down along the center shaft towards the transmission. I found that the "tub seal" was worn out. I also replaced the "seal nut assembly" and "O-ring" while I was at it. The seal nut and tub seal were more difficult to remove without the proper tool, but a bigger rubber mallet and strategically placed pliers were enough to break them loose. Once all parts showed up the washer went back together easily and it is now leak-free.

I unplugged the electric power cord and disconnected the two water hoses and the drain line from the wall. It was messy as water leaked from the disconnected hoses. I tilted the washer forward and leaned it against a bench for support. This exposed the bottom of the washer from the back. I removed the v-belt from the three pulleys. The motor mount was spring loaded making it easy to remove the v-belt from this pulley first. After removing the v-belt, I then removed the 4 screws to the small plate on the back of the washer to gain access to the water pump. I then removed the two water hoses from the water pump using vice grips to squeeze the clamps and slide them off of the hoses toward the water pump. After removing the two hoses (a little messy again), I removed the water pump by using a socket ratchet to loosen the four bolts. I replaced the water pump with the new pump and then reassembled everything in reverse order.