AAV2200AWA Admiral Washer - Instructions

Popped off bleach cap on top then got socket and long extension removed bolt, cleaned a little then replaced new agitater top.Replaced bleach cap and i was done.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

I'm not a washing machine technician but I did nurse a new Kenmore machine for 23 years and was ready for a replacement. Craigslist advertised a Maytag I was interested in and I bought it with the seller's assurance that it worked perfectly. It didn't and I went online to try and figure out what might be wrong. Clearly, the tub was traveling beyond it's design limit and I suspected a spring or two might be involved. Somewhere online, I found the illustrated parts diagram and then went looking for additional information. To my extreem delight, I came across a do it yourself repair video that demonstrated the procedure well enough that I was completely confident I could make the repair with little effort. That video was one of several service related appliance videos offered for free throughhttp://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/index.html/ The final consideration was whether I could buy the replacement suspension springs and snubber ring for less than I paid for the washer. I found PartSelect and within minutes, I had the parts ordered. The parts arrived within 4 or 5 days, as promised, well packaged and in perfect shape. This morning, using the video as a final reference and the new parts, I completed the repair with only a minor hitch. Without the special spring tool used in the video, I struggled a bit with getting the new springs attached. That's where my wife came in handy (after all, she was movitated). Having her tilt the drum toward the spring landing made it much easier for me to stretch it into place using an adjustable locking plier. I actually enjoyed the whole procedure.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

I tilted top cover to remove front washer panel removed suspension springs to remove complete tub assembly to gain access to bottom. Drive pulley to remove snubber ring I performed the repair step by step as per your video. was dead on made the repair go smoothly. I installed the belt last tilting washer mechine back to gain access to undercarrige just walked belt on all three pulleys self adjusting then. made sure washer was level. Front to back side to side no rocking in any deriction My wife did four full loads problems gone I think all needed to be done to complete repair snubber ring , washer drive belt, & leveling machine all played there roll in putting washer back in factory working condition washer not a angery walking vibration nightmare

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

Removed front panel also right side panel to get to the springs. Used vise grips to extend springs and used coins to keep springs open for replacing.

I read some stuff on the internet where folks with the same problem replaced the water inlet valve to repair this same problem. So I did the same. However, after I installed the new water inlet valve, the problem was still there. It was at that point I decided not to guess at the what issue was and instead test the components in the washer. Yes, I am a lazy dumb ass. There are many of us out there. I decided to use a continuity tester to test all components in the hot water fill circuit and determined that the water temperature switch was bad. So I ordered a new switch from Parts Select (they rock - it showed up next day) replaced the water temperature control switch and...walla. fixed!!! Only took about 30 minutes to replace. Lesson learned: Don't be a dumb ass and guess. Test.

For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

Hardest part was finding part that needed the needed repair. Searching the web for issues associated with the sound resulted in many links. Once the sound was found, I went to the video to see how to remove the Water Pump so I could examine it to confirm that was the correct piece. It took about 15 minutes to remove the part. Since I had to remove the belt to get it out, I realize that the belt needed replacement as well. So both parts were ordered. Replacing the parts also took about 15 minutes. Relatively easy repair. Be aware that the video on the part select video shows the water pump in a different location than the Maytag washer. To get to the Maytaq water pump, there is a panel in the back that had to be opened to access the water pump.

We followed the instructions show on the video. However, our model was assembled slightly different. We had to remove the screws from both sides of the side panels so that we could remove the tub from inside of the machine. Also our model only has one belt not two.
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??

Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!