AAV1200ARW Admiral Washer - Instructions

Popped off bleach cap on top then got socket and long extension removed bolt, cleaned a little then replaced new agitater top.Replaced bleach cap and i was done.

Removed entire cabinet from base, removed drive belt, removed suspension springs, removed tub and transmission together.
Removed 6 screws from brake housing to access snubber. Didn't have the special tool to compress the spring for reassembly, but used 3 longer screws to pull the brake housing back down...worked fine. Reinstalled transmission / tub and replaced all 6 springs. Reassembled cabinet. Unit spins great now...like new.

Leaned washer forward, removed clamp and old hose, replaced with new hose, reinstalling clamp.

I'm not a washing machine technician but I did nurse a new Kenmore machine for 23 years and was ready for a replacement. Craigslist advertised a Maytag I was interested in and I bought it with the seller's assurance that it worked perfectly. It didn't and I went online to try and figure out what might be wrong. Clearly, the tub was traveling beyond it's design limit and I suspected a spring or two might be involved. Somewhere online, I found the illustrated parts diagram and then went looking for additional information. To my extreem delight, I came across a do it yourself repair video that demonstrated the procedure well enough that I was completely confident I could make the repair with little effort. That video was one of several service related appliance videos offered for free throughhttp://www.do-it-yourself-washing-machine-and-dryer-repair-help.com/index.html/ The final consideration was whether I could buy the replacement suspension springs and snubber ring for less than I paid for the washer. I found PartSelect and within minutes, I had the parts ordered. The parts arrived within 4 or 5 days, as promised, well packaged and in perfect shape. This morning, using the video as a final reference and the new parts, I completed the repair with only a minor hitch. Without the special spring tool used in the video, I struggled a bit with getting the new springs attached. That's where my wife came in handy (after all, she was movitated). Having her tilt the drum toward the spring landing made it much easier for me to stretch it into place using an adjustable locking plier. I actually enjoyed the whole procedure.

I'm a 69 year old female. My husband isn't very handy so I decided to order the parts and do it myself. I didn't know how to take the machine apart so I just moved the washer part so I could unscrew the screw. I dropped the screwdriver between the adj. and side of the washer. I guess you won't be telling this story. I did get the parts on and the lid is working and so is the machine. Valerie Guyot

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

I obtained the parts on line and began to install these. I was surprised that the ease of my installation was great. Each part was held by one screw. I used a phillips driver and found the under screws easy to get to by pushing the inside clothes drum to the side. A total of four screws was required for the replacement. This repair was so easy that a normal non-trained person can accomplish it. Thanks Admiral.

Removed front panel also right side panel to get to the springs. Used vise grips to extend springs and used coins to keep springs open for replacing.

For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.

disconected water lines unplug power and took drain pipe off, used putty knife to open top of washer and pulled off front removed pannel off back pannel, disconnected water level tube,using vise grips took off springs and pulled tb out used 5/16 socket to loosen screws just enough to pull snubber ring out replaced with new one reversed prosses in putting it back to geather

Followed directions from video on your site. It was very helpful. The snubber ring fixed the problem.

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.