A107S Maytag Washer - Instructions

I ordered the water valve at 12:42 PM one day and received the part at 10:25 AM the next morning. Now this is what I call excelent service. The price of the part was very reasonable. Getting my wife off my back for her washer being broken PRICELESS.

Removed the front cover with two screws at the bottom face. Two steel bolts and the top raises up. Removed the old rubber part and put the new one in. NO LEAK!

I had read where several people had to do the same thing. I will always have a washer basin under it from now on though.

Being a single Mom with no mechanical background, it went very well. I followed the instructions which were very clear. I did it myself!

I removed the front panel 2 screws. Then two screws holding the top deck. Two clamps removed on both ends of rubber injector. Replaced the nozzle and rubber valve, which was leaking. Buttoned the screws and washer works fine.

open top of washer
remove two screws that hold water inlet valve
disconnect four wires and hose;replace new water inlet valve and reversed operation
everything went well

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.

First I removed the front cover by removing screws
towards the bottom of the front. Then I removed the
bolt in each of the front top corners. Now you can lift the top all the way up. Next I located the filler hose that has the injector nozzle and the rubber injector valve. Next I loosened the clamps that hold these parts in place. Next I replaced the worn parts with the new parts and reassembled everything in reverse order.

I removed front panel and top hold down screws. Then removed the clamp, replaced the rubber injector valve and the plastic injector nozzle. re-assembled the unit and tested - everything worked fine - no leaks.

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!

First I remove the hot & cold water hoses using an adjustable wrench. I then unscrew the panel that holds the water inlet valve using a nut driver. I then carefully pull out the panel, moving the harness wires out of the way, so that I can loosen the clamp holding the inside rubber tube. I remove the old water inlet valve from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then put the new one in. I then reconnect the rubber tube and tighten the clamp. I then screw back the panel and reconnect the hot & cold water hoses. It took me about 20 mins to complete the job.

Took out 2 5/16" screws and loosened top and took off two ground wires and 2 hot wires for cold & hot water solenoids and removed & replaced solenoid wires and fill hose. Also Had fantastic delivery of parts.

Diagnosed the problem and ordered the part online in about 15 minutes. Part arrived about 3 days later. I followed the directions that came with the part and VOILA! washing amchine fixed. I unplugged the washing machine. I unscrewed the the screws at the back of the machine. Pulled out the faulty part and disconnected the electrical wires. Connected the electrical wires to the new part, and screwed it back in. In less than 30 minutes, I was done.

First, I opened up the back of the machine to see the way the water got into the tub. I turned off the water at the pipes, unplugged the machine, and disconnected the hoses from back. There were no leaks with the hoses, so I looked at the part that managed the water flow when operating and went on line to find the part.
I found it and then ordered it from partselect.com. I got it two days later. I looked at how the other part was connected to the hoses and reused a clamp. I recommend getting a new hose clamp to make fitting it faster. I felt great after I got it to work, so that we didn't have to buy a new washer (the part was only $26). I think that Repair should be added to Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Unplug washing machine.
Disconnect water supply hoses.
Remove valve service panel, 1 screw.
Remove valve from panel with wires attached. 2 screws.
Remove water outlet hose from old valve.
Mount new valve to panel. 2 screws.
Attach water outlet to valve.
Move wires from old valve to new valve.
Dress wires.
Reinstall valve service panel, 1 screw.
Install new wire braded supply hoses.
Done. Hope to get another 20 years of service.

Washer is enclosed in a walled partition. I spent more time moving the washer out so I could get to the back of the machine. Due to Maytag's design of a removal sheet metal panel holding the valve the entire water valve replacement was performed outside of the machine. The replacement valve was an exact duplicate and made it a simple swap out. More time was spent removing inlet hoses and outlet hose then in actual valve replacement.