A107S Maytag Washer - Instructions

removed back of control panel to find that a mouse chewed the air tube. tried to splice it with a barb connector, it did not work. Ordered part received it 2 days later and installed it. I would recommend buying parts from these folks!

That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

By doing the work yourself, not only gives you the good feeling you did it yourself and works just like it was when it was new and to know there's part's you can still get from part places like these! Like I say to my wife ( if they meaning a repair shop can do so can't I ). Course changing a motor in a car that's a different story, I'll let someone else to do that. To do the repair I took off the front cover of the washer exposing the tub, motor and other things. But the very first thing I did is unplug the power ( I hate the bad storys that if I only turned off the power ? ) then I took off the cover over the motor and changed the switch. And all in reverse. And plug power back in. Started up just fine.

Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

Disconnect the water lines. Remove two screws that hold the water valve to the back of the machine. Pull the water valve out and remove the panel that holds it on to the machine. Remove the water line from the valve to the wash tub. Remove the four wires from the valve remembering where each one goes on the new unit. Attach the valve to tub hose to the new unit. Attach the four wires in the proper order to the new unit . Screw the metal holding panel on to the valve. Push the unit in place and reattach with the two screws. Attach the water lines and use the machine. Remember to unplug the machine prior to changing the valve

For the most part, I followed the excellent repair advice already available on this site for installing these parts. Especially useful was the caution that the threaded pieces had "left hand" threads and to loosen them they had to be turned in a "CLOCK WISE" direction. My washer is 9 years old and due to calcium deposits on the threads, I did have some trouble with loosening the large retaining nut. I first soaked the nut for a few hours with a rag soaked with white vinegar. This removed some of the calcium but I still was unable to undo the nut. Finally, I soaked the nut overnight with penetrating oil and WD-40. The next morning I was able to loosen it using a drift punch and medium sized ball peen hammer. I only had one difficulty. Maybe it wasn't necessary to do so, but I wanted the rubber boot seal to be seated pretty close to the surface of the inner basket. This turned out to require more downward force than I would have expected even though I installed it dry, without use of any type of lubricant or soapy solution. Now, two weeks worth of washing and not a drop of water seen underneath the washer.

Replaced old valve with new one.

The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.

After reading the description of the problem and finding the source of the leak I decided to buy the parts suggested.
To begin:
1. Unplug and turn off water valves at the wall.
2. Unscrew the two front phillips head screws that hold the front of the machine on. Pull off the front facing panel of the washer.
3. There are two hex head screws that hold the lid on. Remove these and then the lid can be lifted to see the nozzle and the valve.
4. Unscrew the pipe clamp that hold the valve on to the pipe.
5. Take out the old valve and nozzle.
6. Use water or soap to lubricate the nozzle and valve before replacing.
7. Install the new parts and reinstall the pipe clamp.
8. Replace the lid and the screws.
9. Replace the face cover and the screws.
10. Plug in the machine and turn on the valves and test.

I tested the machine and thought I could save the water and run another cycle later. This is a bad idea. The water fills up and over the top when a new cycle is added because there is no water level sensor. If you decide to test it and need to empty the water instead of wash a load you can turn the dial to spin and it will drain your test water.
Best

first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

A tension sping on the motor broke, smoking the drive belt.
step1...remove front of the washer to access spring, tip washer back & prop on short 2 x 4 board. 5 minutes
step 2... remove one end of pump belt to get new bely up to drive pulley put on belt using fingers only & replaced the end of the pump belt....2 minutes

step 3...put new spring under motor & hook one end in attaching hole on motor, reach through with pliers to grasp spring to pull end to attach spot on base...1 minute

It took longer to open up the washer front & prop it up that it took to repair it. This is a siper easy repair!

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

I used a 1/4 inch socket to remove the agitator.Used a small screw driver to remove clip. Then I lifted the washer off the shaft with a magnet. Pried out the old seal with a screwdriver. This exposes the top of the tub bearing. I applied some 80-90 differential grease to the top of the bearing, pressed in new seal, installed other parts and noise gone. It sounds like a new washer. I'm glad I found you guys.

There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!