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Models > A106S > Instructions

A106S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A106S parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A106S
31-45 of 489
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Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

washer wouldn't let the water spin out!

  • Customer: SHARON from DETROIT, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

My washer stopped draining

  • Customer: Jenna from St. Louis, MO
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.

Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin

  • Customer: Barry from Brooklyn, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

Water leaking from the underside center of the tub. Only on the rinse cycle.

  • Customer: Mark from King George, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.

Leaky injector nozzle

  • Customer: Michael from Lindstrom, MN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Water was leaking at the injector nozzle during the fill cycle. I could not visually see any damage to the existing part, but, ordered replacement parts, anyway. The new parts arrived and looked EXACTLY like the old ones. Clearly, the new parts would leak, too. So, I cut a three-inch length of 3/4-inch OD pipe and spliced the two hoses together, completely eliminating the troublesome parts. The washer works fine and does not leak. And, it fills much faster, now. I still have no clue as to the purpose of the injector nozzle nor do I know why it did NOT leak for 30 years.

No hot water

  • Customer: Joel from New Canaan, CT
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Went on the PartSelect website, input the problem, and got the Water Inlet Valve as the diagnosis. When the part arrived, I viewed the short video on replacing the Water Inlet Valve and just followed the instructions. It could not have been easier. After turning off both the hot and cold water and pulling the plug from the wall socket, I removed the screw holding the bracket and valve to the machine; removed the 2 screws holding the valve to the bracket; removed the wire harness ends from each solenoid on the valve; replaced the valve with the new one and reattached the wire harness, followed by reattaching the bracket to the valve, and assembling to the machine.

Stripped leveler screw making impossible to level my washer

  • Customer: Rebecca from Wylie, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 17 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

Starter switch on a washing machine

  • Customer: Clifford from Janesville, WI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
By doing the work yourself, not only gives you the good feeling you did it yourself and works just like it was when it was new and to know there's part's you can still get from part places like these! Like I say to my wife ( if they meaning a repair shop can do so can't I ). Course changing a motor in a car that's a different story, I'll let someone else to do that. To do the repair I took off the front cover of the washer exposing the tub, motor and other things. But the very first thing I did is unplug the power ( I hate the bad storys that if I only turned off the power ? ) then I took off the cover over the motor and changed the switch. And all in reverse. And plug power back in. Started up just fine.

One day, I found my dryer continued running after I opened the door. And next day, it stopped working at all. I thought it was time to buy a new one, since my dryer had been used for more than 15 years. But I was curious to know what went wrong, and recalled my friend told me he repaired the door

  • Customer: Xiaobin from Cordova, TN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

Machine would shake violently while tub was spinning

  • Customer: Gary from Alhambra, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the supplied directions to remove covers, unbolt tub springs, and expose the area needed to replace the damper pads. I cleaned the area with acetone and applied a rubber adhesive (not supplied). I used tire patch compound because that is what I had on-hand. I positioned the pads and after they had dried 1/2 hour, lubricated them with the supplied grease. I reassembled the washer and it is now smooth and well behaved.

leak at trans. stem

  • Customer: Mike from Beachwood, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

it was leaking underneath the washing machine tub

  • Customer: Jason from Clinton, OK
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
That would take forever to write in everything you have to do, but I did go to a website that had the steps you must do to complete the repair. You can google tub seal kit and mounting stem and the brand of your appliance and i'm sure you will come across the steps to complete the repair. I would advise you to first order a spanner wrench it makes the job much easier and you really can't complete the job without it. So do that first and then take the machine apart if you suspect it's a tub seal leak and then order your parts. if i had a spanner wrench available to me from the beginning it would have gone much smoother from the start.

Leaking Tub Seal

  • Customer: jerry from haslet, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.
All Instructions for the A106S
31-45 of 489