A104 - Instructions

Disconnected the electric plug and removed the water hoses from the washer. Took off the old water inlet valve under a plate on the washer and hooked in the new one. As we dismantled each section of the valve hook-up we connected that area of the new valve to be sure we got it connected correctly.

real simple i just layed it down and replaced the belts DWIGHT SHAW PS. NO TOOLS REQUIRED.

Remove the front panel by removing the screws at the bottom of the panel; remove the screws holding top and swing back on hinges; loosen the screws on the back holding the valve and replace the valve following how the defective one was attached and then reverse the operation.

tilted the machine back 45 degress. took both belts off and replaced them with the 2 new ones. put some tension on the drive belt and put the machine back in place, did a test run and it worked great.

I went on line to Parts Select since I had used them before, found the correct diagram of my washing machine and determined which parts were causing the problem. ordered the parts and replaced them when they came in. I did not assemble the Plastic Injector Nozzle and Injector Sleeve quite right as I still had a leak after assembling everything. I then watched th on line video showing how to replace the parts I was dealing with. After watching it a couple of times, I saw what I was doing wrong and re-assembled the parts. his tme around everything worked correctly and the my washer now runs as good as new!

removed 2 screws holding on front panel,tilted machine back and remover belts checked stretch against new belts.stretch was minimal.removed 3 screws of pump from underneath machine.pump impeller was free slipping replaced pump installed new belts reattached front cover& started washing clothes again.less than 15 min to do everything

After unpluging cord and disconnecting hoses, I layed the washer over on its front. I simply rolled both belts off their pulleys and installed the new ones. This was easier than I thought! I gave a turn or two on both sets of pulleys to make sure something wasn't preventing the pulleys from rotating properly and all seemed to move okay. After reconnecting everything and doing a test run, I discovered that the transmission was not moving as it should and the belt was still binding. Turned out the 25+ year old transmission finally gave up! I doubt if any new washer I buy will last half that long

Followed the video on how to replace step by step. It all went perfectly except the hose clamp needed to be replaced. Used a small screw automotive clamp.This Maytag is 35 years old and still ticking.

I suspected the pump, so, once I removed it, it was obvious that the shaft from the pump pulley to the impeller was broken (the pulley turned, but the impeller was not turning).I ordered a genuine "Maytag" pump from Parts Select, even though it cost me twice as much as other pumps advertised on Amazon.com. Why fool around? While I was at it, I also ordered 2 new belts from Parts Select, even though the belts on the machine looked OK. But heck, the old belts were 26 years old! What a great machine this old Maytag! This is the first time in 26 years that it failed me...The only reason I looked at the Parts Select repair video was to know what tension to put on the pump belt...BTW, I ordered the parts on the weekend, and they were sitting on my front porch Tuesday, early morning. Impressive..

pulled out wash/dry stacked combo unit from cubbyhole (this was the hardest part) . Shutoff both hose supplies, turn off power to unit.disconnect power cord @ coupling. Disconnect both hoses @ machine and drain into pan. Remove old valve assembly,take note of what wires go where and disconnect. Remove filler hose from valve. Install new unit in reverse order but using new hose washers and be carefull not to cross thread the plastic threads and only tighten as much as needed to keep from leaking. Have bought from these people before and they are SUPER. Had the correct part in LESS than 24 hrs. and for a reasonable price !! Sam

After watching the video the repairs were easy to do.Thank you for the videos.

I watched the YouTube video twice and it was just as easy as in the video. No problems. I ran a couple of test loads and it was back working like a champ. My parents had their belt changed by a repair man and it cot them $150 (pretty reasonable). This whole repair cost only $45 and 15 minutes (including the video watching time!). It pays to do the simple things.

I unplugged machine and removed water and clothes. Tipped washer bback to gain acccess to belts, which slipped off and back on quite easily. Put washer back in place, plugged in and continued washing clothes. Simple!

Just as the video described.... Unplugged the machine, turned off the water, both hot and cold. Unhooked the hoses (replaced them at this time since they were over 5 years old). Took out the top screw holding the frame piece and removed from machine. Took off the wires and the output hose. Removed the valve ass'y from the frame piece. Matched new to the original and reassembled in reverse order.

Ordered replacement water inlet valve, switched out within 10 mins and problem solved for less than $50. Maytag design easily allowed for the inlet valve unit to be replaced without accessing interior workings of the washer. The unit is mounted with 3 screws on a removable rear panel where the hot and cold H2O hoses are connected. Very easy! Tested immediately upon completion and was delighted to see that hot, warm and cold water filled the tub extremely fast, the way it worked when purchased new 18 years ago. The web site repair video was key to my success.