95-1512-23-00 Tappan Refrigerator - Instructions

Based on the website I decided it was most probably the defrost timer, and that was correct. I ordered it, watched the video, and two days later the part was at my door. Took the nut driver, removed 4 screws, then removed the old defrost timer, installed the new one, re-installed the whole plastic assembly with the four screws, and done!!! Couldn't have been easier.

Took old defrost pan off, put new one on. Had to bend new defrost pan a little for it to fit..

We ordered end pieces for the shelf holder, attached them to the long piece and snaped them into the door. Three minutes to open the box, attach, and close the door. A less than 20 dollar repair and success!

Removed the vent cover at the bottom. Removed the screws. disconected the harnes and put the new timer in. This was a very easy fix. Thank You!

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.

Dear Part-select,
I had a fridge that was not working food was melting in the freezer, Beer was warm. You get the picture anyway using your site I found the parts needed to to fix the issue in fact I ordered two parts one fixed the issue 50% and the other like 30% of the time! both parts with overnight shipping were cheaper than 1 part if purchased at our local appliance part outlet:) not to mention the cost of a repair person. Thanks again! . Keep up the good work


Tom Houck
Spokane, WA
Houck Photo
509-723-3418
tomhouck1@comcast.net

1. Turned off the cooling cycle and unplugged the refrigerator.
2. Removed all of the shelving and bottom basket.
3. Removed rear covering in the freezer section.
4. If frosted over, manually defrost coils with hairdryer.
5. Located original thermostat and after marking the wire locations cut the wires and removed the Thermostat.
6. Connected matching wires using a lighter to melt the wires together. Wrapped repaired wires with electricians tape.
7. Unable to install the thermostat in the recommended location (freezer is a tight fit) the new part was installed at the original location.
8. Replaced the rear cover and shelves.
9. Plugged in the refrigerator and set the cycle back to cooling.
10. Monitored freezer coils couple of days/weeks depending on how fast they freeze over (slots at bottom of cover) to validate if problem solved.

Needed to saw the pieces. PUrchased hacksaw.
Son sawed the pieces. Went in like a piece of cake.

Found the part on this site ordered and received part in 3 days. Took approx. 10 min to replace. Thanks for the quick service.

I replaced the shelf end caps in the shelves of my fridge and I also replaced the gasket around the door.

Every time I would open the door, things would fall out because the shelves were giving, because the end caps were broken. Once I got the new ones, I was amazed that these parts are still available and that they lock right in with no problem. Once you get one in, you then have to place one end of that retaining bar into that, very tightly, making sure the end is completely secure in the cap. Then you can lock the other cap to the other end, lock it into place in the door and whala! It is just that simple.


Now the gaket is another story, it is best to soak the gasket in hot water first to draw it up abit so it will be snug and also to use lubricant such as petroleum around the inside where it is going to fit to the door. This made it extremely easy to afix to my door with no problems. I am so glad for this site.. hundreds of dollars saved!!

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

Pulled the few end caps off the retainer bars, pushed the new ones in, and used a medium hand strike to seat the end caps in the doors slots.

Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.