9112WUA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

i needed a rack for my oven i looked everywhere for one that fit could not find one.my oven is not common due to the fact it is for a very small space and only 18 " wide i stumbled on this site by accident and decided to try it out shipping was very fast and people there are very nice any have alot of knoldge about parts it is very well set up to order with just a modle # i have told my whole familey about this site they did a great job and i will be back for more parts.

First I unpuged the Range. Then I removed all racks and bottom tray of oven.
The Ignitor is located at back of oven, paralelle to the gas bar. I removed the 2 screws holding the ignitor and unpluged the wires. Then I put on the new ignitor, perfect fit, replaced the 2 screws and pluged in the wires , then pluged in the range. I turned the oven on and it lit in about 10 seconds.
Thank you PartSelect for having such a wide range of range & oven parts . no one should have to pay a service tech. to fix most problems, as long as we have a GREAT SITE LIKE THIS ONE.
p.s. You guy also had one of the lowest prices , my part arrived ahead of schedule .
THANKS A LOT !

first I removed the two screws on the top of the oven frame that hold the face plate on. then I tilted the face plate out and diconected the thermostat, pulled out the element from the oven and replaced with the new part. Turned the breaker back on and was finished.

The repair was easy. The door pulls off the hinges without any tools. I had to remove four screws ihat held the wall oven in place. I then removed approximately eight trim screws to expose the two screws holding the hinge in place.I then needed to utilize a nut driver to put the screws in the new hinges because the screws cut threads into the hinge as you put them in so they are a little tight and the nut driver makes this step easier.

Removed oven door (easy it lifted right off) and remove oven bottom (also easy, no tools). removed two screws holding igniter and unplug old igniter from power. Re-attached new igniter and re-assembled oven.

Parts came very quickly from PartSelect. Good service.

Gas was turned off! Valve control cover was removed. Inlet fiting to valve was disconnected. Wires were removed from valve. Valve attachment assembly was removed. Old valve swapped out for new on attachment bracket. New attachment assembly affixed into oven. Wires connected. Valve control cover assembled. Gas turned back on and tested. Voila - cornbread the next morning!

The heat sealing strips are elastic type material with hooks on each end. I simply removed the old strips and hooked the new ones in place.
It was easier than I ever dreamed possible!
And my kitchen is now nice and cool.
Pat Morrison
Sanger TX

Remove old knob. Replaced with new part. Everything is working fine now!!

I would have never guessed that the problem would have been with the igniter since it was glowing. After reading some of the entries in your trouble shooting area it was clear that this is common and that it likely was the igniter so I simply took off the two screws that hold it in place, inplugged the old, plugged in the new, secured with the screws and it worked. The only problem I encountered was that when I unplugged the old igniter the plug fell down into the bowels of the oven and I had to fish out with a twisted up hanger.

first I removed the 6 screws that hold the oven in place in the oak cabinet. I slid a kitchen chair in place in front of the oven,then I slid the oven out of the cabinet cut out. Although the gas flex was still connected, I unpluged the electrical connection. I removed the old igniter, unpluged the igniter harness in the rear compartment. Then I installed the igniter in reverse.When the oven was pushed back in and secured with the 6 screws,I turned on and tested. Igniter glowed orange and the flame came on. Job was complete in 20 minutes.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

knob broken. Replaced with the new one.

The gas valve (recently new from partselect) wouldn't open, or sometimes it would open just enough to let some gas escape! I read from others that just because the igniter was glowing, it might not be putting out enough voltage to trip the gas valve. A check of this confirmed that it was sending just over 3V to the valve - not enough to fully open it. I felt confident that springing for the $60 would solve the problem once and for all. After replacing the igniter, the oven lights in 10 sec or less, and this is a 26-year-old appliance! PartSelect to the rescue again!

Slid two latches at rear of bottom oven pan toward door, pulled pan up at rear of oven and removed. Igniter exposed, removed two self-tapping screws with nutdriver, pulled wires surrounded by insulation up out of hole in ovenfloor an unsnapped plastic connector wired to old igniter. screwed new igniter to bracket, reconnected wires, pushed connectors into hole and shoved new insulation around wires, fitted bottom pan and turned on oven. Works better than new, Thanks PARTSELECT.

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.