7WDT770PAYM1 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

The cost part plus shipping for each piece which was described as not cleaning properly due to not spraying. Each of these prices is part plus shipping, diverter valve $28.32 diverter motor did not fix the problem diverter motor $125.08 did not fix the problem my next option is the motor assembly which comes out to $311.53. I think they lead you on with the little parts and you work your way up with the big ones expense wise at this point I will simply cut my losses and buy a new dishwasher because I'm almost at what it would cost for a new one and I've had this one for 4 years. When I went to look for what the problem was each one of these said not cleaning properly which I think now is a generic term to just go from the smallest to the largest if I'm going to replace the motor for 300 plus dollars I might as well just buy a new washer

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

The repair was easy. Getting the unit to slide out from under the counter was more time consuming.
After water and power is disconnected, tip the unit over onto one side to gain access to bottom. Look for two white composite plastic posts (insulators) about 2" long each with a single wire inside. Remove the two wire connectors then unscrew the insulators from the old heating element using an adjustable wrench. Inside the box remove the two metal element supports and pull out the old element. Clean and dry the area in and around the openings where the new element will be re-inserted. Carefully place the new element into the holes with the included new rubber washers. Re-install the two metal element supports on the inside of box. On the bottom, re-install the two insulators to the ends of the element, do not to tighten too much to avoid over compressing the rubber washers which could cause premature cracking. Reconnect both wires and check continuity from the door mircro-switch (white-violet) lead to the (white-red) lead on Electronic Controller connector #1 (P6). The circuit thru the element should be good if the Multimeter reads 10-35 ohms. Put the unit securely back under the counter and run a test wash. Works fine now.
I do recommend, if don't know how to use a multimeter or are concerned about accessing the electronic control box; contact a professional.

Watched the video, it went as advertised. Easy repair and the noise is gone.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

no actual 'repair' was necessary, but, i was blown away at the speedy process of ordering and delivery of the part.

Simply made sure the cap was securely in place.

Our Kitchenaid dishwasher was leaking so I called a repair service. I gave the model number and serial number over the phone and explained the problem. I was told the rubber gasket would need to be replaced. When the repairman came 5 days later he told me that the gasket needed to be replaced but he didn't have a new one on his truck. He ordered one and said he would be back in a week to repair the dishwasher. That took 10 minutes at the most. He then gave me a bill for $200.49 ($71.49 for the part and $129 for the labor)that I had to pay right then. I wrote him a check so he would leave and immediately called the repair company to tell them the price was outrageous and that I had never before paid for a repair before the work was done. I was simply told it was their policy. I then told them I was stopping payment on the check - which I did. I checked on-line for the part and found your web-site and the the part I needed for $27.62. I ordered it on a Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and my husband easily installed it that evening. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I unscrewed the dishwasher from the counter (two screws under the countertop), and pulled it out about a foot so I could access the friction sleeve. I used a needle nosed pliers to slip a spring latch off the door. Then I slipped the new friction sleeve on and reattached the spring. Tested the door. Success! Super easy. About 5 minutes of work.

Prepared by watching the video. Great instructions. Great.

Disassembled easily as per video. Removed the old latch and installed the new.

Began the reassembly and learned that after ten or more years the small plastic parts used to keep the dishwasher steady had slowly deteriorated to the point that I was breaking these necessary items faster than I was putting the appliance back together.

What was a half hour task became over two hours and the end result was for me to put my tools away and buy a new dishwasher the next day. I learned that if your appliance is over ten years old BUY A NEW ONE!

Great job by the people who make and sell the latch parts for you who own a dishwasher that is only a few years old.

Thank you Part Select.

I pulled the upper rack out of the dishwasher. I then removed the broken rack clip stop on the right side and reinstalled the new replacement clip. I then put the rack back onto the rollers and voila, the upper rack no longer fell down off of the tracks!! Problem solved and the replacement clip only cost $8.95!!

Removed old part and replaced with new part