7MMSE7999TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I had to find a point of reference first since item came apart in wash cycle and internal pieces fell out - thank goodness for YOUTUBE. Another guy was thoughtful enough to do a video on how the assembly came apart / went back together - a huge help for sure. Actual repair was less than a half hour after obtaining new part and seeing video. The 12 year old washer works like brand new - saving me close to 1,000 dollar replacement charges.

Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.

First,I checked all of the electrical connectors for continuity. Ev eryone of them checked OK. I had watched a tutorial on you tube that stated the problem with the inlet valve could be mechanical as well as electrical. The tutorial did state that you could take the valve apart to clean it but it wasn't recommended due to the probability of it leaking after re assembly. I ordered a new one since this unit is 20 years old. It took 10 minutes to change out the valve once I got the top/ front of the washer off Once everything was in place I plugged it in set in on the wash mode and I had water in the tub again!

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.

Watched your video and it was right on so helpful it made my job easy.

The washer agitated ok, so I figured it wasn't the motor or agitator. Watching the repair videos, I assumed the clutch might be the culprit. The videos are very good, so I should have taken the machine apart and actually looked at the clutch - it wasn't too bad. Trying to put the new clutch on anyway, I noticed it didn't turn on level. I thought it wasn't seated correct, but it was then I realized the shaft was tilting. This would explain the THUMP, and the grinding must be a gear inside the transmission. As much as I hate to get a new machine, given the tremendous downturn in quality, I think that because this machine is old, it is not worth a $200 transmission. Anyone need a brand new (but test fitted so not returnable) clutch?

Your installation videos are the best thing ever!!! Anyone who is mechanically savvy can repair anything following your instructions. Thank you SO much. I watched the video a couple of times, took some notes, and replaced the clutch. Problem solved. So, thank you for carrying a multitude of parts, quick shipping, and for the videos. I can repair almost anything, but your services make it time and cost effective in an era where the mantra is discard and replace.

Went on-line for help.found parts select website.referred to your service videos.discovered solution to problem.bought proper part.arrived in excellent condition.watched another video for how to install the part.completed repair in about one hour.washer operating back to normal again. this site is a one stop answer/parts shop. thank you .

Kenmore 11027721600 washers repair & replacement parts

Part Number WP3979346 replaces: 3979346, 3979347, 8578342, WP3979346VP.

Post drip from water inlet
To replace the inlet solenoid valve/thermistor assembly:
Unplug the washer.
Turn the water off and unscrew the hoses from the inlet.
Use a putty knife to release the control panel (slide the putty knife under the front corners to release the clamps on the control panel).
Pull the panel out of the way and pop out the two retaining clips that hold the back of the machine to the cabinet. They are located under the control panel.
Remove the mounting screw from the valve assembly (1/4-inch driver).
Pull the back away from the cabinet far enough to remove the valve, but don't let the wires get cut.
Disconnect the wires. To unplug the solenoid connectors, lift the long tab with a screwdriver.
Disconnect the water outlet hose.
Connect the wires and hose to the new valve assembly. The red connector goes to the hot water valve. The thermistor wires (the two individual connectors) can be connected to either terminal. It does not matter if they are reversed.
Put the valve back in place and install the screw.
Hook up and turn the water on.
Plug in the machine and test the valve.
Unplug the power and reinstall the back and the control panel. The back-to-cabinet clips can be snapped back in place easily.

I removed the control panel and a few screws on the back took out the valve.the new one was different but I made a bracket and got it to fit

First time .Replace the clutch .miss placed one of the retainer clip .found it after the replacement came .It was in the fold at the base of the machine.

Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lift retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.

My factory drain hose had a hole in it, that I replaced with a hose from Lowe's. This was my first time doing this, took some time and difficult. I found out after replacing it, that it was not the right fit, as the drum would bounce around during every wash. After 3 months, due to the bouncing of the drum, that house had a hole and needed to be replaced. I chose parts select, and although the specs of the hose listed it as shorter in length than the one I bought from Lowe's, it fit perfectly and fixed my lose drum. I had watched the video on parts select numerous times (swapping out hose) so this was done in less than 10 minutes. I have become a pro at this and it is all thanks to parts select. Thank You!

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.

Order new hose from Part select. It arrived a couple of days later. I took the old hose off with a pair of pliers, put the new one on ran it thru the hole in the back of the machine and I was done. Total of maybe 20 minutes.