7MMPM0060VM0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The video installation instruction was clear and very easy to follow. However, after installing the parts and started testing the washer, the water overflowed. It looks like the water level sensor wasn't working. It caused a little flooding in the area where the washer is. I took the control panel apart once more and this time diagnosed the water level sensor and analyzed how it works. After spending almost 45 minutes with, I detached the hose attachment and blew air which caused air bubbles in the inner side of the drum. I bent the hose to hold the air while re-attaching same to the sensor. This fixed the problem and the washer is once more, operating normally. Please include this part to your video instruction. Overall, it took me 8 hours on the project including the cleanup due to overflow.

First of all I must say thanks guys for your help, the instructions were right on the money. I first replaced the clutch as per the instructions but found out that the problem was the motor coupling ........ It was broken. I ordered it, followed the instructions and I was a hero in my household. Once more thanks guys.

We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the recommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack

took off front cabinet removed pump,and then motor and replaced part.

Followed partsselect video repair guide... it went super.

Watched the video and it was very straight forward, very easy and time saving. I just wish the delivery time for the part was that fast (It was a quick delivery).

This is a relatively easy repair. The difficult part is removing the housing that holds the timer and other knobs. However, once I realized how it comes apart, it is very easy. I removed more of the housing than I needed to in order to get to the timer. You DO NOT need to remove the plastic side panels on the housing faceplate. Once the timer is exposed, one screw and the knob holds it in place. It is very easy to remove and there was an small instruction label advising how to remove the knob. Without that, I would probably have broken the knob trying to pull it off. Once everything was removed, installing the new timer was very easy. Putting everything back that I had taken off was straight forward and would have been even easier had I not taken more things apart than I needed to. I watched a video on the Whirlpool parts site that showed how simple this is to accomplish, unfortunately, I watched it after I had already started the repair job. I would definitely recommend doing this yourself. It saved me a ton of money I'm sure.

Seal on the lid split. New seal easily replaced. It just snapped into place.

After watching the repair video by partselect.com I followed the directions exactly. It turned out to be a piece of cake. I found out that partselect.com has many, many do it your self repair videos on youtube.com. I intend to use them for future repairs. Thank you partselect.com.

Determined based on some Internet searches that the part that we needed was the motor coupling; washer would not spin or agitate. Once I figured out how to removed the cover (by the way, one of the guys at an appliance store told me how to do it), and reviewing the video on your website, I removed the two screws and four clips, dropped the motor, inserted the parts and put it back together - all in about 15 or 20 minutes. It was easy and clean and the washer worked again. Hopefully go for another 5-10 years. Thanks.

went to you tube and watched a video on how to take it apart and replace the clutch assembly.

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!

Unplug washer. turn hot and cold water off. disconnect and mark water hoses. put a blanket on floor and lean washer on its back. use screw driver to remove metal clamps from water pump. use ratchet or nut driver to,,remove screws from metal clamps on motor.remove metal clamps with screw driver. unplug wire harness from motor. remove motor and remove old drive coupling and repelace with new part.