7GU3200XTVY2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Pulled dishwasher from under counter, attached link to spring, hooked spring back into frame/chassis, threaded link through pulleys, attached other end of link onto door, reinstalled dishwasher under counter. All's well. Note-I purchased an extra link anticipating that the other one will fail. They're cheap enough.

Caviat: The actual repair is less than 15 minutes, but I spent a lot of time playing with it before I figured out it was that easy and fast. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from the counter to do this. And it will probably help to look at the new part closely so you can understand where the retainer clip is to press it and release the old pump.

First remove the water from the dishwasher pan that would not drain with a wet/dry vac. Otherwise the water will all drain on the floor when you remove the pump. Then remove the two screws on the kickplate on the front of the unit below the door. Remove the kickplate/maintainence access cover. The drain pump is on the right about 8 inches in. Using two hands you grasp the drain pump with your right hand and use the left hand to push the retaining clip down. Then the drain pump will rotate 1/4 turn counterclockwise and can be removed without pulling the dishwasher out. There is likely to be some water leak out that was traped in the pump housing that you can not reach with the vac. Disconnect the wire. Connect the wire to the new pump, put it in place and 1/4 turn clockwise to install it. Replace the kickplate and you're done.

1) Remove top and bottom dish baskets from the dishwasher, this will give you room to work. To remove top basket there are clips at the end of the slide rails.
2) Remove lower spray arm by unscrewing plastic screw, it should only be hand tight.
3) In order to remove the strainer cover, you will need to remove the plastic tube that takes water to the middle and top spray arms. Unclip this tube from the top and middle clips and then work it out of the strainer assembly tube. Now you should be able to remove the tube at the bottom of the dishwasher by unscrewing it 1/4 turn.
4) Remove the strainer cover by unscrewing the 4 Torqs screws.
5) You will now see two smaller torqs screws that hold the hold the Chopper Assembly cover down. Take these two screws out and remove the two piece cover.
6) Pull out the broken Chopper Assembly, make sure you get all the pieces!
7) Install the new Chopper Assembly. Make sure that you install the Assembly with the small part of the screen towards the bottom of the housing. Also make sure you compress the spring as you install the part. I used a small pair of neddle nose pliers to compress the spring behind the screen in order to install the chopper assembly.
8) Put everything back together and make sure it works!

I did a search on the website and read the instructions for trouble shooting. I took the inside door off by taking the screws out. I pulled the part and tested it and found it did not in fact have no ampage. I then ordered the part on line. It came in two days, I plugged it in, put the door back together and the total time was about 15-20 minutes. Easy, simple, great instructions and the entire thing only costed me the part itself. It's working great now! And I've never worked on appliances before.

1. Open the dishwasher and remove the two plastic grommets about halfway down on either side of the opening. Then remove the two screws under the grommets.

2. Remove the kick plate under the door. May have to lower unit by turning the feet using the adjustable wrench.

3. Make sure you have enough slack in the water input line and electrical wiring that you can pull the dishwasher out about 12 inches or more.

4. There is a spring and nylon rope link on both sides of the unit. Probably just one link is broken, but the replacement comes with two, so you can replace both or save one as a spare. Look at the good side and it should be pretty self explanatory how it attaches. I found it easiest to first thread the link around the lower pulley, then attach the link to the spring, then spring to the rear support, then the link to the door.

5. Reverse (2 to 1) to reinstall the dishwasher.

Printed door assembly parts list and photo from KitchenAid website. (With the absence of instructions, it was a big help.) Remove door cover. You'll need a star driver bit. Remove the old dispenser. Note how the metal clamp and black cover sheet are positioned. Install the new dispenser. Insure the wiring harness is snapped in place. Replace the door cover. Not difficult; just some patience. One more hint ... be careful when taking the door cover off and you won't have to disconnect any other wiring.

This was the second time I had this problem so I knew the symptoms and remedy. The tools needed were two nut drivers a ¼” and 5/16” along with a flat pry bar and Phillips screw driver. I started by removing the lower front panel by removing the two ¼” screws on either side. The lower panel will lift up and then can be removed by pulling on the bottom. There is a flat sheet metal piece behind the front panel with insulation that can be removed very easily along with the front panel. When the front panel is removed it exposes the front legs that may need to be dropped to let you lift the dishwasher over the tile (if you have ceramic tiles). The next step would be to remove any ties to the counter top if it is attached. Mine were attached by the two straps on either side with Phillips screws. After the top is free, lower the front legs by lifting the dishwasher with the flat pry bar and threading the legs up into their holders. With the legs lifted the dishwasher can be pulled out to expose the tension springs located along the sides at the very bottom. Chances are the ropes are broken off the plastic holders that fit over the door hooks.
Remove the plastic guides by removing the 5/16” nut from the middle of the lower roller. Remember to note which hole the screw is coming from this also sets the tension for how fast or slowly the door drops. Placing the nut closer to the front will drop the door slowly and toward the back will drop the door more quickly. I placed mine in the middle hole. When the plastic guides are removed attach the nylon pope to the spring and attach to the back of the dishwasher. There is a hole located on a flat piece of sheet metal the spring will attach to at the back of the dishwasher (if it is broken). Check the other side if it is still in tact. With the spring in place weave the rope around the plastic guides then pull the springs to help get the plastic end over the door hook located at the bottom of the door. Repeat this operation for the other side (kit has a both sides covered) and reinstall dishwasher in cabinet.
Steps
1) Remove front panel (1/4” nut)
2) Release Dishwasher from Cabinet
3) Lower front legs
4) Pull Dishwasher out from under Cabinet
5) Remove Rope Guide (5/16” nut)
6) Install new Rope Guide (Supplied in Kit)
7) Attach new rope to Spring and attach spring to dishwasher
8) Weave rope through rope guide
9) With door closed pull spring to relieve tension so rope can be attached to door
10) Repeat for other side (Kit has both sides)

i removed the top screw for the water input to the spinner, which gave me enough room to replace the worn nipple pin that the spinner snaps on to. then snapped the new spinner in place. and then screwed everything back into place.

So one day passing the dishwasher while it was running, I noticed a rather pungent burning smell. Yikes, I shut it off!
I took apart the pump housing at the bottom inside the dishwasher, expecting to find some kids toy plastic bit had got caught and had jammed the motor or something. But nothing there, and my dishwasher has a little screen to keep just such things from getting to the pump anyway. Hmmm.
So, ran the dishwasher again, seemed ok now.
A week later, same thing, burning smell. Pull it apart again, but no sign of trouble. But I know something is up, so I pull the kickplate and have a look underneath... Way at the back I see a red wire that looks a little melted, but it's hard to tell, so I pull the whole dishwasher out. Sure enough, one of the heater wires is melted and burned, and the plastic locknut holding that side of the heater is badly scorched. Looks like a little electrical fire, I'm lucky it didn't get out of hand!
The heater still tests ok with an ohmeter, but I don't trust it now - order the heater and replacement locknut and washers. Didn't need to order washers, they come with the heater, oh well.
Heater removal and replacement is very straight forward, but I added some high-temp gasket silicone sealant (Ultra Blue) around the seals as I think the original problem may have ben a bit of water leakage causing a short.
Took about an hour to pull the dishwasher out, remove the heater and install the new one, put a new terminal on the heater wire, and put the whole thing back under the counter.
Working great now. But not a problem I expected to have with a 2-year-old dishwasher!

Removed the screws holding the metal front of the dishwasher on, removed the 6 screws holding the dispenser in place. Put the new part in and put all screws back in where they were. Put the front back on the dishwasher with its screws, done.

Opened door and installed cap. Not much effort. But really got good service from Parts Select. Received order much faster than I had expected.

remove old seal, clean and dry the gap where the new seal will be installed. Apply adhessive, place new seal, then let dry for 24 hrs.

The hardest part was getting the seal, we first ordered from a sears parts store locally. They also told me that everything was included to install it, but they did not include the adhesive, they lost the order via ups and never notified me. I finally called them and they made me go back to the parts store for a refund. I then ordered on parts select and they had it in my hands in 3 days.

The air inlet strip has a flap and two smaller side flaps that seal the bottom of the inner door to the bottom pan that hold the water. The flaps don't form a watertight seal as they only serve to prevent the water surging during wash and rinse cycles from splashing out of the bottom pan onto the floor under the door. What I learned after dismantling the door is that the problem I was having with water dripping from the bottom of the bottom of the outer door was being caused by a loose upper round louvered vent and not he lower vent strip. If the lower vent strip were the problem, water would leak from the front lip of the bottom pan, which is located well behind the face of the front door panel.

Here's my recommendation on the lower vent srtip repair. Turn off the power to the unit at you breaker panel. The air inlet strip is fastened to the backside of the inner stainleess steel door panel. To access the screws the outer door panel must be removed. Open the door and remove the six torx head screws that fasten the outer door panel to the stainless steel inner door. Don't remove the two torx screws top dead center as they hold the door latch. After removing the screws, raise the door up to the nearly closed position. Lift up the outer door panel handle and door bottom to disengage the outer panel from the inner stainless door. The next part is a little tricky since the vent strip hex head screws are at he bottom of the stainless door panel, facing out with the door closed. The lip of the bottom stainless pan is high enough to make it a tight fit to access the screws. There is also a steel bracket that is a door stiffener and holds electrical wiring. I found removing the bracket held by a 1/4" hex head screw on each side made access to the vent strip scews easier. Lay flat on the floor. With a 3/16" nutdriver or socket wrench each of the five vent strip screws can be removed. It's a tight fit between the bottom lip and door bottom, but it can be done. Remove the old vent strip and attach the new one. Make sure it fits snugly into the slot. Best to have an extra pair of hands at this point to hold the stip securely in place while screws are reinserted from the opposite side. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

It was when I had the outer door panel off that I noticed my problem was water getting past the upper round louver vent seal and thus running down the inside of the outer panel. Simple fix was to remove and clean the scale residue from the parts and door. Then reassemble the vent and twitst tighten the vent to compress the rubber seal on the inside face of the door.

Removed mushroom shaped float cover by simply pulling up. Cover simply slide down into switch which is mounted through the floor of the tub. Using an adjustable wrench loosened and removed plastic fastening nut allowing removal of switch assembly from below. Disconnected two wires from switch and attached replacement assembly, reinserted in mounting hole, reattached nut from top, reinserted float cap and job done! The only tricky part is that the switch needs to be mounted inside assembly, wires connected and snapped shut before reinserting. Not difficult once you figure it out, Also need to make sure rubber washer is inserted on the overflow tube before reinstalling. Keep track as you remove and simply reverse the order. Tried to obtain part locally and was told it would be 6-10 days before delivery. Order from Part select arrived in 2 days.

I called an experienced plumber, who balanced and installed my new dishwasher properly, using the brackets I ordered from Parts Select, after an INEXPERIENCED plumber had tossed the factory-provided mounting brackets out with the shipping carton. Relief!