78743 LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).

Turn off power, remove upper and lower drawers (may need to open upper refrigerator doors to remove large freezer bin,) remove drawer supports (upper and lower), remove rear freezer panel (trick is to loosen 4 screws on fan bumpout to get the panel to come free from the freezer side wall), test thermistor with multimeter (should have continuity or near zero resistance across 2 orange fuse wires) before cutting zip ties, cut zip ties holding Thermistor in place, remove old Thermistor, install new Thermistor, install new zip ties, replace rear freezer panel, install upper and lower drawer supports, install drawers, turn on power, should be fixed if error code doesn't return after 6 hours.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

Turned of water to refrigerator and unplugged refrigerator. Removed the water line from refrigerator. Removed back panel. Removed mounting screw from the water valve, Unhooked wire harness from valve and removed the water line on back of valve. Reconnected wiring harness to new valve, reconnected water line on back of valve. Replaced the back panel to refrigerator and put the water line back on the new valve. Turned on water valve and checked for leaks. It's now dispensing water and ice.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

The Refrigerator now runs very quite.
After watching several videos I started on mine and found that it was a bit different than any in the videos. However all but the back panel was shown and that was helpful.
The back panel was a bit difficult but a hair dryer seemed to help .
All in all it was a good choice to do it myself as it was done quicker than waiting on a repair man.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

Unplugged fridge, shut off water supply disconnected water supply from fridge. Remove screws that hold lower cover on back of fridge, removed screws holding valve assembly to fridge. Disconnect two electrical connections, remove black c-clip on out flow water line, lift fitting on outflow line side and pull water line off. Replace with valve assembly in reverse order

Unplugged the refrigerator. Used small flat head screw driver to push the front tab of the old switch in and pulled it out with pliers. Detached and reattached the wires to the switch. Reinserted back into hole. Plugged refrigerator back in to power. All good.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

0) Look on the internet for a DIY/or pro-shop Video
1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug the power cable
2) Shut off the water at the wall valve
3) Disconnect the water line at the inlet valve on the refrigerator (lower corner, right side), this is a threaded pipe fitting requiring a small open end wrench
4) Remove the lower rear panel
5) Remove the water inlet and distribution valve assembly, there is one sheet-metal screw holding the assembly to the back edge of the refrigerator.
6) Carefully pull the assembly out of the back of the refrigerator, leave the distribution water lines attached, note the orientation
7) Disconnect the electrical connectors, note the orientation/types
8) Disconnect the water line from the inlet valve, remove the retaining clip, then pull out the line. Note - a small metal star shaped tube fitting may come out with the valve, this is fine and will not be used again.
9) Remove the inlet valve from the assembly (there are two small sheet-metal screws that are very tight, the correct/precise size, good quality Philips head screw driver is necessary or use a small set of vice-grips to grab the head of the screw)
10) Attach the new valve to the valve assembly, connect the electrical connectors, note - at the plastic refrigerator water line that connects to the inlet valve, trim/cut a small section off the end of the water line before connecting it to the valve. This will provide a fresh interface for the connection. Push the line in firmly and then install the retaining clip.
11) Perform a quick functional check before putting everything back together - Attach the water line from the wall, turn on the water, attach the electrical connectors, plug in the refrigerator power cable and test for operation and leaks.
12) Assuming no leaks/operational issues, unplug the refrigerator power cable again, turn off the water at the wall, disconnect the water line at the inlet valve and reinstall the valve assembly and rear panel. Reconnect the water line and plug in the power cable and you should be good to go.!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!

pried out old switch, disconnected wires ,placed wires on new switch

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.