4KSRS25CHT00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplug the refrigerator. Snap off the ring surrounding the dispenser from the bottom. There are two slots on the bottom. This is the toughest part of the repair because my refigerator is older and the part stuck. Then unscrew the two hex screws and unsnap the parts, then reassemble with the new parts. Snap the ring back on and you're all set. Pretty easy.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'

The repair was actually easy; however I have an ice dispencer/crusher attached and the which the diagram supplied with the part did not include. I had to make several calls before I was e-mailed the diagram.
Suggestions: note that the screw at the end of the auger goes in the reverse direction (this took me about 20 minutes to figure out even though it was shown in the diagram). Also, be sure to keep the ice crusher parts in order and be sure the white plastic tab on the crusher fits into a depression in the housing. I did not notice this and had to take it all apart and redo the install. It works great!!!

Please note the part I ordered is actually the meat pan shelf/frame. It is listed incorrectly on your site as the crisper drawer cover/frame. The pictures are correct though.

It is really easy to replace. I just removed the crisper drawer which is above it to get room to work. Then I removed the glass insert from the meat pan cover. I then removed the frame by lifting up on the front edge and then pulling it forward and away from the back two support pins.

Don't forget to tranfer the gaskets and air deflector from the old shelf to the new shelf.

Insert the new frame by sliding it back onto the two rear support pins and then lowering the front edge down to rest on the two front support pins. Replace the glass and drawer.

The control bracket is made of plastic and holds two microswitches that activate the ice dispenser and the water dispenser. The plastic clips that held the switches on the control bracket broke so that the switches no longer operated when the ice dispenser lever was operated.

Two screws held the external dispenser bezel, and two screws held the control bracket in place. The wiring and switches were transferred to the new bracket and the new bracket screwed into place. Then the bezel was replaced.

Total repair time was less than 5 minutes. The control bracket was $16.50 with shipping and arrived two days after I placed the order.

The PartSelect website had a clear diagram of the control bracket so I was comfortable with the order.

The door is very easy to remove. There is one nut for the cap on the top of the soor hinge. Once the cap is removed, you need to remove the 3 nuts holding the hinge in place. Simply lift the door off the lower hinge and rest it on the dining room table. I set towels down to protect the stainless finish. The closing cam will be visible on the bottom of the door. I choose to replace the lower cam and the upper cam at the same time. I did not know what the problem cam was. The door works good as new. I put a small amount of vaseline where the two cams rub to provide a lubricant.

1) At bottom of ice maker trim there are two small slots at right and left ; use screw driver to pry away from door; lift trim upward away from door 2)using 1/4" nutdriver remove screws from 4 corners, 3) remove 2 screws from control panel 4) disconnect all wires/cables and set exterior panel aside. 5) locate 2" pin that runs through door spring and use needle nose pliers to remove round clip on left end of pin don't lose this clip 6) while pushing ice maker lever (where you would push with your glass) use needle nose to pull the long pin out to the right 7) Remove all remaining parts by hand (i.e. the pin, the dash pot and white lever and the ice door) 8)slide new control lever into slots on exterior side of the new door 9) -tricky part- using needle nose, push pin back through the right hinge point, the new lever, the new door, the new spring and the left hinge point (note the new door has no electric wire connector) 10) using the needle nose, carefully replace the little round clip on the left end of the metal pin. 11) reconnect all the wires (don't worry about the wire that had been connected to the door wire, just fold it aside) 12) replace two screws screws in control panel and four screws at corners of exterior panel 13) snap outer trim panel back in place.

Originally replaced water inlet valve, not the problem. Tried to work from cheap to expensive.
1. Turn off power, shut off water supply
2. Loosen top two screws of ice maker (will slide up and off, no need to take top two out)
3.Remove bottom screw from ice maker
4.Pulled unit, snapped out existing wire harness
5.Cut hole for water inlet on end of new unit and attached wire icemaking on/off bracket.
6 Connected existing wiring harness to new unit
7. Slid new unit down onto top two screws, put in bottom screw and tightened all three
8. Turned on power and water supply
Had ice being made within two hours. Part Select has given me great service, highly recommend.

I removed two screws on the top and one underneath the unit. Then I disconnected the cable. The hardest part was getting the nut driver on the bottom screw because it was obscured by the unit. The replacement unit plugged right in! I got my first batch of ice in about 20 minutes. All I really needed was the timer unit, but the entire ice maker wasn't much more expensive, especially when you consider the time saved on installation!

The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

open ice maker door, use mirror to view slot in front of ice maker, slip piece in place and done

Received my kit quickly. Job was fast and easy. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver and unpluged the wiring harness. Use a flat blade screwdriver to lift the tab on the plastic end cap of the harness. The icemaker comes out in one piece. The wiring harness that came installed on the replacement icemaker matched mine perfectly. (It comes with two others). I plugged the new one in, replaced the screws, bottom one first to help hold it while replacing the top two screws. I used the shut-off arm from my faulty icemaker. Turned the power back on and put 1/2 cup of water in the tray and walked away. Ice dropping into the bin was music to my ears. Didn't need any of the clips or things that came with the icemaker. It was basically a "plug and play". I'm so happy to have ice again, and at a great savings!

I had a technician called out to the house to look at repairing several appliances that all have broken parts after just 3 yrs of use. Hood, Microwave, Oven, Fridge all in need of minor repairs..

Anyway - the estimate was $240 to replace the ice maker. I ordered PS358591 for $104. and it came in a couple days.. I took out one screw - slid out the icemaker, unplugged it - plugged in new one and slid it in the slot - and done !! Took about 20 mins.. didnt need any of the wiring harnesses in the box from partselect. Was way to easy to do !!

Thank you !

First, I unplugged the power to the entire fridge, and then removed the ice tray and ice door. Next, I unplugged the flat plug in the very back left behind the icemaker. Then I removed the 1/4" hex head sheet metal screws (2) and the phillips head screw (1) that hold the icemaker to the left side of the freezer wall. New icemaker came with a different style trip arm, so I used it. Plugged new icemaker in before reattaching it with the same (3) screws. Replaced ice tray and door, plugged in fridge, and waited....Dumped its first batch of ice maybe a couple of hours later. Not much trouble-shooting is needed when the entire icemaker is as easy and relatively inexpensive to replace as this. Twenty minutes, max.