4KSRS22QFW01 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

shut off water supply behind fridge then released trapped water pressure in the line at the dispenser. Locked off dispenser controls (push button switch). Removed nozzle retaining screw and pulled out nozzle approx. 3 in. to cut off tubing at black pipe so as to use the old pipe as a guide/pull (fish) for the new pipe by joining the end of the new nozzle to the cut and of the old pipe with electrical tape.Then pulled the old pipe from bottom of fridge while simultaneously feeding/pushing new pipe from top. I had to remove lower grate on fridge to access the pipe on bottom. Remaining coupling connection on bottom was done by hand to avoid stripping plastic coupling.

At their site was ordering each piece by # and cost and it was adding up to be costly. Went to partselect and was doing the same and up pops the ice door kit. Was a little wary because my original had a heater tape to it. Got the kit and installed not a problem at all. 100% satisfied would recommend to anyone.

Turn off water supply line fridge. Removing front panel is a must to allow acces to spout and water line. Be careful not to crack front panel $90, it snaps in from the botton, slide a stiff putty knife along bottom edge and gently pry outward to remove. Remove 2 screws that hold spout in place, then cut water line right behind spout. The tricky part is fishing water line down through door. You need to splice new line to old with double sided screw or something with threads that will prevent the lines from pulling apart, then pull water line from bottom of door by hinge, very tight when pulling through hinge opening. You will need to remove vented dust cover at botton of doors to acces the water line. The line has a threaded coupling so unscrew and drain water then cut new line to length. There is a small metal insert in old line that needs to be removed and inserted into new line before attaching coupler. I could perform this in half the time now that I have done it once.

To get the coupler off the motor shaft I took two adjustable wrenches and slit the old coupler where it was cracked.The threads on the motor shaft were stripped closest to the motor.I took two thin washers and put them on the motor shaft so the new coupler would not turn down to where the threads on the motor were sripped.Since the threads on the coupler are left hand they keep the coupler tight as the motor turns the dispenser auger to dispense the ice.I was a bit difficult to unplug the wiring harness but got it after we used a screwdriver to keep the tab bent down until the harness was unplugged.

First off, if you have the stainless steel panel inserts on your refrigerator you'll need to remove those to do this repair. I kept looking for the access holes on the underside of the dispenser panel that you're supposed to insert a screwdriver into to pry it off. It wasn't until I removed the freezer door handle, slid the lower stainless panel insert out, and removed the rail just beneath the dispenser that I could see and access these holes. I also removed the upper stainless panel and rail just above the dispenser to allow enough movement get the dispenser cover off and out. The rest of the repair is pretty straightforward. The old ice door was beaten up and not closing completely, this was letting warm air into the freezer which was melting and re-freezing. This kit fixed the problem.

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall

The repair was incredibly easy -
1. Turn off the water at the water line for the fridge
2. Disconnect the pressure fittings for both lines running to the resevoir.
3. Remove the old resevoir
4. Install the new resevoir and run the lines back to the orginal fittings.
5. Reconnect the fittings, turn on water.
6. Drink water!

Initially I removed the cover to the auger and auger drum. Then the split ring locking washer had to be removed. I used a needle-nosed pliers and small screw-driver to pry that off. The auger arm could then be removed, and the auger blades removed. This proved to be the part that required the most patience. The blades need to removed and returned in their exact pattern. Someone else suggested taking a digital picture of them before removing them; this is a good suggestion that I failed to do. Once the blades are returned, all the other parts can be replaced in reverse order. Put the screws back in, and you are finished.

the parts sent included two replacement kits which at first was confusing. I determined that I only needed the one with the black tubing for my Kenmore refrig. Turned off water supply and vacuumed up all the dust bunnys behind refrig. Removed bottom grate on refrig where black tubing attaches at the other end. Released water left in tubing at dispenser. I did not have to remove the front panel. Removed one screw attaching the nozzle to the dispenser. Decoupled tubing at the far end, more water came out here too. Pulled out upper end of tubing a couple of inches and snipped off. Attached tubing to new tubing with thin wire (as others here recommended) and had my husband pull at far end while I pushed slowly at the dispenser end. Once through reattached screw at top and recoupled at the bottom. Mission accomplished!

First remove the ice container from the freezer
and dump all of the ice. Remove the four
screws holding the front ice container cover. Remove the control arm screw and bracket from the bottom of the ice container, remove crusher housing (screws and retainer clip). Remove nylon
bearing nut on front of auger shaft (left handed threads). Remove crusher blades and spacers (remember order of blades and spacers). Remove broken floating baffle. Replace baffle and reverse removal procedures.

The hardest part was getting the front cover plate off. I used two kitchen knifes one in each slot on the bottom of the plate and pried it off and unplug it. I removed one screw to release arm. I then used long nose pliers to remove the pin on door arm assemble. Then unplug door heater. New door has no heater. The heater had cooked the plastic arm, which caused the arm to fail. Then reassemble in reverse order.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

Removed face plate, disconnected wires, removed and replaced micro switch and control bracket.

First, turn of the water supply. Then remove the snap on grill from the bottom front of the refrigerator. Disconnect the black hose from the white hose and drain the hoses into a suitable recepticle. Then remove the 1/4" screw that holds the nozzle in place. Cut the hose off just behind the nozzle bracket and tape the end of the new hose to the now exposed end of the existing hose. From the bottom of the door you can now gently pull out the old hose while pulling in the new one. Re-attach the new hose to the existing white hose and replace the 1/4' screw to the new nozzle bracket. I reccoment using 1" wide tape and only going around the tubes once. Too much tape and you won't be able to feed it through the small hole at the bottom of the door. Have someone feed the hose from the top as you gently pull from the bottom.