41744102300 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

First,turned the power and water off. I disassembled the door lock and switch assembly by removing two screws from the rear of the top lid to gain access to the switch. Removed two screws from the switch assembly located in the front door latch area. With screws removed, I seperated the three terminal blocks and inspected the assembly for failure potential. Discovered a small crack in the switch housing which created error in relay function. Ordered the part and installed in reverse order of above. Realigned the door for proper closing, turned water and power on and did laundry all night to catch up!!!

I heard that the repair job was simple and the part was not expensive (whew!) The repair video on your website was MOST helpful and gave me confidence. At first I tried it exactly as the guy demonstrated and all went well removing the broken support. Installing the new one (on the right side) was impossible for me. I could not get good enough leverage to fully re-insert the lock pins and I was slicing up my arm on the sharp metal edges. I removed the 900+ screws (just kidding- but there were quite a few) from the back panel and could access the lock pins MUCH easier. All four for both shock absorbers snapped right in. Re-attaching the rubber vent hose involved a few cuss words but I got it back on correctly after taking a break. All is great with the little washing machine once again! Thank you for the installation video and amazingly fast shipping, wow.

1. replaced (2) shocks, remove bottom cover 2. (1) spring and rib belt, used a wooden block to hold up drum , rolled out ld belt and rolled in new----remove top and rear covers after replaced same ---thanks..

First I did some research and concluded the water inlet needed replacing. Obviously once you know what you need you go to PartSelet.com for parts and installation info. I went through the front of the machine. So I removed the front of the washer(2 screws at the front bottom)slide down the panel to separate it, lifted the top cover of the washer(2 screws on the underside of the lid and 3 wire connectors to the fill switches) and then loosened the right side panel(3 screws at the bottom). Now pushing the wash barrel to the side it gave me enough room to squeeze my arms in to the inlet part. Be careful there are sharp edges and screw tips inside the machine. I removed the 2 wire connectors(hot and cold solenoids) inside the washer and then removed the screw from the back outside that holds the water inlet to the machine. Now I was able to pull the inlet closer to me so I could get pliers on the hose clamp to loosen and remove the old part. The new part was an improved version that was more solid. I attached the hose affixed the squeeze hose clamp and pushed the water inlet into place. The screws were not threading so I grabbed a couple of self taping hex head screws and a nut driver head for my drill and screwed the inlet in from the back of the washer. Then I replaced the wire connectors to the water inlet. With the water inlet complete, I reattached the right side panel, the washer lid, fill switch connectors and the front panel. Washer fixed and running perfectly!

The store I bought the washer from was going to charge $150 service call and over $60 for the part. I searched on the internet and found what i needed at partselect.com. The part was under $7 and the shipping cost more than the actual part. 2 screws, 1 screwdriver and it was fixed. Thanks!

Removed top,removed hose from inlet valve to washer,removed hot and cold inlet hoses and with phillips screwdriver removed water inlet valve assy and replaced. Reassembled and tested.

My order arrived 2 days after i ordered same. Excellent service from partselect, Thank You....

I watched the u-tube video and followed what he did and it was fixed. Reason it took over 15 min I had to find the correct bit for the screw. I think your web site is great thanks

The repair itself was simple; it was the original design of the washer itself that made it time-consuming, because of the tight spaces involved. Basically, all you have to do is remove 2 plastic pins, take out the broken part, make sure you have the new part facing the right way, and put the 2 plastic pins back in. Should take 2 minutes if there are not other machine parts in the way!

First, I unplugged the unit, then took out the hold down screw. Next I took off both snap rings and layed towels down. Pulled off both hoses. Finally reattached in reverse order. I did not have the problem of others with the snap rings they came off easy and went back on easy.

Open the door. Pull the clamp off of the boot (locate spring at bottom). Peel back the boot on the right side so that you can get to the door lock and switch assy. Remove the 2 screws in the front that hold in the door lock and switch assy. Remove the wires from the old assy. Transfer the wires to the new assy. Screw in the new assy. Refit the boot and clamp. give it a try.

I unplugged it from the outlet, undid the two screws from the top, then slid it off, opened the door and undid the two screws from the door switch lifted it out relaced it with the new one, screwed it back into place, replaced the top, plugged it back in and away it went.
Garry

repair wasn't too difficult, hardest was raising the drum to engage the springs.

Steps I took:

remove the rear and front (bottom) covers. To remove the rear cover, I went ahead and took the hoses off. The bottom cover needs a good tug once the two screws are removed.

Once both covers were off, it was obvious what had to be replaced.
Pushing the notch on the shocks, removed both top and bottom pieces. Then I used books to lift the drum so that i could attach the new springs. Removed the books, installed the shocks from the top to the bottom.

Went ahead and removed the coin drop, cleaned it out, and reattached. Ran the washer two cycles to confirm the vibrations were gone. Loaded it up with towels (seemed to cause the worst vibs) and it was quiet.

Re-installed the covers and that was it.

The drain pump was easily acessible at the front of the washer. There were only two screws to remove. However the two clamps holding the in/out drain pipes were a bit tough to release. When installing the new part, it made it easier to attach the drain pipes first before reattaching the two screws. We were able to get one clamp on fairly easily but the other we finally gave up on and put the old fashioned screw-type clamp on. It worked fine.

Pulled washer electrical plug from receptacle.
Unscrewed hot and cold water inlet hose connectors.
Removed screws retaining backplate.
Removed back plate.
Removed two screws connecting valve assembly to frame.
Pulled two spade electrical wire connectors from valve assembly.
Opened hose clip securing hose on outlet side of valve assembly, using pliers.
Pulled hose from valve assembly.
Valve assembly now free.
Reversed above with replacement valve assembly.

2 screws off and put new striker in and replaced the screws