40418118 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There are eight guides that hold the rack rails in place. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the top two guides on each side in order to remove the rack from the dishwasher. The plastic axles on the rack and the rollers snap on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip on one end of the rail. Remove the plastic end piece then slide the rollers out. Place two new rollers in the rail and put the plastic end piece on. Use the hammer and punch to bend the metal clip back into place. Snap the rails on the rack and set the rack on the guides in the dishwasher. Replace the top guide using the screwdriver, you will have to twist the rails in order get them in between the
guides.

Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.

Open the tiny plastic package in inserted the wheel onto the "axle". Opened the dishwasher, pulled out the bottom rack and snapped the wheel onto the rack. Done!

The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.

Used the pliers to remove the broken roller. It came off in pieces. Slid new one on.

Cap on end of roller track was a bit of a challenge. It sort of twists & pulls off.

First removed four old wheels. then attached four new wheels to lower rack by pressing into slots.

Just pulled off the old wheel. I just had to push in the stud to the wheel and pushed it on to the rack of the dishwasher. Very easy repair! Only disappointing part was that it bothered me to have to purchase the stud with the wheel. I was told they only came as the set. I only needed to purchase that inside stud. My wheels were fine.

1. I removed the plastic stops from the ends of the upper rack slides.
2. Removed the upper rack.
3. Unclipped the old rollers from the rack.
4. Clipped the new rollers onto the rack.
5. Made a grunting noise so the wife could hear.
6. Walked away

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

Pulled the end cap off and replaced the wheel.
most of the parts were for future repairs

Removed door seal and corner baffles by hand (no tools required). Replaced same parts with minor tweaking to get proper alignment of new seal. Strongly recommended: remove dishwasher trays in order to get head and shoulders inside for proper view of seal placement.

popped old wheel off popped new one on
for the rack roller i took the ends off and slid old rollers off then slid new ones on.

Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.

First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)

Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever

2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.

[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:

4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.

Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.

Note: This procedure assumes replacement of both eyelet cables. It is recommended that both eyelet cables be replaced at the same time.

1. Using a Philips' head screwdriver, remove the four screws holding the lower front panel (below dishwasher door).
2. Remove the faulty eyelet cable(s) hooked into the springs at one end and the door hinges at the other.
3. Take the new eyelet cables and hook them onto the door hinge on either side. Ensure a secure fit.
4. Guide the eyelet cable around the spinwheel on one side and insert the hooks of the springs into the eyelets.
5. Pull on the springs and insert their hooks into the eyelets of the other cable, ensuring a secure fit.
6. Test the door by opening and closing it a few times to ensure the spring has tension.
7. Replace the lower front panel cover removed in step 1 with its screws.

Removed 7 screws holding "inner door" in place ( note: 2 bottom screws are different than the rest...keep separate).....remove rinse aid plug....press "tabs" inward to release rinse aid container. ( in this instance....the gasket had failed...which was "part" of the reason dishwasher was leaking during operation)

install new rinse aid container ...making sure that "trip arm" is positioned correctly........and press into place. ( Tabs should expand when container is properly positioned...creating a tight seal).....reuse old rinse aid filler plug.

Replace "inner door" cover....tighten screws.....

remove faulty tub corner baffles....place new ones in corresponding positions ( the baffles form a suction .....to stay in place....no adhesive needed)

Close door and operate as usual........no more leaks!

This is a super easy "no brainer"...that would have cost about half the price of a new dish washer ...had I hired a "professional" to do the repairs!!!!