36588 (P1108402W) Litton Refrigerator - Instructions

Snapped the large end of the coupling onto the main line coming from the water source and snapped the other end onto the small line leading to the ice maker. Quick and simple.

I unplugged the fridge. Loosened the 2 top screws on the ice maker and removed the lower screw. I disconnected the wiring harness and removed the Ice maker. I removed the plastic timer cover in front. I then loosened the screws on the face of the ice maker and removed the broken ice stripper and replaced it with a new one. Re-tightened the screws on the face, installed the timer cover, plugged in the wiring harness, re-attached the ice maker. Plugged the fridge back in and walla, it was making ice in 30 minutes!

The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

The icemaker unit comes right off, only 3 screws hold it in place, so it was a breeze replacing it. I probably saved a couple hundred bucks by doing it myself, thanks to the great service at partselect.com.

Shut water off at source, disconnect electrical supply at wall, remove screws retaining cardboard dust cover, and remove cover. Removed water supply line to control valve, remove two screws retaining unit to frame of refrigerator, and gently pull out unit. Remove two water lines, making sure to note where each line was connected to unit. Remove two electrical connectors, making sure to note where each line was connected, remove old valve. Noting where mounting bracket is positioned, remove old mounting bracket from valve, and reinstall bracket on new valve the same way. Coat threads lightly on new valve with vaseline, reinstall valve in reverse order, making sure not to over-tighten water connections. Note, before installing dust cover, reconnect wall power, and turn on water and inspect for leaks, at connections. Tighten leaking connections very slightly until leak stops. Reinstall dust cover, and carefully return refrigerator to it's original location.

Removed door. Removed old cam closure assembly. Noticed that there was almost nothing inside the door for screw to screw into(only styrofoam insulation), which is why original screw backed out. Bad design. Got longer screw at bigger diameter. Pushed high strength glue into hole, on screw threads, and underneath screw head. Assembled. Crossed fingers. About three weeks have passed and so far, so good.

(1) Removed the three screws which attached the ice maker to the freezing compartmnet wall in refrigerator; (2) Disconnected the power to the old ice maker; (3) Removed the old ice maker from the freezing compartment of the refrigerator; (4) Took the white front cover off of the old ice maker; (5) Disconnected the wiring harness from the old ice maker; (6) Removed the "ice making-stop arm" from the old ice maker; (7) Placed the items taken from old ice maker on to the new ice maker; (8) Reconnected the new ice maker to the power; (9) Placed the new ice maker in the proper position in freezing compartment of refrigerator and replaced the three screws. JOB DONE!

Removed the hinge cover, removed three hinge screws, removed door. Then I used a screwdriver to pry out the hinge bushings, pushed the new ones in and replaced the door. Both Maytag and Lowe's (who held the extended warranty) said that the door was not a repairable item and would have to replace the whole door. Since that would cost more than the value of the fridge, they voided the warranty and returned my cost. Too bad we didn't know about Part Select, we would have held their feet to the fire.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.

Unplug
Remove entire back panel (both chipboard and metal fan grill)
Unscrew both fan mount plate screws - fan won't be able to come out because it is still plugged in
When looking at back of fridge, locate a small plastic box to the immediate left of the condenser. It's a circuit block. Release the metal spring clip holding the plastic cover in place, and trace the fan wire connections back to the fan. Make a note of which wire is connected to which terminal (1 of the fan wires has white lettering and 1 is just black)
Unplug both fan wire connects from circuit block to release the fan power cable.
Remove the fan mounting plate
Release fan blade clip by pressing fan against motor and unscrewing and remove fan blades
Unscrew motor from brackets - note alignment of motor on brackets
Mount new motor on brackets. Leave plug wire disconnected (replacement motor has a harnessed plug wire)
Connect new plug wire to the circuit block keeping wires connected to the proper terminals
Snake new plug wire behind condenser like the old wire was and run through cable bracket to the back right of the condenser
Plug wire harness into motor and re-mount fan mount plate
Reattach fan blade and secure using blade mount kit
Replace back panels

I removed the screws and pulled the unit out a few inches. The wiring harness was difficult to disconnect since I did not know how it was being held in place. Once I did get it disconnected I saw there was a tab that had to be depressed. There was an access hole for depressing the tab but I did not see it until I had the unit removed. The instructions only say disconnect the harness, but not how. So I learned the hard way, damaging the harness.

I pulled the refrigerator out, and turned off the water valve at the wall. I then removed 3 screws at the bottom of the back panel so I could access the water inlet value. I compared the new part with the part on my refrigerator to make sure they were the same. They were.

Using a pair of adjustable pliers, and placing a small pan under it to catch the water in the line, I loosened and removed the water line.

I then removed the wires connected to the water inlet valve, noting how they were connected. I then removed the 2 screws holding the water inlet valve in place, and removed the old inlet valve.

I put the new inlet valve in place, and making sure to hook up the ground wire, replaced the 2 screws to hold the inlet valve in place. I reconnected the wires, and then the water line.

I turned the water supply on at the wall and checked for leaks. I then tried the water dispenser and it now worked perfectly. I tried it a few more times and then checked again for water leaks.

Replaced the 3 screw holding the back cover on, and pushed the refrigerator back into place.

Mission accomplished, and saving at least $75!