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Models > 36291112004 > Instructions

36291112004 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 36291112004 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 36291112004
16-30 of 269
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inner glass on door broken

  • Customer: Christy from Mountain Center, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it.
I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.

Oven rack missing when I purchased the house

  • Customer: Patricia from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

My son was cooking and saw a flash through the oven door.

  • Customer: Bryson from Eagle River, AK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the instructions online, very simple, quick and painless.

Broiler Element Wouldn't Heat

  • Customer: Ranse from Layton, UT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The broiler uses two male slip-on connectors that attach to two wires with female connectors in the stove. When removing the broiler element, I discovered that one of the two wires was burned in half specifically where the wire crimped to the female connector. This is abnormal and raised some concern. However, I deduced that the terminal crimp from the factory must have been defective and the wire nicked or cut in order to produce enough heat at that point for the wire to burn and fail. The female crimp terminal is a special, solid right angle design that I was unable to locate locally even at an electrical wholesale distributor. A straight terminal connector was used and crimped after stripping a new section of the wire. Heat will melt solder. You must use a high quality crimp connector and tool. The connector was then very carefully angled down slightly to maintain a safe distance from the back shield of the stove to the wire when in place. The new broiler works fine. There was likely nothing wrong with the old one. Just a wiring issue.

Lower Element Quit Working

  • Customer: Frank from Sasakwa, OK
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I spent more time turning off the breaker and opening the door than replacing the element.

Nut driver to remove the 2 screws, NN Pliers to remove the leads, remove the element and reverse the process.

Hope this isn't copyrighted..... so easy, a caveman could do it!

Oven gasket pulled from clips.

  • Customer: John from Clayton, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old gasket and pried out clips with screwdriver. Installed new gasket.

Part looked alike but did not fit

  • Customer: Klaus from Truckee, CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
The hinge mechanism in the back of the range top, could not be fitted to the new part. I needed to enlarge a couple of seat holes on the underside in the front portion of the new part to make it seat securely enough so the hinge mechanism could be safely deleted. (The new top is now simply sitting on the range, without hinge in the back).
More care should have been used to identify the correct top for the exact model and serial number of the range. Even though I had communicated those numbers when I ordered the part, and the picture looked like the correct part, the problem arose.

Broiler element was burned out

  • Customer: Ursula from Suffolk, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After turning the power off to the range, it was as simple as removing the screws for the broiler itself and the bracket and plugging in the new element. Yes, it was that easy.

The bake element burned out

  • Customer: Phillip from Raymond, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I unpluged the unit from the recepticle, then unscrewed the back panal from the oven. I removed the to wire connections from the bake element and then removed the two screws from the element itself. I removed the element and did exactly the sae in reverse to install the new unit.

Terminal block melted

  • Customer: J. Michael from Westfield, NC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.

Needed extra oven space

  • Customer: noreen from flushing, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

end caps on range were cracked

  • Customer: James from Federal Way, WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I was surprised to find that the 2 screws holding on the plastic end caps were not philips. it looked like an allen wrench deal but that didn't work. Turned out that I had to buy a hex tool. Looked kinda like a swiss army knife but had allen wrench like hex tools in various sizes. By then I was determined to finish the job even if it meant buying a tool I'd never use again. The job took about five minutes once I had the right tool. The stove looks normal now. The stove looks brand new but for some reason there were cracks in the end caps where the screw hole were.

The drawer support broke.

  • Customer: Cindy from Golden Valley, ND
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the screw from the broken piece and put the new piece on and put the screw on.

Loss of thermostatic control on oven.

  • Customer: joihn from ST FRANCISVLE, LA
  • Difficulty: Very Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the back plate and uninstalled the existing oven thermostat. the process of installation was just as easy as removal. the operation was successful and my wife was happy. (I won)

Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard

  • Customer: James from Tarpon Springs, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
All Instructions for the 36291112004
16-30 of 269