31203PAV Magic Chef Range - Instructions

If you watched the video on installing the part it IS that easy. The connector piece matched exactly with what my oven already had so it was as simple as disconnecting the old piece and plugging in the new piece. There was no hidden challenges or obstacles to overcome. The oven works perfectly fine there was a slight smell when I first turned on the oven but I am attributing that to a new part. The smell did go away. I am 24 years old and a female who has limited knowledge in electrical/oven work.

TOOK OVEN BOTTOM APART AND LOSSENED OLD IGNITERTHEN WENT TO BACK OF OVEN TOOK BACK OFF DISCONETED OLD IGNITER PULLED THE NEW THUR AND CONNECTED PUT BACK ON THEN ATTACHED FROM THE FRONT PUT OVEN BACK TOGATHER THEN TURNED OVEN ON IT WORKED I DID IT MYSELF I AM 64 YEAR OLD WOMEN

Removed grill and set aside, then removed burner with a 1/4 counter clock twist. Removed ground wire and igniter wire from burner. Set to side in order taken off. Remove the two screws on the panel that is on the back of the unit and slide it up and set it aside. Removed screws from side decorative panels each side (one top and one bottom) and slide panel toward the rear to remove from notch slot. Then removed the two screws on each side and back to remove top of range. On the side there are two screws together towards the rear, the one towards the front of the range need to be removed. Then removed four screws that held the pan under the range top that were screwed into the gas line supports. Then removed the two screws from rear that held the pan in place. Remove the pan and set aside. Lift the right gas line burner support up. Remove ground bottom, hot wires upper and igniter wires from spark module. Pop module out and replace with new one. Reverse process to complete repair. Cause that the wires do not get under the pan when reinstalling same

The ignitor is held on by two screws which were rusted in place. When I tried to remove them, the screws became stripped and had to be cut off.

Once the part was free, the rest of the repair went quickly . At that point:
- Pull the element leads enough to get to the plastic connector
- Disconnect the old part
- Connect the new part
- Re-attach to the bracket with new screws.

The repair was a no brainer - twist to release the old burner - disconnect the spark wires. connect the spark wires on the new unit - drop it in and twist to lock - about 2 minute job

I used a pipe wrench to turn the old burner off and removed the crumbling washer underneath- no need to replace this. I took off the 2 wires, crimped them onto the new burner, twisted it back into place and presto- all fixed!

First I want thank you for being there for me . If it wasn't for you I would be having thanksgiving at my mother inlaw first iremoved the two screwsthat holds thy element in place. I then pulledthe element out about 3 in and disconnected the two wires . It's easy as 1. 2. 3

I researched the stories on Partsselect, and it looked like this would be a simple repair. Fortunately, it was more simple than I'd thought. We bought the house (and stove) used, and the ignitor apparently had been replaced before, because the part was an EXACT replacement for the old one. I simply unscrewed the two screws holding the old ignitor onto the bracket/burner, pulled the wiring from the back of the oven through the insulation, disconnected the snap connector, reattached the new one. Then I pushed the wiring back through the insulation and added some additional insulation (provided with the part), making sure all extra length was pushed into the insulation. Reattached with two screws using a nut driver, replaced the bottom pan in the oven, slid the door back on its two hinges and started it up. Works perfectly. Thanks Partselect. You guys are great and I had the replacement my mail in about 5 working days!

slide latches in rear of floor panel forward and remove.

removed 2 screws and unpluged ingiter plug ed new igniter in replaced screws and worked fine

took out both racks and under tray at bottom of stove no tools required.
used a nut driver to remove both screws holding ignighter in place ,pulled wires up gentily and remove from standard clip by pushing ends in.
clip new ignighter in place push wires down again and install 2 screws . put all back together and it works like new .

1. Closed gas valve at stove supply outlet.
2. Unplugged stove electrical connection
3. Unplugged electrical connections to defective valve
4. Removed 4 screws on burner side of heat heat shield
5. Disconnected gas inlet to defective valve
6. Removed 2 screws holding valve retainer to bottom of unit
7. Lifted gas burner inlet tube while pushing valve toward rear of unit - - - (a bit tricky)
8. Removed valve from rear by tilting forward so valve outlet clear the burner inlet tube and heat shield. Heat shield is not removed, but must be raised enough to allow passage of the valve outlet protrusion.
9. Installed new valve by repeating the preceding steps in reverse.
10. Reconnected gas and electrical, and checked performance

The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.

New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.