Models > 30-2272-23-01 > Instructions

30-2272-23-01 Tappan Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 30-2272-23-01
31 - 45 of 236
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Igniter replacement
Burner set screws froze up, was able to break 2 of 3 free and broke 3rd off. Used new simular screws to re- thread and fasten burner back in place. Bit of work but everything working. Used oppertunity to clean and re-level while I was at it. Everything good to go.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Igniter Electrode
  • David from Livingston, MT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Insulation was missing
Apparently, the original insulation had been removed due to a mouse infestation-the unit had been in storage for a while. After removing about 50 screws, I had all the body panels off and cleaned out the interior of the stove then installed the new insulation. I put it all back together and hooked it up- works just like new. I only paid 60 bucks for this oven, so all in all, not a bad deal.
Parts Used:
Insulation Wrap
  • Bryan from Holland, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven racks rusted
Ordered new racks and replaced them.
Parts Used:
Oven Rack
  • Wendell from Ocala, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
burner cap missing
ordered received and placed it on the stove!! it was that easy!
Parts Used:
Burner Cap
  • Eloise from Indianapolis, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
bad igniter electrode on rear left burner
If you intend to replace the igniter electrode ( part no. PS436633), purchase a minimum of twelve (12) top burner mounting screws ( part no. PS437925).

I also recommend that you replace all the electrodes since you have gone to the lengths described below to replace one igniter electrode.

After time, the heads of the mounting screws become brittle and break off when attempting to remove them with a 3/16" socket or nut driver.

Be aware that even the new screws are not exactly 3/16 hex, nor do they truly accept a 4.5 mm, or 5 mm socket. The 5 mm has to much slop, and the 4.5 mm, and 3/16" do not fully seat over the head.

First unplug the stove, and turn off the gas.

To remove the broken screws, I had to use a hand grinder to grind the heads off (you could be as careful as possible, but you will still damage the porcelain finish of the range top.) Unfortunately every screw has to be removed to lift the range top up enough to gain access to the electrode(s).

Along with the broken screws being in the burner casting, to replace the electrode, you have to remove the burner to work on it. Remove the insulated wire from the electrode, and then the gas line to the burner.

I recommend inspection of the insulated wires to see if they may be grounding out to the stove body. With the top removed and the burners still in place, plug the range back in. Turn any knob on (all electrodes should spark at the burner accept the bad one(s)). Observe the wires to see if there is sparking to the stove body. If there is none, continue to replacement instructions. If a wire is sparking to the body, wrap the damaged wire with HEAT RESISTANT tape. Standard vinyl electrical tape won't withstand the heat.

To remove the burner from the gas line, use a 1/2" open end wrench (preferably a tubing nut wrench) to remove the gas line along with an adjustable wrench to hold the burner to prevent damaging the gas line.

If your lucky, the cross point (Phillips head) screw that secures the electrode will remove without stripping, but don't count on it. I had to grind those screw heads off as well.

I used a size no. 30 cobalt drill in my drill press to attempt to remove the broken off screws, but because of the screw/drill size, I could not keep the bit on the hardened screw center, it kept walking off center. I ground the screws flush to the burner surface, used a center point drill, a center punch, and a spring loaded set point punch, nothing worked to keep the bit from wandering off center and into the soft metal casting.

I had to drill new holes with the no. 30 drill bit just to the right (or left) of the existing holes. Keep the same orientation and mounting distance when drilling, either to the right or to the left.

The new burner mounting screws did not work for mounting the electrode to the burning, I used small no. 6 self tapping screws to mount the new electrodes to the burner casting (the washer head was to large).

Reconnect the gas line(s) to the burner(s). It will be necessary to carefully bend the gas lines so as to line the new holes up with the top when remounting the burner(s).

If I had it to do over again, I would just donate the range as is, while explaining the problem to the donation center. After my experience, I personally don't think it is worth the trouble of replacing the electrodes on a range this old.

Hope this helps.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Igniter Electrode
  • Michael from SHELBYVILLE, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Gas Oven did not come on. Broiler worked.
Removed oven door. (Open to first position then lift the door straight up). Located igniter in bottom of oven, followed connecting wires to connection block below oven behind the oven drawer. Disconnected the existing wires. Lifted the burner out of oven to disconnect defective igniter. Screws were fused to the burner. Used vice grips to remove screws requiring the screw holes to be retapped. Bought new screws to replace trashed screws. Installed new igniter to the burner rail then set burner rail back in place. Fished the leads from new igniter back down to connector block. Reinstalled leads. Reinstalled oven door. Tested functionality of oven. Everything worked. Reinstalled metal plates back in oven. Reinstalled cover over connection block behind bottom drawer. Reinstalled drawer. With the exception of fighting with two screws fused to the burner rail it is a very straightforward repair and shouldn’t take much more than 1/2 hour.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter
  • Charles from STAR, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven Igniter stopped working
First I turned off the circuit breaker to the oven. Then, I removed the base of the oven (the oven floor) by easily removing two screws. I also removed the flame guard by removing a screw. That easily exposed the old oven igniter. I removed the two small screws that held that in place. The igniter is connected by two wires, which you'll have to snip. Snip those very close to the igniter (leave about an inch of wire on the igniter). Using a wire stripper, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath of the existing wires. On the new igniter, snip the wires leaving about 2 inches still connected to the igniter. Using the wire stippers, remove about 1/2 inch of the outer sheath. Using the plastic wire caps that came with the new igniter, connect the wires from the oven to the corresponding wire on the new igniter. Screw the new igniter back in place. Replace the flame guard and oven floor. Turn on the circuit breaker and start cooking again!
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter
  • Brian from San Francisco, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Replace Knobs
I'll be happy to tell you "my repair story!" I was so happy to find a site that carried the knobs for my Tappan range. I called Sears, where we purchased the stove some 15 years ago, and was told that the only way to get new knobs from them was to purchase a "completely new unit" - or in other words, a new stove!!! With nothing being wrong with my stove, I began searching online for a site that sold knobs and found the PartSelect.com site. I was very happy with the service that I received, but thought that the stove knobs were grossly over priced!! I also thought that it was strange that you would send 1 knob at a time, but as long as I got them all, I'm happy. Thank you.
Parts Used:
Thermostat Knob
  • Karen from Davenport, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Refrigerator Light bulb went out
I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb
  • ANGELA from MEBANE, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old racks had melted plastic on them.
It was a replace racks not repair. No problem
Parts Used:
Oven Rack
  • James from PAINESVILLE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
replacing oven racks
The replacement racks were spot on and the service was outstanding. had the racks in 2 days. Happy Happy Joy Joy! :)
Parts Used:
Oven Rack
  • Lawrence from Elmira, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The thermostat on my oven no longer worked
I repaired with the use of 1 Phillips & 1 flathead screwdriver. It was very easy.
Parts Used:
Oven Thermostat - 125V 60Hz
  • Renita from CHICAGO, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Ignitor glows but not hot enough to open the gas valve. It's old.
My Tappan Tail:

Open the oven and remove the racks, turn on the oven light.
Remove two screws in the back to remove the bottom plate. Mine are about 1 1/4 in. long.
Remove one nut holding the butterfly plate in place. Ignitor will be exposed.

Turn off the oven light and unplug oven. Don't drop the plug behind the oven, I was ready for that one.
Drop light or flash light will be needed, it's dark in there. And something to sit on, 16" old plastic milk caddy, I just happen to have one.

Remove the two screws holding the ignitor, don't cut the wires just yet. Take note where the wiring runs. Install the new ignitor. My wires went behind the gas piping.

I cut the bottom wire from the old ignitor first, up close to the ceramic. Wire shield can be reused, slide it over the new wire. Cut the old wire, leave a lot. Trim the new wire to desired length and strip the ends of both and use the ceramic cap and connect the wires.
Do the top wire.
Slide the wire shield next to the igniter, adjust the wires so the wire shields won't slide away from ignitor. With the butterfly shield back in place it's time to plug it in and give it a test.
Nice.
Replace the bottom plate of oven, screw holes hard to find. Had to use an awl to find the holes to line up the screws. I also didn't push the front of the plate down into place until I had the screws started. It helped.

You might think this is overkill, but how many of us have ever replaced the ignitor. Not me.
I do a lot of DIY's. I'll rate this as a 1, easy.

What shall I bake first, cornbread of course. I my cast iron skillet.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter
  • Kenneth from MESQUITE, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
gas oven won't light
get liquid wrench, remove oven door(2 screws) remove oven bottom(2 screws) follow directions included with part. unplug or shut off electricity at breaker panel, Have a good light source.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter
  • James from GRASS VALLEY, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
oven very slow on heating up up to five minutes to ignite.
First removed oven racks then two screws to remove oven door, removed two screw of oven fan cover, ( need to remove fan cover to have clearance to removed bottom cover of oven) removed bottom cover of oven, then removed two screws holding oven igniter and cut wires of old igniter then spliced wire of new igniter to existing wire and reassemble in reverse order.
Parts Used:
Flat Style Oven Igniter
  • manny from oakland, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
All Instructions for the 30-2272-23-01
31 - 45 of 236