25311531101 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

After building a test box and determining the Controller was bad simply ordered parts and installed. Installation was a little difficult due to locking spades on electrical connections.

Unplug all power from freezer. Remove Bail wire from controller capacitor unit and remove from compressor by pulling STRAIGHT from compressor body to avoid bending contacts.

Use a very small instrumentation screwdriver to release locking spade on yellow and white wires. To unlock slide screwdriver in slot along wire entry to controller body while gently pulling on wire. Note position of wires and replace on new unit in same position/order. Plug new run capacitor into new controller being careful to orient capacitor to proper position (hole matches guide on controller unit). Plug newly installed controller and capacitor into condensor and replace bail wire.

Make sure timer is not in defrost mode - manually advance timer if necessary to ensure timer is in run mode. Turn temperature control to coldest setting. Plug in and hopefully enjoy the humming noise of your newly repaired and operational compressor and freezer.

I bought the freezer second hand, When I really started using it all the time it was inconvenient for the single items to reach down in three feet of larger frozen items.

I went to a store to see about getting a basket, They told me the next time I was there, get them the model number and they would see what they could do.

I just came home and got the model number and put name of the freezer in the search engine, Bingo it was done and I win.

Only took a couple days and my new basket was here. I am so pleased I ordered a second one.

I removed all of the expandable pins that held the gasket and the inner door panel, and removed the old gasket from the inner door panel. The new gasket was then placed around the edges of the inner panel. While holding the gasket and panel in the proper location, the expandable pins were inserted into the mounting holes, finishing the installation.

Very simple repair. Removed the bail that holds the compressor controller and run capacitor from the compressor, removed the controller & capacitor, inserted a very small screwdriver into the controller to compress the barbs that hold the electrical wires to the controller. Plugged in the wires to the new controller in the same position as the original, plugged in the capacitor and then plugged the entire unit back onto the compressor, replaced the wire bail, plugged in the freezer and repair was complete.

First I removed the clamp, pulled out the part, and diconnected the two wires on the side and a small screw. Reconnected the new part with the small screw, connected the wires and plugged the part back to the side of the motor. Whaa La, Done.

Remove the 6 screws with a 5/16 inch nut driver. Make sure the lid gasket is in full contact all the way around. Remove any ice interfering with the lid gasket mating properly. Install new hinge using the original screws. Have somebody hold up the lid and tighten the spring nut with a deep 1/2 inch socket gradually until the lid stays up by itself.

Opened mailer and bag and place the drain plug into the drain. fit perfectly. In fact it is better than the one lost since the original needed a screwdriver or tool to remove the plug. This one has a flang or finger turner on it so that it can be removed. Also, does not interfere with items in bottom of freezer.

Used the flat edge of a screwdriver, which caused me to break off the corners of the plastic shield. Be nice if their was a tool to grab the anchors to pull them out

Unplugged the freezer. Located the Run Capacitor (next to the compressor). Removed the wire holding bracket, removed the Run Capacitor from the Start Relay. Installed the NEW Capacitor, re-installed the holding bracket. Plugged the unit in, looking at the display for the proper start-up sequence data. All is good - freezer operating for another 10+ yrs. NOTE: When removing the Run Capacitor, beware the COMPRESSOR could be HOT to the touch.

Defrosted freezer, hose broke due to dry-rot. Used towels to let water drain into pan. Now with the plug minimal frost build-up. No ice at all. Now if I could get a new hose to drain the water that would be great.

I paid attention to how the old part came off. You need a small (very small) flat bladed screwdriver to release the two wires that plug into the controller. I checked that it was a bit difficult but it would had been easier if I could have found a screwdriver sooner.

1. Ensure that the power is completely removed from the freezer. 2. Using needle-nose pliers and a screw driver, remove the wire retainer holding the controller assembly to the compressor and remove the controller assembly by pulling away from the compressor. 3. Cut the two wires from the existing controller assembly and strip the ends about a quarter of an inch. 4. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the wires of the connector provided with the controller kit. 5. Use the Blue Barrel connectors provided with the controller kit to connect the controller wires provided in the kit to the existing wires of the freezer. **Ensure that they are well crimped. 6. Using a heat gun, shrink the tubing to fit over the connector and wires. **Be careful not to overheat. 7. Plug the connector into the new controller provided in the kit. 8. Plug the controller assembly back into the socket on the compressor. 9. Reattach the wire retainer securely to hold the controller assembly to the compressor. 10. Plug in the freezer and adjust the thermostat so that the compressor energizes. If the controller was the issue your freezer should begin to cool.

Since everything about the freezer was working, I decided it had to be the temperature control. I ordered the part from Parts Select on a Monday and it arrived on Tuesday. I removed the two screws that hold the panel that covers the parts. The control was right there. Two more screws and it was out. Reverse the operation to install the new part and just like that in less than 5 minutes my freezer was running like new.