1VET27DKXGW0 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

This was an easy repair just simply removed a handful of screws to remove the back and top panels making the fan motor accessible. The whole job took about 30 minutes.

1. Removed part from packaging. 2. Cleaned part with foodsafe cleaners. 3. Rinsed thoroughly. 4. Dried thoroughly to prevent frost. 5. Placed bin in freezer. 6. Turned on ice maker. 7. Waited. 8. Discarded first batch to clear supply line. 9. Waited. 10. Enjoyed ice. 11. Provided these inductions.

It would have been nice to know which booklet to read and why send to water valves,with out saying something about an extra vavle. After checking holes to see which valve to use the rest of the installation went fine. Most of the time was figureing which set on instructions were for our refrigeator

Replaced the fill valve on the back of refrigerator took about 15 min. We had that night

Thanks to some reviews we found online about replacing gaskets, ours went very smoothly. One person said to soak the gasket in hot water, which we did til it was very soft. Installed like a breeze. Then, the same person said to tape the door closed after installation, we did that too. The gasket looks like it was professionally installed and we have never done it before. Thanks!

removed the old unit and put in the the new one, no other parts were needed

I followed instructions, both supplied with gasket, and some I found on-line. Pretty easy - loosen screws holding existing gasket, remove existing gasket, install new one, tighten screws. [TIP - I didn't soak new gasket in hot water before installing - definitely do this to get rid of the "wrinkles" caused by shipping. Throw it in a tub, and let it soak.] The problems I had to iron out were AFTER I installed new gasket. Door alignment shifted, so I loosened all gasket screws, realigned, and then tightened. Then door was not closing (it had dropped for some reason at the handle side), so I had to loosen hinge bolts, push up door, and re-tighten. I had to do this 3 times before door closed right. I also had to heat two sections of the new gasket with blow dryer to smooth gasket. After about two days, the gasket was sealing perfectly. No condensation in fridge, no leaking out bottom. I estimate by putting in a $100 gasket, I saved over $1,500 because my wife was ready to get brand new fridge. Good luck, and be patient if door needs to be realigned. Also - gasket may still have small gaps even after you install and heat it - give it a few days to conform to fridge before trying heat again.

be sure the power cable is NOT plugged into an electrical outlet - removed the cover on the bottom rear of the refrigerator - using a flat blade screw driver pry the cover off the side of the compressor - remove the old relay - remove the wires from the old relay and install them on the new relay in the same location - install the new relay on the compressor connections - snap the cover back on the compressor - replace the cover - power the refrigerator on - the compressor should start and run normally

tested that water got to inlet valve, but not past it. the rod inside the pump was separated from the plunger. i ordered part. i was quite impressed that i got part within two days. replaced valve. ice maker works.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

disconnected el. power to fridge. pried out broken switch with small screwdriner and pulled out w/water pump pliers. installed new switch and pressed into opening.