1CWTW5505VQ0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

1. Read a repair manual that I bought several years ago for this model. Pictures and notes for removing control panel and back cover of washer were very helpful. Replacing the lid switch was easy as long as you have the lid open when locking it down. The control valve was easy and I swapped out wires one at a time to make sure I didn't swap hot for cold. I then removed valve and locked down new one. Reversing the control panel and back skin were easy with a second set of hands to hold the back panel in place while installing two bottom screws. The parts resolved the problems.

While taking apart my washing machine to clean the plastic basket I discovered the 3 main seals down the agitator were completely disintegrated and water was leaking onto the motor and onto the floor. The seals are a tight fit but slide into place easily with lubrication. When putting everything back together a bit of lubrication will be necessary as well. The leak is gone and my nearly 30 year old washer is working as well as the day it came off of the assembly line.

diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

just like video showed really helpfull

After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

The water pump had a small leak when washing clothes, and my wife was nagging me about it. I know men, youwere shocked that I said nagging and wife in the same sentence. Me being a man, I would have just left it since it is in the laundry room in the carport.

I turned the washer on its side and felt where the leak was on the pump, went inside and ordered the new pump. It was here in 2 days and it took 15 mins to put it back on with only a screwdriver to snap off the retainers and pliers to undo two hoses.

I told my woman that it was fixed and we have lived happily ever after and we played Appliance Repair Man and I was paid very well for the "House Call" if you know what I mean!!!!!

I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

Disconnected old power cord inside control cabinet, removed strain relief , then removed damaged power cord. Reinstalled new cord with new strain relief.

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

The only tricky part was figuring out how to get to the part. There were only two screws that seemed likely candidates to pop off the control panel (on the back at the corners). Fortunately for me the obvious answer was the right one...the panel lifted up and the new part went in - very easy.

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.