19885(1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

This repair is very simple. Partselect.com sells a repair kit for this problem that you can use but for simplicity the entire unit is not that much more. First remove the four outside lower philips head screws on the inside of your dishwasher door. Support outer door panel while removing screws. This will remove the outer door panel to gain access to the detergent cup. Remove panel by pulling out bottom first then slightly pulling downward. You will then see the detergent cup. Unplug the two leads that are connected to the unit keeping in mind their orientation. Remove the five screws that hold the detergent cup in place. Remove the cup assembly and gasket. Clean gasket area and install new cup and gasket. Reinstall five screws (do not overtighten) and plug leads back in. To reinstall door panel position door panel at a slight angle and install top first sliding upward into place under control panel then push inward at bottom. Reinstall the four philips head screws on the inside and you are finished. The complete repair will take you less than 30 minutes.

I would recommend getting the entire unit. I could have replaced the electrical component only, but the other parts were deteriorating.

I removed the 4 screws in the lower side of the door and removed the front.

I lossened the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. This was done with a small hex wrench.

I replaced the dispenser and connected the wires back onto the electrical sensor.

I put the front back on the door and tested the repair. Worked fine

I will be replacing the door gasket next. I found evidence of leakage when I removed the front of the door to replace the detergent cup.

After nearly 20 years of use (and no service) my Maytag dishwasher stopped getting dishes clean. I called Maytag and they made me an appointment with a nearby service center. The Maytag person also suggested I do a run with an open container in the dishwasher filled with a couple of cups of white vinegar – since that dissolves the white scale buildup from hard water. That helped a lot. Yay Maytag!

I had 5 days to wait for service, so I started Googling. I found very negative reviews of my local service center, but I also learned that I could buy a replacement detergent dispenser online and I found excellent simple instructions for installing it. It arrived in two days and I installed it. The hardest part was removing the front panel of the dishwasher to get access and supporting it while taking out the last couple of screws – then holding it in place afterwards while putting the screws back in. I recommend having a second pair of hands!

I also realized that the two rotating spray arms (at the bottom and at the top) weren’t rotating! They’re easy to remove (just unscrew the center component), and I found that many of the holes were clogged – including all the ones pointing sideways that make them spin. I had to force water inwards through the holes to dislodge the debris, then I filled the arms with water through the center hole and sloshed it around to clear things out. That worked. I put it back together – and the dishwasher is now as good as new!

For good measure I took the cover off the strainer in the bottom to clean it, but surprisingly the strainer was almost completely clean.

I cancelled the service appointment, of course. I’m sure I saved a lot of $$$.

I had read that recently mandated reformulation of dishwasher detergent with lower phosphate content makes it less effective – but I’m not seeing that: a little simple maintenance and my dishes are 100% squeaky clean again!

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.

Just as everybody explained, 4 screws for the door panel, 6 screws for the dispenser, out and in, 15 minutes!!! There are plenty of screws on the door but, once i knew i was looking for 4 screws, it was a cinch!!! Thanks for that tip. All my appliances are the same age so i 'll be back to this site again!!

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

Removed front panel by removing four screws. Used 5/16 nut driver to remove six screws holding dispenser and disconnected two wires. Inserted new dispenser and reattached cover. Longest time taken was to realign cover properly. Best approach seemed to install with door as near vertical as possible and to start screws by hand. ONLY FOUR screws hold the panel in place. Very easy repair for anyone. part arrived sooner than expected.