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Models > 14888W0 > Instructions

14888W0 General Electric Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 14888W0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 14888W0
31-45 of 297
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oven door jammed,could not open it

  • Customer: Richard from Winchester, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.

Oven would not light

  • Customer: LOUIS from PORT MONMOUTH, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven base plate by removing 2 screws and lifting out of oven. Pulled out bottom drawer and disconnected two wires from igniter. Removed 2 screws connecting burner to oven wall. Back to oven inside, and removed screw holding burner to oven bottom. Took burner out if oven. Removed 2 screws securing igniter to burner. Secured new igniter to burner. Reversed steps to put all parts back. Oven works fine.

Oven would not start. Ignitor did not glow.

  • Customer: Michael from Tucson, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed oven door.
2. Removed shelves.
3. Removed oven bottom.
4. Removed pan drawer.
5. Removed the 2 burner mounting nuts at back of oven pan drawer opening.
6. Removed top burner nut.
7. Pulled igniter out from top.
8. Snipped igniter wires.
9. Removed igniter from burner
10. Attached new ignitor wires with the enclosed wire nuts.
11. Attached new igniter to burner.
12. Replaced burner.
13. Pushed excess wire out of the oven through opening at back of pan drawer.
14. Reinstalled burner mounting nuts at back of drawer.
15. Reinstalled burner nut at top of burner
16. Reinstalled oven bottom, oven door and pan drawer.

Oven did not warm up / ignite

  • Customer: GILBERT from MEDINA, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.

The oven burner would not ignite

  • Customer: Robert from Fallbrook, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.

everything worked on the stove except for the oven

  • Customer: Donald from Elkhart, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.

Broiler would not ignite.

  • Customer: Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?

The oven door would not open all the way

  • Customer: Gary from St. Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
After tilting the oven door out and sliding it up to remove it, I slid the storage drawer our completely from the range. After removing the spring that held the hinge assembly under tension, I removed 3 phillips head screws that held the existing assembly in place and removed it. After verifying the part you sent was an exact match, I reinstalled the new part, fastened the screws, attached the tension spring, installed the storage drawer, and then slid the oven door back in place on the brackets, completing the repair.

Oven did not heat

  • Customer: Thomas from Middlebury, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.

The oven igniter burned out.

  • Customer: Michael from Las Vegas, NV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I rempved the top and bottom doors, than the wire rackes followed by the bottom base of the oven. Then I removed the burner cover plate so I could get to the igniter.. I removed the cover plate for the wiring (2 wires), unpluged them, removed the igniter (2 screws). I had to cut the wires on the old igniter and couple the ends to the new igniter and then replaced everything by just reversing all that I did. Simple! Easy!

Igniter coil burned out

  • Customer: Chuck from Los Angeles, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

hinge on oven door was broken, so oven wouldn't shut

  • Customer: Cecilia from Cranbury, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Lifted door off the front of stove, real easy, but heavy, took out old hinge, and replaced with new hinge, I just looked where everything was before, I replaced with new, replaced door back on, and I was finished.

Igniter stopped working

  • Customer: Arkady from Chicago, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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Over not lighting

  • Customer: Anthony from DeKalb, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the front door-lifted off(no tools) removed the floor of the oven (2 standard nuts at the rear). nut driver to remove the igniter. Took longest to untwist and retwist wires & dropped screws. reassembled and tested...worked perfice. this is the 4th time I've used Parts Select and It's great....Thanks and keep up the good work!

Oven would not light

  • Customer: Roger from Downingtown, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the bottom plate inside the stove by removing two back screws. The burner was exposed. roved a total of three screws on gas burner to remove the entire assembly. Removed two screws from the old igniter and then put new one on. Save the old connectors because they have unique connectors. Cut old wire and strip 3/8 inch of wire cover off. Using the supplied wire nuts. Caution use only supplied wire nuts because they are meant for heat. connect old wire to new wire of the new igniter. Reverse order of screws that you did for the job. That is it
All Instructions for the 14888W0
31-45 of 297