12-2299-00-06 Tappan Wall Oven - Instructions

It was pretty much a plug in. My husband had it done in a few minutes. I want to thank you for your great service with receiving the part.
The oven is working great and now I am back to baking.
Thanks for everything
Christy

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

This was a very easy project.
-First, I removed the two bolts holding the old igniter. Second, I clipped the wires then stripped them. Next, I connected the wires with the wire nuts. Finally, I attached the igniter with the old bolts. I plugged it back in, and it worked better than ever. My husband was very impressed that I repaired our stove myself!

Replaced the flat style oven igniter. Turn off gas and unplug oven. Removed the broiler drawer, cut wires, unscrewed oven igniter (using a small/medium adjustable wrench), connected wires, fastened new igniter to bracket, spliced wire, twisted together, plugged oven back in, turned gas on, turned on oven after a few minutes...worked great.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I made sure I memorized just how the wires would re-connect with the wirenuts. I then re-assembled everything. Be sure to read all the instructions, especially how to properly install wirenuts. I was able to access the wire connections below the oven chamber through the drawer at the bottom of the range. This is an important detail.

removed the old igniter, installed the new one. 15 minutes, piece o cake!

took the old igniter out and swapped the connectors onto the new one. Kept the connectors close to the connector end to prevent them from being to close to the ovens heat.

First, I read all the instrutions that came with my replacement part from Parts Select thoroughly (twice) then follewed them like an experienced surgeon. I removed the lower drawr after turning off the gas and unplugging the stove and then took out the bottom panels inside the oven to expose the screws holding the ignitor coil. Removed it, then cnnected the new one to the existing wires as they were in the stove and the drawing in the instructions, then replaced everything in the reverse of them coming apart. Plugged it back in, turned the gas back on and now it,ll bake things again. YEAH!! Parts Select!!!

I just sent in a generic description of my problem and a couple of ideas on what it might be. Within 2 days an online repair person answered me back with the solution. I ordered the part and 2 days later I was back in business and baking cookies.

1. Unplugged power cord.
2. Removed warming drawer and oven shelves and lower plate
3. Removed old wirenuts from back of warming draw space (awkward to reach in to the back).
4. Removed 2 screws holding ignitor in oven - screws in poor shape and were not reuseable.
5. Found next size up sheetmetal screws and installed new ignitor.
6. Ran wires down adjacent to gas feed into warming drawer space.
7. Connected with wirenuts supplied with ignitor.
8. Replaced everything.
9. Tested oven and ate some tasty blueberry muffins.

Removed the two screws, took out the old one and replaced the new one. It was very easy and the oven works great now. Thanks.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

followed posted repair procedure on Parts select site. . . straight forward and simple. . .

I removed the oven bottom which was held by two large head long screws. I then removed the heat deflector using a small socket. The only difficult part was when I went to replace the igniter. The screws that were holding it in place stripped I guess do to the amount of heat they were continually subject too. I had to apply pressure to the igniter bracket while removing the screw using a small socket. Even with that they did not come out easily. If I had not had trouble removing the screws the repair probably would have taken 15 min.