11076824695 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils.
Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts.
So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of needle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading.
I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart.
Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.

Removed the two screws that attatch the lent channel to the top of the dryer, then lifted the top of the dryer by pushing in on the two locking tabs located at the front , left and right , corners of the dryer top with a small flat head screw driver. The top of the dryer will fold back out of the way. At this point I removed the two 1/4 inch screws that are located on the inside of the dryer front left and right corners that hold the front panel/door to the two side panels. Now I was able to lift the front panel up and set it to the side. The bottom of the front panel that contains the dryer door that I just removed was held on the bottom by two clips that slide into slots on the front panel and did not require any removal to disconnect the bottom of the front panel, just pull up on the front panel. Since the tub was held in place by floating on a seal at the back of the dryer and a seal on the front panel , which I just removed the tub is now free floating except for the two alignment roller wheels at the bottom of the tub. It is easier if you lay the dryer on its back at this point with front of the tub pointing up. I pulled the tub out and cleaned the years of built up lent and removed all the pieces of the old , destroyed, belt. Note, the belt tentioner is located at the front of the motor which on the bottom right hand side. If your belt is broke like mine the tensioner may/will fall to the back of the dryer when you tilt it back, but do not worry. Once the dryer was cleaned up I put the tub back in place , still on its back and made sure the two alignment rollers were in place and rolled freely when the tub was turned by hand. Another note, my original belt tensioner did not have a rolling wheel that the belt rode on , but was a semi-circle smooth surface that the belt remained in constant friction with when the dyer was running, so I made sure the replacement tensioner I ordered with my new belt did have a rolling wheel that the belt would ride on, which I believe will reduce wear and extend the belt life. The new belt came with a diagram of the belt and tensioner routing which was helpful. Note: do not take the tensioner wheel off/apart when trying to route the belt. Follow the instructions routing diagram. The tensioner is held in palce by inserting the bottom back half into the slot in the bottom floor of the dryer making sure it is aligned with the belt pully on the shaft of the dryer motor. The dryer is still on its back side. Now, it was easier for me to route the belt around the center of the tub, following the marks from the original belt, and hold in in place in a few spots with masking tape and then route it thru the tensioner and onto the front pully of the motor. Make sure you have the grooves of the belt against the tub and the grooves are aligned with the pully on the motor. Now you can remove the masking tape that was holding the belt around the tub and spin the tub by hand watching the belt making sure it is not in a bind and is traveling around the motor pully , tensioner and tub freely. Make sure the tub is still sealed on the back side wall. As you turn the tub by hand you can adjust the belt by hand so that is following the original marks around the tub left by the orignal belt. Also double check the two alingment rollers and make sure they are spinning and on track. Now put the front panel with the door on by sliding it onto the two clips that are one the bottom at each side and put the two screws in that hold the front panel to the two side panels. Now stand the dryer back up and spin the tub by hand again making sure it has a good seal on the back side and on the front panel. Pull the top back down and put the two screws in that hold the lent channle to the top. I am not sure when the belt started failing on my dryer, but was amazed at how quiet it runs now. Guess I was use to the extra noise made by a dryer that was about to die. This was a cheap and easy repair and glad I did it myself.

Cleaning the lint out of the whole machine took quite a bit of time--it was everywhere. Underneath the lint trap was a collection that ultimately ruined the thermal fuse where it restricted the air flow considerably.

Ascertaining the problem was the most time consuming part.

The actual repair was quite simple and didn't take but 15-20 minutes.

Received your parts, Popped them both right into place, Even though only one side needed to be replaced, I wanted them to match up. It was amazing how easy this was. My husband was quite impressed I had ordered these rather then look for either a new or used dryer from some other source.

Repair was very easy. We are in the internet age so I use it all the time to get info on how to repair any thing in the house including cars. This time it was my dryer. I typed up 'Kitchen Aid dryer has not heat'and pressed searched and PartSelect came up. Typed in the model number and looked up the comments on No Heat. They had pretty cool site that shows videos on how to repair this things too. Came to conlclusion that the THERMAL FUSE was the main problem. Ordered it and as well as the Igniter assy just to make sure and as well as save on the shipping just in case. Ordered on Sunday night and the shipped the next day. It arrived on Tuesday. Unfortunately had a little problem on the shipment. Called PartSelect and they are so awesome they shipped me new parts asap at no extra charge. Awesome Awesome! Parts came in Thursday and first installed the Thermal Fuse and BAAAM! problem solved. Did not need the igniter assembly. Now I have an extra part in storage.
To replace the Thermal fuse.
1. Disconnect Dryer from power outlet. Remove the bolts on the back panel with a 1/4" socket. I used power drill because it is much faster.
2. Locate the Thermal Fuse. Disconnect wires and remove the bolt. Slide it up and pull. Install the new one and reconnect the wires. Replace the panel and plug the dryer.

That solved my problem. It should solve yours too. The whole process was less than five minutes.

First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then unscrew the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select

Removed some screws and partially dismantled the door so I could get the old catch out. Inserted the new catch, and put the screws back in. Saved me an $80+ service call.
On the filter, I had to use pliers to remove the old one because the handle had broken off. Did that, and inserted the new one. Done. Sears had been unable to supply me with a new filter.

The best part of my repair was I had everything back in service in 3 days. And one of these days was to consider just buying a new dryer. Had parts overnited and all parts fit and easy to replace.

1) Removed back - 6 screws
2) Removed dryer vent - 2 screws on top, 3 on bottom
3) Popped the top open
4) Removed Front of dryer cabinet - 2 screws
5) Removed Belt
6) Removed Drum
7) Cleaned up all lint
8) Pop off motor retainers front and back
Here is the tricky part for me.
9) Removed vent fan on back of motor.
I did not know that the back of the fan was square, and you could put an open ended wrench on it to hold it while you also have a vice grip on the front motor shaft. Then its a simple left to loosey operation. I first tryed to turn the fan blade to take it off, but proved to be to tight.
10) Repeat backwards to reassemble

While I had it apart I also replaced the Drum support rollers & Installed a new belt. Not that diffucult of a repair Good Luck, was certainly better than buying a new one at + $300.00 at Black Friday rates.

Followed electrical drawing from switch to motor, Thermal fuse was in the line and no power coming through it, removed wire and put together and tested, dryer turned on. Read statements from others at parts select and also bought thermostat because time stopped working last year. Installed both parts and cleaned dryer, works perfect including timer.

PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

When my dryer suddenly stopped functioning, without any prior signs of pending failure, I guessed that it had to be something simple, like a fuse. I did a google search and stumbled across a forum post that described the symptoms (wouldn't turn on), and the poster said that Whirlpool recommends replacing the thermostat whenever the fuse is replaced. The reason for this is that the likely cause of the fuse burning is that the thermostat is no longer properly regulating the temperature range of the heating element.

I disconnected the power source, and then I removed the back cover, and both parts were in plain view, so I simply replaced the wires one by one.

There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.

You open up the lint filter access door and remove the two small screws that hold it to the top of the dryer. Once they are removed, you insert a flat blade screwdriver under front-top of the unit and the top will pop off. Exerting a little pressure towards you will help lift to top off the mounts. There are no other screws to remove.
The new switch comes attached to a clip. You just pull off the old clip and replace it with the new one and discard the old switch.

I can't believe I waited so long to find this part and do this. I got the package very fast, opened it, took the piece to my dryer and popped it into place with my fingers. It worked perfectly! this took all of two minutes and saved me from having to hold the dryer door closed with a stick. Thank you, thank you!!!