11068072801 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Used putty knife to pry broken door catch off .... Snapped in new one. Took maybe two minutes !

The door catch dislodged in the door and apparently broke. The hardest part was getting it out of the door because in trying to remove it, the piece fell into the inside of the door. I could have easily just installed the new part (it snaps right in with great ease, that part took exactly 5 seconds). But hearing that old piece rattle around inside the door would have made me a little nuts. So I decided to take the door apart to retrieve it. It was just a bunch of screws from around the perimeter of the door, but I also had to unhinge it to do the job. Putting the door back together wasn't as easy as I had hoped, with some pretty tight fits and the glass dislodging. Had a few moments where I was regretting. But I got the old part out, snapped the new one right in. I'm sure an appliance guy would have charged me $60 - 90 just for coming out. Instead I repaired the dryer for the cost of a $3 part. One small lesson learned here -- dryer doors are much like refrigerator doors, or at least mine is. There is a door catch on both sides of the door so you can hinge it to open either way. I could have done the repair for nothing! But I love parts select for just this reason. I don't do major repairs, but replacing pieces on appliances couldn't be easier with this service!

Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.

Replaced Lint Screen

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

I did continuity tests on the on/off push switch and the thermostats - all were good. After some research I discovered the thermal switch which is somewhat hidden on top of the blower. Sure enough, it failed the continuity test. The two sheet metal screws are difficult to loosen from the access door at the bottom of the dryer. You can test the fuse from that location but it's more difficult to replace it without taking the entire dryer apart, which is what I ultimately did. Once the drum is out the fuse is very accessible. However, if you need to make this repair, try replacing the fuse from the lower panel (and avoid the time/effort in removing the drum). You might be able to use a 1/4" open-end wrench (or pliers) to loosen the sheet metal screws. I only had a standard ratchet set which is too big to fit into that tight space. Either way, it's not a complicated repair...watch the installation video - it's not exact but it's close enough to guide you through this.

The dryer was spinning, but the display said "sensing" for the whole cycle, and there was no heat. We took off the front of the dryer and the fuse was below the drum. This was an easy swap out, but it didn't fix the dryer. Then we ordered a thermistor, which also was an easy swap out but didn't fix the dryer. Last, we bought an ohm meter and tested the heating element, and discovered it did not have continuity. I had already ordered the heating element, as that was the next item to check on the list. The element was much harder to replace, because you have to take off the drum.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!

It was easy just take off the bottom panel and then unplug the wires to the element and pull it out

As in the video: inserted putty knife behind catch lip above and below the catch. Video shows only doing on top or bottom, but need to do both and then pry out while pushing towards the center of the catch up and down. Not as easy coming out as in the video. Putting new catch in was easy...just slide into hole.

Followed standard instructions regarding removal of top first & then the front panels. Realized after following this process that I did not have to remove top, but only one of front panels to obtain access to moisture sensor. If I have to do this again, the replacement of sensor will be much easier.

I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.

The first thing I did was to watch the video from Part select on How to change thermostat cut off switch and the high limit thermostat fuse.I did not have a meter reader I just brought the thermostat cut off kit for about $ 32.00 dollars from part select and replace both part's and my dryer still was not getting hot so back to part select video's I looked up the video on replacing the heater element and I ordered one for about $ 97.00 with shipping I replaced it and put it back together and it worked it took just a few hours . I would like to give Avery special thank to part select for the video help and for having the parts for a great price again thank you so much.

Popped the old catch out (but was not as easy to get out as described) but did pop back in very easily! The video was a great help!