11060172002 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I replaced both the Thermal fuse and Cycling Thermostat, both of which cost less than fourty dollars. just removed the back panel, and replaced the parts in less tham a minute. Replaced the back panel. Job done.

I tested heating coil and it was good so I replaced sensors and now works like new again. And while I was at it I cleaned out my dryer vent.

My wife hates me because I keep repairing our appliances. The dryer and washing machine are now 21 years old and look like new. To replace these two parts, first check if the igniter is glowing at all when you turn the dryer on. To do this remove the access panel in front on the bottom. To remove it, slide a flat screw driver across the slot onto of the panel to locate the release clips. Depress the release clamps by sliding the screw driver on top and pull the panel forward. Now start the machine and see if the igniter glows. If not proceed to replace the Thermal Fuse and both thermostats. To do so, open the back panel of the unit. First disconnect power and vent. Unscrew and replace components which will be easily seen on the bulk head. Use a pliers to remove the contacts. Your machine will now last another twenty years and your wife will hate you as does mine:)

Took the back cover off. Replaced fuse and put the cover back on. Worked great.

Replacing the cycling thermostat went really fast and easy. Unplug the dryer. Remove the 6-8 hex-head screws holding the back panel in place. The thermostat location is in the lower left. below the black discharge air duct. Note the location and/or tag the wires connected to it. Pull off the wires and remove the screw holding the thermostat in place and remove it. Reverse the procedure for installation of the new thermostat. Where this got tricky was it did not solve the problem. A strict diagnosis based on the electrical schematic alone would have, and did, indicate a faulty thermostat, i.e. on that was not opening. However, what I found was surprising. The heating element coil had broken and part of it had "welded" to the casing, grounding it and effectively turning the 240V heater into a 120V heater. This allowed the heater to provide heat (low heat). However, the timer motor needs 240V to operate and since one leg of the heater was grounded the timer could not get 240V when the thermostat cycled off. Replacing the heating element solved the problem.

I ordered the Thermal Fuse, as it appeared to be the problem. A friend suggested that as long as the price was fairly reasonable, I should go ahead and get two of them and keep one for later. I ordered/paid for two of them. I put the Thermal Fuse in, and when I attempted to turn the dryer on, it ran for about 5 minutes, at a very hot heat, dried the towels, and then would not come on again. I thought it had kicked the circuit breaker, but after checking, found it hadn't. I watched the youtubes.com again and found that there were three other parts that it could possibly be. I ordered them, and replaced all of them. One of them had 4 prongs but two on the new one. I left two wires off, and sure enough, it would not run. I borrowed an ohm meter, and found out my old part was still good, but that in the process it had blown the Thermal Fuse, of which I just happened to have an extra, and after installing it, it is now in perfect running order. The total repair was about $80-100, rather than a $75.00 bill for service and heaven only knows for the parts at the repairman's price! Thanks youtube, Parts Select and my friend for his advice! Walter

After removing the back, I realized I absolutely did not know what I was doing. I went to google put in my model number, and went to your web page. The rest is history. Went to the video watched it and went back to the dryer and after cleaning up the back, put it back and removed the top and front as per video. The parts came in a few days and replaced the belt and idler arm n about 2 min. I am not kidding. The wife held the drum while I put the front back on. One thing I could not separate the door switch so I just unscrewed it from the fron panel. The dryeris 20 years old, and your web page will put the Maytag repairman on the unemployment line.

Watched the repair video once, it was real informative and easy to follow. The repair took about 30 minutes to complete. The video went step by step. Had no problems what so ever. Made the reapir and turned the dryer on and let it run for a few minutes and once again had all the heat I needed to make it operate correctley. I recomend that once you see your dryer is not dring your clothes like it once did, replace these parts. I let this go on for a year thinking my wife was putting way to many clothes in the dryer. It was not that at all. No telling how much money we could have saved on our electric bill by replacing these parts sooner. $30 dollars for the parts, I bet we spent that much a week on extra drying cycles. What used to take 2-3 cycles to dry now only takes one cycle. Runs just like it did when we purchased it.I will buy from this site again, easy to use all the information you need to make the repair and prompt shipping. Awesome site.

I followed the instructions on the Part Select website for drum support rollers and shaft. The videos were great! (There wasn't one for the right side shaft but I could extrapolate from the other instructions.) The hardest part for me was releasing the dryer top - the video made it look so easy but it took me a long time to get the little clips to release with the putty knife. Also, tightening the new right side shaft required the help of another person as my arms are not long enough to hold the shaft with pliers while I tightened the nut in the back of the dryer (and I did have to remove the back cover for this shaft). I would recommend to anyone even a little bit handy to attempt a repair following part select's videos.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

Unplugged power cord, removed back cover, checked heating element and all the thermostats. Found one with no continuity and replaced it.

I repaired this dryer after I did a little research online to learn about the thermal fuse. I took the back off the dryer and used the Fluke meter to test the thermal fuse for continuity. There wasn't any. I left the dryer disassembled and ordered the part. It arrived two days later. I installed it and reassembled the dryer in just a few minutes. It was a pretty simple repair.

The PartsSelect video was great. I'm not sure I would have figured out the trick for opening up this dryer without it. After that the main problem was getting goop off of the drum support roller spindles. This took lots of solvent and elbow grease. I think this was the main source of noise. The oil had turned to something like partly dried glue. They were very hard to turn. The belt was intact but badly cracked. The idler probably could have been oiled and reused but I already had the part so I replaced it. Everything went just like the video. The dryer now hums along like a new one!

Unplugged dryer, removed 2 screws under filter lid, removed filter, removed access panel on back of machine, removed blower motor housing, vacuumed all dust and debris from rear of dryer, turned dryer around and opened top of dryer using a small screwdriver to release the clips approximately 2" from either end, then securing top from falling by using bailing wire to hold it in place, disconnected door switch wiring harness, removed 2- 5/16 screws retaining front panel and removed front panel from dryer, removed drum from dryer, removed idler pulley from bottom of cabinet noting position of drum belt, vacuumed dust and debris from bottom of cabinet and around old motor, removed motor retaining clips rotated motor and removed wiring harness from motor. I then attempted to remove the blower wheel from the old motor and here is where the problem began. If your dryer has the original motor in it, or the motor has never been changed in it to the best of your knowledge, go ahead and order a new blower wheel with your other parts, because you will not get the old one off without destroying it. (this cost me several days to complete the repair). Do not use channel locks or vice grips to attach to the front pulley to remove or install the blower wheel... use 2 medium sized crescent (adjustable) wrenches otherwise the pulley will be damaged and you will have a lot of filing to do to repair it. (If you need to reuse the pulley. I did not as my motor and pulley was an exact replacement). I got the blower wheel off of the old motor by using a chisel and a hammer and cutting a hole around the attachment point on the motor shaft from the rear of the dryer. After this, the job was pretty easy. I put the new motor in the motor housing, put a crescent wrench on the pulley on the front of the new motor, then screwed the new blower wheel onto the motor from the back of the dryer. (remember, the blower wheel has left handed threads, so to install it you have to turn the pulley on the motor to the LEFT to thread it into the wheel.) After the blower wheel is installed and hand tight, use 2 crescent wrenches to tighten down on motor, (1 on the blower wheel hub where it is square, and 1 on the front pulley) rotate the motor down to the correct position for the wiring loom, (you want the wires to rest on the bottom of the cabinet when the job is complete)., then reinstall the motor retaining clips and attach wiring harness. At this point I installed new drum rollers, reinstalled the drum with a new drum belt, and replaced the idler pulley with a new one. (push the drum counter clockwise by hand a few times to center the drum belt and to make sure that the drum is on the drum rollers correctly). The front panel is now reinstalled being careful to make sure the clips on the cabinet engage the holes in the panel. Push back on the drum slightly and reinstall the 2- 5/16 screws to hold the front panel to the cabinet, then reattach the wiring harness for the door switch. Remove the bailing wire and close the lid. The blower wheel housing is then reinstalled, then reinstall the rear access panel. Reinstall the filter and the 2 screws under the filter lid. Plug in the dryer and your repair is complete. When a motor replacement is required, you are better off replacing the motor, blower wheel, drum rollers, drum belt, and idler pulley. I did and my dryer sounds and performs like a new one. My wife is absolutely delighted. I spent approximately $180.00 on the total repair while a new dryer would have cost me $600.00 + tax.

I actually found the repair to be quite easy. This dryer along with the washer are basic models and over 15 years old. I have replaced just about every part on these machines. The more "basic" the model; without all the bells and whistles and electronics, the easier they are to repair yourself. I used a YouTube video for this particular model for the repair. All the items you sent arrived in superb condition and delivered in just a couple of days! Absolutely fantastic and professional service bar-none! I would highly recommend your site to anyone looking for 1st rate products and unbelievable speedy service. I will be using you again for any and all repairs for my appliances. Thank you very much for the outstanding customer service. Kindest Regards, Bruce