11045862400 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed bellow clamp (used screwdriver to pry clamp open). Removed Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp with socket set. Removed Bellow. I had purchased new clamps as I didn't know condition of the old clamps. The Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp was in good condition, appeared to have an anodized finish - was not corroded and the tightening screw pointed forward where as the new clamp appeared to be galvanized and the tightening screw paralled the clamp. I assumed the new orientation of the tightening screw was to make it easier to tighten with a screwdriver, but space is limited and I had good success removing the old clamp with a socket set so I elected to reuse the old clamp. Plus, I liked the finish of the old clamp better - it had zero corrosion on it after several years, almost a decade, of use.
Reinstalling the bellow was the hardest part of the repair - it is just tedious and patience is required - I took a couple of breaks seating the Bellow to the outer tub. There was a tab on the Bellow which went to the top to insure the Bellow was properly aligned. After I seated the bead of the Bellow all the way around, I slipped the Bellow to Outer Tub Clamp over the Bellow and tightened it down - continually checking the seating of the Bellow. I then put the Bellow over the water inlet tube and seated the outer portion of the Bellow. I needed additional hands to help hold the outer clamp in place - my wife helped - and I used pliers and plastic pry wedges from a tire patch repair kit to pull it open and slip it over the Bellow - I didn't want to use screwdrives as I was afraid I would damage the Bellow.

Turn off both hot an cold water supply valves. Unscrew both hot and cold supply hoses from rear of washer making note of which inlet they came off of. Pull washer out to access screws to remove top cover and water inlet valve. Remove top cover unscrewing 3 torx screws on the rear of the washer. Unplug the 4 wires wires from water inlet valve - make sure you remember which pairs go to which solenoid. Remove 1 phillips head screw that secures the water inlet valve to the back of the washer. Remove water inlet valve. With a pair of pliers loosen the hose clamp and remove the hose from the inlet valve. Take the new water inlet valve and loosen hose clamp with pliers and push the hose onto the barbed fitting as far as it will go. Make sure hose clamp is over barbed fitting securing the hose. Attach both pairs of wires to the solenoids in the same position that you removed them. Position water inlet valve into place and secure with phillips screw. The part that I received did not quite line up with the hole on the rear of my washer so I had to elongate the existing hole on the rear of the washer with a drill so I could secure the water inlet valve as designed. Screw on both water supply lines making sure the hot and cold are screwed back on to the right inlets. Turn both water supply valves on and test looking for leaks. Secure the top cover back on with the 3 torx screws and push washer back into place. Viola! Ready for the next load of wash.

Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

The Part Select website has some great information provided by customers. I search my error code problem that shut down the washer when filling and found the most likely scenario was a faulty flowmeter.
The other problem happening at the same time was the drum filling with water when the appliance was not in use. I thought the two problems were related, but upon further research decided that the most likely cause was a faulty water inlet valve.
I order the parts from Part Select and I could not believe how fast the shipping was. I just ordered regular ground but the parts got here in a couple of days.
The repair was easy. Remove four screws (need a star bit) from the top lid of the washer and remove the cover. The flowmeter and the water inlet valve sit right on top of the washer. Even with the lousy set of pliers I used, removing the clamps and disconnecting the hoses on both parts was easy off and easy back on. I had more trouble with the electrical leads on the water inlet, only because they were on so securely and I didn't want to rip out the wiring.
All together the repair for both parts took about 30 minutes.
Make sure you turn off the water supply and be ready to mop up a little excess water from the water supply lines when you disconnect them from the washer's water inlet valve.

1st I removed the front retaining ring. You do need to get down near the ground to see the retaining ring. I used two pairs of needle nosed pliers to pull the ring apart (which has a spring in the middle) and then removed the ring.

Then I pushed the bellows into the washing machine drum, pulled the water inlet valve from the bellows, and used a short flat blade screwdriver to remove the retaining band (upper right of the bellows) After doing this it was a simple matter to remove the whole unit.

I did find it was easier to remove the washing machine door.

The installation was a simple matter of reversing the above. I had no problems with this repair. I would STRONGLY suggest, unless you are one of those gifted 3 handed people, getting an assistant to push the outer retaining ring into place as you separate the spring.

Simple, easy repair.

Had to take the entire front of the washer off to replace the door latch.

This repair involved basically completely disassembling the washer. I found a reasonably usable set of step-by-step directions that got me most of the way through the process. Where there were gaps or steps missing, I was able to improvise.

The problem with my washer was that the bearings for the inner tub were shot. The only way to repair this problem is by replacing the rear outer tub. This is because the bearings and the water seal are pressed in place on the rear outer tub assembly and cannot be removed and replaced separately. It makes for a very expensive part.

Here are the steps I found elsewhere on the PartSelect forum:

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Remove the washer top.

Disconnect the touch pad/led assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the central control unit and release if from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out to the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.

Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer and remove the console. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.

Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward and then off the perimeter of the boot.

Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front.

The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws. Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer, and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

Remove th detergent dispenser assembly.

Separate the water inlet and window washer tube from the boot.

Pull the water inlet tube from the outlet connector of the detergent dispenser.

When reinstalling the water inlet tube, wet the water inlet gasket on the detergent dispenser with water only. Do Not Use any other lubricant.

Remove the screw securing the front of the detergent dispenser assemble to the top front frame.

Disconnect the vent tube from the detergent dispenser assembly.

Remove the screw securing the detergent dispenser assembly to the top left frame member.

Slide the assembly back sightly and lift the assembly out.

To remove the detergent dispenser motor assembly, disconnect the cam follower spring and lift the cam follower from the diverter locate the diverter cam clockwise to access the motor mounting screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the heating element.

There are three concrete weights attached to the tub assembly. All three must be removed for safe removal of the tub assembly.

Access to the weight on the top front of the tub requires removing the six screws securing the top front frame member from the washer and removing the frame member.

Access to the weight on the top back of the tub requires removing the two screws securing the upper transport brace to the washer and removing the brace.

Each weight is secured to the tub by three bolts.

Remove the three bolts and lift the weight from the tub.

Remove the flat nuts from the tub for safekeeping.

At the back of the tub assembly, remove the belt.

To remove the pulley from the basket, Place the handle of a crescent wrench through the pulley and into the steel bearing hub to keep the pulley from turning.

Use a socket wrench to remove the nut securing the pulley to the basket.

Disconnect the ground wire from the bearing hub.

Remove the screw securing the left end of the pressure tube connector tot

Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.

I found a you tube video with step by step instructions. Very easy to follow. Repair would have been quicker had my kids not been at home. I had to have my boyfriend help me put on the outer bellow spring clamp, as I was not strong enough. Washer works great.

Removed back panel,unscrewed the nut on the pulley.Removed pulley and belt. Reassembled.

Peel rubber gasket from drum; remove 3 screws using phillip head screwdriver; disconnect wiring e plugs; remove door lock. Install in reverse order.

removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.

First I took the top, front, and back off of the washer. There were about a gazillion wires and tubes so I went slow and took pictures. I had to get the old tub out so that I could replace its back half. The new outer tub contained the replacement bearing. Taking the tub out took about two hours because I went slow so that I could document the process. Once the tub was out, I split the tub in half and found a real mess of a bearing. I couldn't get the old bearing race off of the shaft, so I went to the store to get some sand paper. With sand paper I was able to smooth the shaft down enough to get the old race off. The inner tub and the outer rear tub went together pretty easy with a couple swats with a hammer. Putting the clips back on was a trick. My oldest son figured it out. This was actually a family event. I am the father of ten children so you can imagine how important a washing machine is. After another couple of hours, we had all of the wires attached and the hoses hooked up. There is a metal band that holds the plastic shroud in the front to the outer tub. It took my daughter-in-laws long piano fingers to get that put on right. When we had it working finally, the bottom drain hose was leaking. The little clamp that came with the machine wasn't doing its job. Then the metal band came back off. Well, I went back to the store and bought a 10 inch metal band clamp for the bottom hose. That did the trick. I tightened the big band real tight and everything is wonderful. My wife is happy again! No more trips to wash clothes! I saved some money and some time and it wasn't that bad.

door hook strike was broken half broke in the door the other half stayed in the lock i removed the one pcs from washer with pliers and on the door with a star wrench

twisted old shock absorbers out and snapped new one inplace...did not really fix my problem though