11042926200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Removed the top of the washer by removing 3 screws on the back and sliding the top back and up. Removed the power cord and pipes. Next removed a screw holding the valve in place. Labeled the wires and pulled them off. The hard part was moving the locking tube ring further back on the tube before pulling the inlet tube off the valve. Reattach the black inlet tube and locking ring. I had to keep working it before it was in the right place. Some have mentioned that the hole didn't line up when they installed the valve. It turns out that there is a small slot in the plastic threaded tubes. One needs to wiggle the valve until the sheet metal rear wall fits in. Then the valve can be slid into position. Attach the mounting screw, hoses, top, power cord and try it out.

Baffle just snapped into place. . . . . So easy!

I unscrewed the three small sheet-metal screws holding the washer top to the frame and slid the top aft and laid it on the floor. Then I took fine sandpaper and cleaned the plug contacts from the various components connected to the main control board. After five years or so I have found that most copper connectors will corrode and prevent electricity from flowing properly. That did not correct the problem. I checked the flow control device and it appeared clear and not binding. Then I pulled the drain pump filter and it was clear. I could hear the water pump running and the water flowing out the normal rubber hose. But the washer would stop three or four times during a wash cycle. Pressing 'RESET" and "START" would start the washer again. At the end of the cycle my wife noticed there was water in the washer tub. It had to come in via the water control valve. This is the valve you screw the hot and cold water hose into. It is a ice blue color and held in by one screw. I unscrewed the two hoses and removed the one screw. Then I had to slip the black supply hose from the valve leading to the flow meter. I disconnected the four electrical connectors and installed the new valve and found the screw hole did not align with the screw hole in the washer frame. I used a eighth-inch metal drill and drilled a new hole which lengthened the slot that the mounting screw normally went through. After I re-connected the hot and cold water lines to the valve I turned the water back on and put the top back on the washer. The washer worked like new. No stops. I did notice before changing the valve the water would flow into the washer tub like beer coming from a tap. After installing the new valve the water flowed in at three times the rate like a garden hose.

I opened the top by taking four screws from the back and lifted the top. The part to be replaced was clearly in view. I opened the clamps on the hoses, pulled the hoses off, removed the wires, and reversed the process with the new part. The washer works great now! I ordered the part on a Friday, and it was delivered the next day, even though I didn't pay for overnight!

Replaced water valve new valve had different electrical connections so I had to replace the connectors job took about 20 minutes. Washer is now operating correct

shut off water valves, took out 3 torx screws that hold the top on, slid then top back just a bit and removed, took the hoses off, took the screw out that holds the water valve and lifted the valve up to remove the wires and hose. Put the wires and hose on the new valve and re-installed, connected the hoses and checked for leaks, put the top on called it a day.

Take the spring hoop on the front of the bellow. Take the dinner bellow ring off. And reverse process

removed three screens on lower front panel removed hoses from pump after opening drain/filter to remove water slid pump forward and out unplugged pump wiring harness reverse to install

Took the front panel below tub and above pedestal off washer. Removed pump and found coins in the strainer. Removed them thinking they may be causing the problem. Put everything back together and tried again. Washer still wouldn't drain. Unplugged it and ordered a new pump. Installed pump after removing the plug and draining water from washer. Replaced pump with new one and washer works like new.

(1) Turn off water valves (2) remove water lines (3) remove three metric star screws from top/back of washer (4) remove to plate (5) remove single screw retaining water inlet valve at back of washer (6) remove electrical connections from water inlet valve and flow meter (7) loosen hose clamps at back of soap dispenser (8) remove assembly/apply new parts (9) reverse above directions. Because the plastic nipple at the back of the soap dispenser was brittle, it partially broke on me. I applied urethane glue to the break and let it dry overnight. Next day I applied marine-grade silicone sealant around the break area. That evening I assembled and then used the washer to test for leaks. Success!

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I replaced the flow meter but that want it, so replaced the water inlet valve and that cured what ailed it. The only pain was that the single screw that holds the part to the washer is a torx rather than a nut like the rest of the back screws. Couldn't see it without pulling the washer all the way out. Hose clamp came off with pliers and the electrical connectors were TIGHT but came off with some effort. Replaced everything and error cleared ok.

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

I followed the online videos and did the install in about 10 minutes. I did not need to drill a new hole for my particular model as others have needed. It was a basic take the old valve unit out and install the new one.

Unplug electric. Open door. Peel rubber bladder back from washer door seal enough to expose wire retension ring. Remove three screws that hold door latch. Remove latch. Remove three wire harnesses. With new latch, reattach wire harnesses. Insert latch. Secure to machine with the three screws. Refit door seal and secure with retension ring. Plug in electric. Done.