11042822200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Like most folks, my daughter has tossed the shipping bolts after her puechase, I moved her the first time w/o any thought to it but commercial movers won't do that, they will chg. you to have it done and it's not cheap, akin to an appliance repair. This kit contains all four bolts/spacers, (2) upper and (2) lower. Hard to tell from the decription but a sweet gal on the help desk assured me of it. Got it fast and got them installed in minutes, easy to do and wrote a big note on the back of the washer to save them!! No idea why your owners book says "do not reuse".

Take off 3 screws at back of top panel and remove. Remove screw to the left of the soap dispenser and push tab on the right inside the machine to remove control panel and lay the panel on top of the machine without disconnecting. Remove 3 screws on the bottom to remove the bottom panel. You have to pull a bit hard to get it off. Remove 3 screws to push through the door lattch and safety switch. Push the window washer nozzle head through the bellow along with the soap feed nozzle.Remove the retainer wire/spring from the bellow where it attaches to the middle panel/inlet. Remove two screws at the top of the middle panel and two screws on the bottom to remove the middle panel with door attached. Loosen the retainer strap ( a large hose clamp) which anchors the bellow to the tub. Remove the plastic nozzle from the window wash hose and mount it in the new bellow. I couldn't get the plastic retainer washer off the nozzle but managed to seat the bello between the washer and the nozzle anyway. Connect the hoze to the nozzle making sure it's pointed in the correct direction. Pull the oblong soap dispenser nozzle into the corresponding bello opening. Seat the bellow around the internal tub opening and place the large hose type clamp, after unthreading it, around the bellow and tighten. Install the middle panel and attach the door latch and safety switch. Now seat the front part of the bellow to the middle panel and attach the retainer hoop/spring. This is a little tricky. I moistened the front rim of the bellow so the hoop would slide over the edge better. You have to stretch the spring to get it to seat properly. Having experience changing bicycle tires helps. Then install the control panel and other panels.

The Part Select website has some great information provided by customers. I search my error code problem that shut down the washer when filling and found the most likely scenario was a faulty flowmeter.
The other problem happening at the same time was the drum filling with water when the appliance was not in use. I thought the two problems were related, but upon further research decided that the most likely cause was a faulty water inlet valve.
I order the parts from Part Select and I could not believe how fast the shipping was. I just ordered regular ground but the parts got here in a couple of days.
The repair was easy. Remove four screws (need a star bit) from the top lid of the washer and remove the cover. The flowmeter and the water inlet valve sit right on top of the washer. Even with the lousy set of pliers I used, removing the clamps and disconnecting the hoses on both parts was easy off and easy back on. I had more trouble with the electrical leads on the water inlet, only because they were on so securely and I didn't want to rip out the wiring.
All together the repair for both parts took about 30 minutes.
Make sure you turn off the water supply and be ready to mop up a little excess water from the water supply lines when you disconnect them from the washer's water inlet valve.

Had to take the entire front of the washer off to replace the door latch.

Remove the lower front cover there are three small torx type screw. The pump is the very first thing you see. Have a wet and dry Vac available you will need it. The drain pump and the drain lines contain a lot of water. Unscrew the big white drain plug at the pump and clean up the water, remove the front small mounting screw and disconnect the two hoses in the back of the pump with pliers and follow the pre-printed steps in reverse. If your machine is more than six years old you will have to use a utility knife and remove a piece of plastic on the electrical connector that is from the washer wiring, if you force the connection on it will brake, look at the connection and the plug and attempt to plug it in before you install the pump. It is easy just be-aware of the connector.

Removed back panel,unscrewed the nut on the pulley.Removed pulley and belt. Reassembled.

Peel rubber gasket from drum; remove 3 screws using phillip head screwdriver; disconnect wiring e plugs; remove door lock. Install in reverse order.

removed screws on front control panel. found info sheet. read that this part was correct. replaced the motor control unit tho saw no damage on old unit and it works fine now.

door hook strike was broken half broke in the door the other half stayed in the lock i removed the one pcs from washer with pliers and on the door with a star wrench

twisted old shock absorbers out and snapped new one inplace...did not really fix my problem though

1-Unplug washer
2-Remove the bottom of the front washer cover 3 screws
3-Locate pump and loosen pump drain cover turn to left just a little enough for water to start draining.
4- Suck-up water with wet/ dry vac. Remove 1 screw holding pump.
5- Flip pump electrical cover up and disconnect wiring from pump.
6- Remove 2 hose clamps. The outlet was not to hard to remove, but the intake was not easy to get the pliers on.
7- Install new pump. See instruction to install. I didn't have to remove any ribs to install the connector as in the instruction sheet that came with the new pump. Also I didn't think it was very clear instruction.
8- Last installing the spring clamps. The outlet went okay, but the inlet I never could get on. I could not get the pliers on the clamp. I fooled around at least 20 min. trying to get the clamp on. I went out and bought a 3/4 to 1 3/4 stainless hose clamp with the worm drive design. That is what took so long.You may want to get new hose clamps before starting.
Other wise I did okay.

1) Removed back of washer
2) Removed nut holding pulley
3) Pulled pulley off shaft
4) Put new pulley on shaft
5) Replaced and tightened nut
6) Replaced belt on pulley
7) Replaced back panel
7) Washed pile of laundry

Very simple repair:
- Turn off water and detach water supply hoses. (Good to have a bucket nearby to catch water left in hoses.)
- Remove 3 screws from the back of the lid; slide lid back 1" and lift off.
- Valve is mounted just under the lid on the back wall of the washer -- remove 1 screw from back of washer that holds valve assembly in place.
- Remove the 4 electrical connectors (2 black & 2 white) I numbered them with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget how to reattach them. :-)
- Use pliers to squeeze & slide the little hose clamp that holds the internal hose on the valve assembly. Once the clamp is out of the way, pull the hose off the valve assembly.
- Reverse the process to install the new valve assembly.

I ran into a little problem mounting the new valve assembly. The screw hole in the back of the washer did not line up with the mounting hole in the valve assembly. I had to drill a 3/16" hole just to the right of the original screw hole on the back of the washer. Used the new hole to mount the valve assembly, done.

remove 3 screws of top panel at rear. slide top to rear 1/2 inch and lift up. disconnect wire to flometer, remove clamps on hoses and remove, reverse to install. did not fix problem. ck'd screens at fill valves. ordered new fill valves--problem solved. solenoids must not have been opening up all the way.

Somehow a bobby pin got into the drain pump housing. When it started to drain, the pin was rammed through the housing.Extremely easy to remove and replace. No special skills needed. Whirlpool did a good job in making it idiot proof. Unpacking the part took longer than installing it. Don't be afraid to do this repair. If you own a pair of pliers and a screwdriver,you can do it.