11016101690 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

removed two screws at the base of the control panel front, tilted that back, Squeezed front right to left back to pop one side of the lid, squeezed front left to right back to pop the other side of the lid, lifted away so as to unclip the old wire harness, removed old wire harness, replaced with the new harness, put everything back together. works great. any problems with any of the steps, check out youtubedotcom, lots of free videos to help along the way.

Watched the video on your website and determined I could easily do the repair. Replaced the part for less than $20.00 including shipping and received it the next day. I ordered the part @ approximately 5 PM and the projected delivery was 1.8 days. To my delight the FedEx truck arrived by 1 PM the very next day and we were up and running within 24 hours of ordering the Direct Drive Motor Coupling. I will definitely use your services again. Special thanks to your video team. I was able to watch step by step how to disassemble and reassemble the washer etc.

I goodgled the make and model of the washing machine and parts select said the solution was to replace the water pump. After watching the viedo my husband and I were convinced this would solve our problem. Instillation was very easy. The toughest part of the project was squaring the frame so we could put the back piece back on. Problem solved, no more water on the floor!

After removing the front, sides and top of the machine (all one piece) the springs were relativley easy to access. I discover one of the brakets that held one of the springs had rusted and would no longer support the spring. I then replaced the bracket and springs. I Re-assyembled the machine and it work as good as new.

This is the first time I've ever fixed anything. I had no idea what I was doing but like the rest of you I decided to man up and get er done myself! I also didn't want to spend 200-300 bucks on a repair guy. So using this site and google. I figured out how to remove the back plate of my washer so I could correctly diagnose the problem...in fact I didnt' even have too remove the back plate to diagnose it because when I started to move the washer I found several broken plastic triangular pieces and a round rubber piece with 6 triangular holes in it. On one of the broken pieces was a serial number of some sort. So I googled what i found and matched what i found on underneath my machine with a part i found on this website which turned out to be the direct drive motor coupling...i figured i was in for a rough battle with the machine but it actually turned out to be pretty easy...in fact it would've been easier had this machine not been serviced before in the past...(i'll get to that later) first step was to remove the back plate...using youtube i figured out how to remove the metal clamps that hold the cabinet to the back plate (you will need a flat head screw driver). Rest was elementary it took me about 2 minutes to remove the back plate after spending probably 30 minutes of research online (i like to make sure i'm doing everything correctly so i watch several videos and do a ton of reading before i mess with anything)*also a side note make sure you unplug the machine before you do anything! Also turn off the water and remove the draining tubes from the back of the machine because you will need to tilt the whole thing on its back failure to do this will result in a watery mess and u could kink the drain tube which will lengthen your repair time like it did with me. Also remove the hot and cold water tubes from teh back...remember that the hot water is always on the bottom memorize where you put the tubes...u can always check which is which by turning the water back on but it will save you sometime* once i got the back plate off i tilted the machine on its back so i could get to the motor and the water pump...there are 2 metal clamps that hold the water pump to the motor. All it takes is a flat head screw driver to remove these clamps once you get the 2 clamps off you can lift the water pump right off the motor its really easy. This exposes the motor which houses the direct drive motor coupling. I inspected what was left of the coupling and if there was any doubt that it was the motor coupling there wasn't anymore because it was clearly broken and the rubber piece that was supposed to sit between the 2 plastic things was gone. Needless to say it was a mess and i knew it was gonna be a challenge to remove the broken coupling. It was surprisingly easy to remove the coupling from the top of the motor compared to the middle of it. There are 2 more metal clamps that fasten the motor in place so it doesn't move around...there are 2 screws that hold these clamps in place. I removed one of them with no problem but the other one was stripped extremely bad i was completely unable to remove it. If you are in this bad boat like i was in i have a solution for you...you only need to remove one screw if you can grab the motor and rotate it enough u can remove the clamp from the metal plate without ever having to remove the clamp at all...its a little difficult and you will have to use a bit of elbow grease to do it but it can be done. Once i achieved this it was a lot easier to access the broken coupling from the middle of the motor. I took the back end of a hammer and evenly jiggled the coupling loose until it popped off...it took a solid 10 minutes tho since the coupling had shattered so bad there wasn't much for the hammer to hold onto. Once i did this i was able to get the new pieces in place...it was a little tricky to line things up correctly but after awhile i was able to get it to fit perfectly...I put the machine back

I have had this similar problem with other makes/models of washers so I knew immediately what the problem was. The hardest part was figuring out how the back panel seperated from the front. I wanted the part in-hand before looking on-line. Once I had the Inlet/Mixing valve in-hand and found this website, the ordering was quick and inexpensive. I only wish I would have been able to view the video beforehand to see how the back panel came loose. I would've cut my repair time in half.

I did like the video said about the removal of the control pnl. Now removal of the of the top and front cover was a bit more of a learn as you go to remove all the hoses that go to the fabrix sofner, bleach, and detergent compartments. It was done with the aid of a pair of pliers. There was 4 lines in the top at the back left that has to be removed to finish the cover removal! Now after that it was easy. the rest was like the video. Motor and pump removal simple. I would remember to inspect the inside of the pump to remove any trash that might get wrapped on the impeller.less than hour start to finish and it was a cheap fox and better than buying a new washer!

I watched the video and it was quite easy to understand and it went very smoothly.

The old one was easy to take off once I figured out how to get the back of the washer off. Then, the new one was on in just a few minutes and the washer is washing fine.

Unplugged the machine and turned off the water, (hot and cold), removed hoses from valve. Removed two screws holding console to top. Removed screws in rear holding rear panel to cabinet. Pulled cabinet out of the way. Disconnected electrical leads from valve solenoids. Used nut driver to remove screws removed valve and mounting plate from the back of machine. Pliers compressed snap ring holding fill tube to valve. I reversed the procedure to reassemble. Most difficult part was getting the cabinet back in it's place. Washer fills like it is brand new!

I took out the old inlet valve and put the new one in. It was easy

Removed the top part of the electronic panel. Removed the top lid. Removed the old tub springs and replaced them with new ones. Works great and for only $20.00. It beats buying a new washer. Thanks!

It was my Mothers washer & did find out the Direct drive Motor Coupling was a little warn & replaced not to hard but took more time to get top off because you have to really get under the top off hood & clips where really in there the vidio showed held on with screws & on this Kenmoore Elite the Clips are under the Hood which does make it alittle bit harder so you have to be careful not to bend up the Hood where all your controls are , But did not solve the issue. Looked at lid switch & it was damaged so now going to Replace it. If this was my machine probably would be a bit easier to have seen it is the Lid switch hopefully this next part will fix the problem.

I noticed a leak on the floor. I check the hoses for tightness on the back of the washer and the hoses going to the facets and drain. After disconnecting the hoses going to the washer, facet and drain, I then flip the washer on it's back and examined the underside for wetness. All the underside hoses appeared to be not leaking. I then disconnected the two hoses going to the pump with channel-locks, and I disconnect the two clips holding the pump with just my hand and removed the water pump. I then poured water into the hoses' opening on the water pump itself, and I discovered a slow leak occurring from the shaft area on the water pump. I searched PartSelect and luckily found a water pump that matched. I then installed the new water pump (after receiving it a few days later) in reversed procedures of disconnecting the old water pump. I tested the washer by adding a little bit of water into the washer then switch the dial to spin cycle in order to empty the water inside the washer--no leaks occurred and I was extremely happy.

Unplugged the machine, removed the rear panel and then removed the old water inlet valves. Replaced the water valves with the new one purchased through Parts Select. Installed the back panel on the machine, plugged the machine in and reconnected both the hot and cold water hoses. Tested machine works like a new one again, problem resolved.