108RB646H General Electric Range - Instructions

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

First I turned the circuit breaker switch off for the stove unit. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I attached the new element, bolting the wires into place and then screwed the element back into place on the back wall of the oven. I flipped the breaker switch back on, and turned on the oven. I was done in roughly 15 minutes. The most difficult part was having to shine a flash light into the oven to replace the part, and negotiating the hard cold kitchen floor.

I first removed the two screws holding the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 2 or 3 inches and then took out the 2 small screws holding the 2 wires in place. I then removed the old element and discarded it and installed the new one in the reverse order that I took out the old one. It was quite easy to do, only took about 10 to 15 minutes total time.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

The oven is 70 years old and used several times a week so getting it to come apart wasn't working.
Used a light oil and some thinner to work loose the old seal, which was stuck pretty good, removed it by lightly prying the seal lip wider and pulling it out, mostly piece by piece. The worked in the new one and became of the light oil, it went in rather easy. Had to trim an inch or so from each end and wiped down and cleaned up. No more problems....

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

Simply took the replacement part ( PS244040, GE WB30X341) and did the quick direct swap using all the new pieces in the burner kit. UNPLUG the stove. Undo the titl arm screw, remove the plastic wire isolation block (2 spring clips), unscrew the 3 wires to the elements, screw the 3 wires to the new element, put in new bakelite wire isolation block with spring clips to keep the wires seperated, mount and titghten the tilt arm screw. Make sure the burner sits even and flat in the stove top. Plug the stove back in and test.

Replace part an wires

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...)

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.