10686294140 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Took off the back panel of the dryer. Removed the screw holding the drying element in only to discover it would not fit out the bottom of the case holding it because it was too close to the bottom of the dryer. Had to take off the top of the dryer and remove the casing, remove the element, replace it and put the casing back. Not too difficult, only two wires and one screw. Did make a couple of rookie mistakes making me backtrack and redo a few things but nothing major.

Removed top, removed front, laid dryer on back to keep drum in place and replaced belt. Used masking to hold new belt in place while installing. Easy job. Belt was delivered in 2 days. Thanks

We followed instructions in videos from this site and youtube. The repair went smoothly and dryer works great now.

I watched the video on this site and it went exactly as described, fixed it and it sounds like a new dryer. Was going to junk it, glad I didn't!

I won't tell you how we did it, but I'll tell you the right way. Unplug. Remove the exhaust tubing attached to back of dryer. Pry the top up from the front and lean it against the wall. Un plug the wires attached to the front panel (remember where they go) Remove screws at top sides of front panel. "lift up" and remove. Close top. Lay machine on its back. We used a couple of 2x4's to lay it on so as not to crush the vest collar. Clean it out, including lint filter. The new belt wraps around the drum, you will see the channel about midway on drum. Feel behind the motor on the lower right side. There is a shaft with a channel for the belt. Immediately next to that is another pulley type arm with another channel for the belt. This arm moves stiffly and puts tension on the belt when installed correctly. Look at the diagram included with the new belt which shows the path of the belt. Wrap the belt, ridges against the drum and then around the motor shaft. At this point you have to physically pull the last arm out to allow the belt to wrap around the channel provided. If the belt is not twisted , the job is done. Turn the drum with your hands to make sure it is turning properly. Replace the front panel, plug in the electricals, replace the screws making sure the drum is properly centered. Stand up the dryer. Plug in and turn on dryer to make sure everything is right. Replace the exhaust tubing and set into place. Sounds like a lot of steps but I have described the whole process for you beginners. The rest of you will know already. Good Luck . Oh by the way we are 69 and 71. If we can do it, so can you

First, I want to thank everyone else who has submitted their stories and experiences. Basically, follow the YouTube video on how to take part the machine. Don't turn off the gas, but do unplug the electric plug. Vacuuum everything up. Wipe excess dirt off everything. Once open, take out the tensioner piece, and the two rubber wheels which hold the weight of the drum. Clean them out, and sand down the pin from which the two wheels came, and the inside of the wheels. Use a degreaser, or other cleaner to make them good as new. When reassembling them, oil it; I used one of those old fashioned motor oil cans, the little ones left over from grandpa. You know the kind. A few drops and spin the wheels. Clean up the excess and drips. Tear off what's left of the drum seal, clean it, sand it, use a chisel the scrape off the bumps, then sand some more. Wipe it clean. Put on the new seal per the instructions. The diagram that came with it is pretty good. Use clothes pins to pin it down as you put it on. Make sure it fits. Now add glue as you go around, take pins off, then put the, back on to keep it from moving. I used disposable gloves and a rolls of paper towels. It gets a bit messy, but it's ok as long as it's on the outside of the drum. After about 5 hours, I put it back together and let it spin on cool air only. If you don't hear any noise, you're done. One last thing: don't dro the screw down the link catch hole!

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.

Removed the broken actuator and replaced with the new one. The time to replace the dryer door switch actuator took about 5 minutes.By the way, I purchased the dryer in 1965 and it works as if it was brand new. Thank you Kenmore for a lifetime dryer.

Just as in the video. Sounds like new. Had to feel it to make sure it was running.

Removed the front cover of the dryer as well as the lint holder and framework to gain access to the thermal fuse which is behind it and mounted on the discharge side of lint fan. replaced fuse but the dryer still wouldn't heat each time the ignitor glowed. Also then replaced the solenoid (both of them) and this fixd the problem as it has been good for a week now. The solenoid issue is not easy to conclusively identify as an issue as it is inconsistent in operation.

two screws on filter housing and then lift dryer to up like the hood of a car the two screws on actuator, be careful not to drop actuator, if you do use a magnet to retrieve, two screws back in then wire clip top of dryer down and two screws back into filter housing and your ready to dry clothes, not recommended but if you have to dry clothes while waiting for part a clamp on the switch will allow you to use dryer, but be extremely careful because dryer will not turn off when door is opened

took the top and front off the dryer and had to route the new belt around the drum and through the pulleys, it was really easy and a heck of a lot cheaper then buying a new dryer

Called PartSelect, gave them the make and model number of the dryer and told them I needed a new belt for it. They gave me a price including shipment (under $20.00). I oreder the new belt and it arrived within a week. I also got an e-mail from PartSelect with a video showing how to replace the belt. This was very helpful. I was able to watch the video, take the dryer apart, replace the belt (after a few tries), and put the dryer back together. Problem solved! Thanks PartSelect.

Just like the video. Disconnect the lint shute. Pop the top lose. Disconnect the door switch. I actually took the hooks off an removed the entire lid. Took the two screws out and removed the front panel. (The OEM idler was a teflon half-moon so I think the abrasion was what caused the belt to fail.) Put the belt around the drum. Rolled the drum to check the seal overlap was proper. Installed the idler and wrapped the belt around the motor shaft. Put it back together. Would have been a little easier with a helper.